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In The Basement
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Discussion Starter #1
Is there are reputable, high quality table saw that will have no alignment issues under ~$900? I realize that price is on the lower end.

I've been researching the past couple weeks and the most popular was the Ridgid 4512, although it seems like most of them cannot be aligned.

The biggest feature I'd pay for is a perfect fence alignment. I'm upgrading my shop in a few years so right now I only have 110V and limited space...Would love to buy a Grizzly 1023 with the built in router table, seems like a really good price especially since the router inserts alone are $300.

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Sawdust Wrangler
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Is there are reputable, high quality table saw that will have no alignment issues under ~$900? I realize that price is on the lower end.

I've been researching the past couple weeks and the most popular was the Ridgid 4512, although it seems like most of them cannot be aligned.

The biggest feature I'd pay for is a perfect fence alignment. I'm upgrading my shop in a few years so right now I only have 110V and limited space...Would love to buy a Grizzly 1023 with the built in router table, seems like a really good price especially since the router inserts alone are $300.

Discussssssss
You are [probably] going to have to align it, at least the first time. I know several people with the Incra TS system on their table saw/router table. They claim it's dead accurate after the initial setup. I know, from experience, that my Incra router fence is dead on accurate. I did have to set it up first. Trouble is, in a few years, all of this could change drastically. Unless you are buying soon, ask the question again a few months before you are really going to upgrade.

Having owned/own Ridgid table saws [both jobsite and cast iron], I have to say that, whether by luck or design, I have never had a fence alignment issue. Or any issues with them at all. Mine have been dependable and I've had them for a long time...

Hope this helps,

Paul

this little addon that fits many saws make top alignment easier http://in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/

some further reading

http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf
http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html
http://www.newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html
 

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"I've been researching the past couple weeks and the most popular was the Ridgid 4512, although it seems like most of them cannot be aligned."

Where did you get the idea that the fence on this saw or "most" cannot be aligned. The vast majority of table saw fences can be aligned. How long or how well they hold this alignment is the real question. Ease of alignment is another important quality for which to look. Even the poor fence that originally came of my old Craftsman saw could be aligned.

George
 

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No Longer Here, BY CHOICE
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The fence on most modern saws are pretty decent and most hold alignment well. The issue with staying in that price range is youll be forced to stay with a hybrid type saw. The problem with those are they have alignment issues with the blade as it is raised and lowered. I cant speak to all of them but Ive personally had issues with a Grizzly GO715P and sent it back. Was told by a tech thats its a flaw with the design and cant be corrected. Ive also read numerous issues with a similar situation with the R4512. Again, its not a fence issue but rather a design flaw with the lift mechanism. Personally, if you can spend 900, Id wait and save a couple more hundred and order the cabinet saw you mentioned.
 

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where's my table saw?
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understand 2 things

The fences are always adjustable whether it's a Biesemeyer, Xacta, Delta Unifence or the stock fences. There are screws to make the fence parallel to the miter slots which is the "preferred" method of adjustment and allows the use of the miterguage and other accessories.

The blade alignment process is the "fussy" adjustment and it must be parallel to the miter slots. Table saws have either a trunnion/arbor adjustment under the table OR the table adjusts relative to the cabinet. The cabinet saws, the higher end of the market have those type of ajustments. The contractor saws, the earlier models on the market, have the under the table trunnion type ajustment. The new Hybrid style saws have the cabinet separate from the table and the trunions so they are also easier to adjust.

So which type of saw will be easiest to adjust? .... the cabinet or hybrid type. :yes:
Most saws come factory adjusted, but you should always check your new saw to make certain. A long steel straightedge, 24" placed along side the blade, and NOT touching the teeth will give you a reference to measure from. Measure over to the miter slot on either side, I use the right side slot, because that's where my fence is. All 3 must be parallel to each other, the blade the slot and the fence. By using the miter slot, the only NON adjustable reference on the saw you will insure good/perfect alignment.

 

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The biggest feature I'd pay for is a perfect fence alignment. I'm upgrading my shop in a few years so right now I only have 110V and limited space...Would love to buy a Grizzly 1023 with the built in router table, seems like a really good price especially since the router inserts alone are $300.

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[/QUOTE]

a good choice IMHO. Mine came used with a shop fox fence. I set the alignment when i first set it up about four years ago and since haven't had to adjust it after much heavy use. My initial complaint was that the fence was very heavy and maybe too long but I got used to it.

I purchased my saw used in a package deal and probably paid about $600 for it.

Bret
Dual saw island, Grizzly side.jpg
 

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In The Basement
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Discussion Starter #7
You guys really know your stuff...I've checked some videos on aligning table saws, so I am positive I can do it, just need a quality saw to keep the alignment. Seems like the cabinet adjustment (vs table) would the best choice. I mean I am no EXPERT, but I feel a bad alignment would keep me from being great.

I don't really want to take the chance of having a Ridgid 4512 saw not aligning...gotta pay to play I guess. So many people on here say buy once and take the hit. I'm beginning to think they know it all...this forum along with my other hobbies is like a bad addiction! ;)

I would love a real cabinet saw but I am on 110V right now, unless I can find a 15" floot 220V ext cord. Not sure what my parents would think if I brought a huge and heavy $1300 saw into the basement!!! Maybe all they need is a new table or something in return!!

You guys can't think for me but you are very convincing
 

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where's my table saw?
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a fifteen foot extension cord will be just fine

I have used 220 V cords and have no issues. The fact is that they carry less current so a number 12 rubber covered cord will work. You can have one made up to plug in your dryer outlet OR have a cord wired directly into a breaker in the switch panel.

Go for the big $1300 saw. :yes: What the heck, start out right and you'll never regret it! :no:
 

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You guys really know your stuff...I've checked some videos on aligning table saws, so I am positive I can do it, just need a quality saw to keep the alignment. Seems like the cabinet adjustment (vs table) would the best choice. I mean I am no EXPERT, but I feel a bad alignment would keep me from being great.

I don't really want to take the chance of having a Ridgid 4512 saw not aligning...gotta pay to play I guess. So many people on here say buy once and take the hit. I'm beginning to think they know it all...this forum along with my other hobbies is like a bad addiction! ;)

I would love a real cabinet saw but I am on 110V right now, unless I can find a 15" floot 220V ext cord. Not sure what my parents would think if I brought a huge and heavy $1300 saw into the basement!!! Maybe all they need is a new table or something in return!!

You guys can't think for me but you are very convincing
My table saw is almost always run off a 50' extension cord. Most tools in my shop, at one time or another, have been run off this same cord. It is a 12 gauge cord.

George
 

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In The Basement
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Discussion Starter #10
I think I'd have a problem "carrying" it to the basement. And wouldn't the 240V 14A use way more power than my current 110V 15A Craftsman 10" saw??

Great seems like an extension cord wouldn't be a problem..
 

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where's my table saw?
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not really

I think I'd have a problem "carrying" it to the basement. And wouldn't the 240V 14A use way more power than my current 110V 15A Craftsman 10" saw??

Great seems like an extension cord wouldn't be a problem..
To use a 220 V saw you'd need a 20 AMP breaker. The breaker will take up 2 slots in the panel so you'd need 2 open slots or replace one of the 120 V and only one open slot.

The saw may draw 14 AMPs under start but run on 10 AMPs or so depending on the motor.

Don't worry about carrying it down the basement. I got a 1200 LB metal lathe down the basement stairs.... 'cause it just had to go down there. It all comes apart. Been there done that....cabinet, table, motor and side extensions...go for it.
 

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I think I'd have a problem "carrying" it to the basement.
You got that right! The 1023 has a shipping weight of 452#. :eek: One carton has the fence parts in it so you could probably carry that. Three of us could only pick the cabinet up about an inch or so. Not near enough to get it on the Shop Fox mobile base. :sad:

But it is a wonderful saw and I have enjoyed it every time I turn it on. I have an extension cord that is rated for 30 amps that connect the saw to the elect dryer connection. (I have a gas dryer and have had one for the last 25 years so there won't be a need for that elect connection).

I mounted a Rockler ON/OFF switch on the router extension wing support leg for easy operation of the router.
 

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