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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a video on one of the threads here on the Paulk Workbench. Seens very logical, easy to store, and could even be moved to different locations. Looks like the orig version 1 was made of 3/4, and the new versiion 2 is 1/2" ply. I was thinking of 1/2 on the top/bottom, and 3/4 for the seperators. The seperators are the parts that need the pocket screws. And, yes, O bought the plans. I don't mind paying a small price to save any possible headache. I don't know what the end weight is on these things, but I think the way I described the changes, I doubt it would be a problem. ??????????
 

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I think it will work well for you. The price difference between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch ply wa only $5 so I went with the 3/4. But I don't move mine around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ended up buying something thicker than 1/2, it measures about .56" I did not buy AC ply, acutally I don't know what it is, but seems solid. It's not going to be in the wet so I'm not concerned. But I did go with .71" (3/4) on sides etc. Just starting, ripped everything yesterday, and hopefully today I'll get cutting the cutouts.
 

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I think it looks like a great bench. The plans for 1/2 inch top have me wondering about cutting the dados for the t track and mitre slots. It doesn't seem there would be much left to support it compared to 3/4"
 

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I think it looks like a great bench. The plans for 1/2 inch top have me wondering about cutting the dados for the t track and mitre slots. It doesn't seem there would be much left to support it compared to 3/4"
You have to beef up underneath the top for the tracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm at the hole phase of the design.

1. ripped all my stuff
2. put in all obrounds and routed them and cut them to size.
3. will start drilling pocket screw holes next.
4. How to put the 3/4 holes into the top deck. there are many of them and plans call for a spiral up cut router bit, but doesn't that require a plunge router? Also I think the cutter is expensive. That's the price for NICE holes I guess. I'm considering epoxy coat the work surface and then use a cheap wood drill. The epoxy should eliminate any chipping and or fuzzy burrs. I have epozy left over from my boat. Any other ideas? Will post pics of progress for anyone who is taking on this task. Warning............you better be patient and ahve time for this, as it is quite a lot of work. I wasted my drill press drilling the 4+" holes.......52 of them through 3/4" I was cooling the blade as much as I could, but the motor got scalding hot before I realized it.
 

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One Osrud HSS 3/4" spiral bit from Lee Valley is $45.00.
Three MLCS HSS 3/4" spiral bits is $40.65.

I received the plans yesterday, but am having a tough time finding flat ply in any thickness!

Don't forget to let us in on any surprises, and post some progress pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/pmaru77/slideshow/Work%20Bench

Surprizes: I bought a hole saw from Harbor Freight (HF) and got 3 saws for $12 and the biggest one was 4.25". It made it through all the 52 holes (barely, be patient) but I did ruin my cheak B&D drill press motor. I'd suggest going with 1/2 material for those parts to save the aggravation of putting the large holes in thicker material. I picked 3/4 for that unfortunately. I thought it would be better for the pocket screw holes.....but if 1/2 works.....do it. You will be glad when it comes to the large holes. Plans call for a 4.5" dia hole but HF only had 4.25. I doubt that the 1/4 will kill me. But may make it harder to get tools in and out of.

The advice to make one cutout and then use as template is not what I did. The length of the 4.5 slots is not critical, but the location of them from the top or bottom may make the next cuts easier to line up. I pre drilled the center for the large holes with the same size as the pilot on the 4" cutter. If you drill them on a drill press, you can make them all the same diatance from the edge, so when you make the next cuts, it will be easier to line up your circ saw. I used a compound mitre saw for the short pieces and the festool for the long pieces. It only takes 10 minutes to lay out the location lines for the drilling for the large holes.

I used a dremel to blend the 4" holes whitht hehoriz cuts, and did not use a jigsaw which is the choice in the plans. that may do a better job of blending and not have to use the dremel, but my waste pieces basically just fell out after sawing with the circ.

Pocket holes are next because I have the tools. Still wondering how I'm going to put in the many many many 3/4 holes in the deck. Plans call for router bit, but I do not have the bit or a plunge router. So I'm stuck on that one. I'm counting 200 pocket holes! That is just for the 2 tables.
 

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Forstner bit?

I didn't put the holes in the top.... Yet. Not sure if I will, although I have already found serval places the holes would help.

Anyway, I was thinking a Forster bit would do the job. That or a reason to purchase a new tool. I would like to hear the opinions of more experienced woodworkers.
 

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I used a 3/4 inch forstner bit to drill part way so I got a clean start. Then I switched to a 3/4 inch spade bit to do the rest of the boring. Then I used either a chamfer bit or a small roundover bit (forgot which) to smooth out the hole and make it look good.
 

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where's my table saw?
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just in case you have no idea what this is...


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
update with photos



Resting up for next steps. No glitches or surprizes. Forster bit worked fine for the zillion 3/4 holes. I used scrap for backup when drilling, and if you put a lot of pressure on the wood just before it breaks through, you will get a cleaner hole on the other side. I pressed down hard on the wood with my left hand while drilling with the right......just pressing the drill down and not the wood results in a lot of splinters on the back side....though not all that improtant. I glued the decks to the frame, but no glue on the frame to frame parts. Why? Lazy. I plan on using some leftover West Marine epoxy on the inside joints befor I close up the bottom. I will also epoxy some other parts to prevent splinters.

More updated pics on the Photobucket file above also.

A lot of work to make this thing. I hope to be able to take advantage of as many functions as I can get out of it. The router table adaption is my next challenge.
 

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I finally got semi started today. I'm drilling the holes partially with a spade bit for alignment. Then using those partial holes, I'm boring the thru hole with a $14.00 MLCS HSS 3/4" bit. Seems to be working. I have the 2 tops clamped over one of the upside bottoms, so punch through won't be seen and a little dimpling will give the bottom some art appeal....
Boss lady just put me on another task....Later!



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Better table saw design?

I'm not sure how accurate the 3/4 holes need to be, so I am going to use them for clamping access only I think. Mine are going to be varying here and there about 1/32. I'm ready to install the bottom plates and have a question about the slots for the table saw bed. What are they good for? Should they not be a continuation of the table saw slots? Mine are 12.5" apart on my table saw and the drawings are 12" I did not put them in as they can be put in anytime. Also I might pick up a new table saw, and sell my Bosch because I can get good money for it because of the stand etc. So I am wanting to get a good table saw to use on this bench. Also, any way to have a better guide system while we are at it? Anyways, I have the pipe and wood to move onto the table saw mount, but I cannot do it until I decide on a saw. Any ideas on a saw? No portable stand needed........... I have to get the saw before I can go on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Pleasant discovery.......

I just installed the pipes to hold the table saw. Low and behold...the pipes act as a grab handle while tucked away. You can grab the pipe near the center and carry the half table with ease. I've been struggling trying to find a good hold on the half table when moving it around until I installed the pipe. I used 1.5" dia galv piping (for electrical?) and it measures a tad above 1.500". Bummer that there is no drill size just above that. I used a 1 5/8 hole saw so I have plenty of clearance. I tried looking for something that would open a 1.5 hole a tad, but came up empty. A 1 3/8 drum sanding bit would be perfect, but all they have is 1.5" and when tightening down the sandpaper, it swells even larger. The 1.50+ pipe is perfect size for grabbing and carrying. This may be in the instructions, but who reads instructions?
 

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I finished mine last week and kind of forgot about your thread. I also mounted a vise and router station on the other side. I pocket holed everything. For the bottom, I drove the screws with a right angle drive.
I used my tracksaw to connect the holes. Ron said he did also.
Here's some pics.

I boxed the area under the router plate for extra support and dust collection.




Added this vise. And the Grizzly clamps work great.



Hadn't planned on the pipes, I'm going to just for the handles :laughing:
 
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