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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a newbie to this site BUT if I had read some of the threads BEFORE I bought this Craftsman RAS I might not be looking at this as a major pain in the behind project.
Later today when I get the saw out in the daylight I will post a photo, and some information because I know I am going to need some advice on how to get this bad boy in good shape.
It runs fine, motor sounds like a new saw but that is where the joy ends.
I will get this thing operational........
Bruce in Gold Beach Oregon:eek:
 

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I wouldn't get too worked up yet....a lot of guys find radial arm saws to be a really useful cross cut tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks

I wouldn't get too worked up yet....a lot of guys find radial arm saws to be a really useful cross cut tool.
Thanks for the encouragement I am just feeling overwhelmed, having never had a ras before, but I know it will all come out OK in the end or I'll at least give it the old college try. First order of business is to clean it up, and lube what should be lubed.
The big deal is going to figure out how to mount it.
I hope you guys can give me some ideas. I will post relevant photos later today.
Bruce
 

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What I would recommend is a thorough cleaning and lubricate the bearings and tracts so it is easier for you to fine tune all the adjustments when you get it set up. Often little or no maintenace was done on these saws. There is a guy near me that has had one on a uncovered porch in the same spot for 28 years. Also post the model number. Many of us have Craftsmans saws and have owners manuals we can scan pages for you.
 

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I've had a ras for at least 25 years and its still a valuable saw in my shop. Many cuts are easier on a ras.

There is a recall on some sears ras's and you will get many new parts free. new top, handle, guards free just for emailing. Mine is a 10" and I got the free stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Getting started

I spent most of yesterday cleaning, lubing and dinking around with the saw. It seems like it is pretty sound. Detents work nice and tight, I went to the recall web page and ordered the guard stuff, but I have read somewhere that when they send it, they send the table too? That doesn't seem likely but I will take it if it comes, (8-10 weeks)
My goal today is to build the table, I bought some angle aluminum for the table supports that bolt on the side will have to slot the mounting holes I drilled to make it level.
One issue is the difficulty in raising and lowering the head, seems too dang tight but it does move, I followed the instructions in the manual, loosing the two allen set screws and the two plated nuts, it helped but not a lot, will keep at it.....as soon as I educate myself on how to post photos in my thread I will
Bruce
PS the Model # is 113.197601 and serial # is 0101.M0074



Hard to see in this picture but the on off switch is broken and the plate that surrounds it is gone but the switch does work, hope I can find a replacement.
 

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One thing I found with my dewalt, is the screw that drove the elevation was so gunked up with old grease that it hardly moved. Once I cleaned that up and relubricated with dry Teflon lube it moves with one finger.

Yours may have the same issue.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One thing I found with my dewalt, is the screw that drove the elevation was so gunked up with old grease that it hardly moved. Once I cleaned that up and relubricated with dry Teflon lube it moves with one finger.

Yours may have the same issue.....
Before I get too far today I will take some photos of the things I think might be a problem and the underside view of the gears that drive the head up and down will be one pic for sure. One thing I need some help with is where are the correct lube points? I did the obvious ones but i do not see oil holes or anything like that, the cap that shows angle on the top of the column is missing also so that is going to take some thinking about how to deal with that.
 

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Once you get your RAS in shape and running, please observe the safety rules. RAS's are notorious for kick back. Use the anti-kick back pawl. When cross cutting keep control of the saw head...it can lunge ahead if you pull the head to fast. Here is a link for the pawl...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131094510440?lpid=82
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The big thing to get accurate cuts is to have a really flat table, which can be replaced from time to time because if you cut angles you will be creating a crater right ahead of the fence. The fence needs to be dead on for straightness and this will reflect on how straight the edge of the table is. Take the time to square up the arm with the fence and the saw head with the arm and the saw head (blade) with the table. If any of these settings is off even a little you will be cursing.

There is a lot of blade showing on a radial arm saw. Most of the guards are gone to hide in some corner. Between the kickback, run away saw head and reaching in by the blade, there is plenty of opportunity for major amputations, so be careful. How do I know?....I own a 16" DeWalt from the "old days", kind of like this one....

https://www.google.com/search?q=16+...e%3Dproduct_info%26products_id%3D1744;438;470
 

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I don't know if you're willing to spend the time, but every RAS that I've bought, I've torn down and rebuilt while cleaning and lubricating everything. A major issue for me has been the amount of sawdust in the motor. Craftsman RASs are notorious for that. Ensure that you blow out the motor real good. This should be a good saw for you once you get it up and going with the correct blade.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Safety and a few questions

Thanks to all of you and when it comes to safety I am extremely aware of the bad things that can happen with all sorts of high speed machinery including woodworking machinery. I was a safety coordinator for Proctor & Gamble and before that I worked at a race car mfg. I have seen some horrendous accidents over the years and refuse to put myself or anyone else in jeopardy. I will look into that pawl, thank you.....
Now some questions any ideas how to deal with the missing Miter indicator? (pictured below)


Next Question, Where would the correct position for the fence be? The saw head is at the full back position in this picture. And how tall should it be?


Next Question, but I think Radio Shack might be the answer, Where do you think I might find a switch replacement? This works but I dont like it.


Well thats it for now, on my way to the hardware store to buy some mounting bolts for the table mounting brackets I made.

Bruce in Gold Beach OR
 

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I'd check eBay for the missing parts. In regards to the fence, there is no correct answer. The farther back you mount it, the more horizontal capacity you have, but the more height capability you give up.

If you want to cut 3/4 stock only at the fence, you can move the fence back further than if you want to cut 2 inch stock. All depends on what you make.
 

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Thanks to all of you and when it comes to safety I am extremely aware of the bad things that can happen with all sorts of high speed machinery including woodworking machinery. I was a safety coordinator for Proctor & Gamble and before that I worked at a race car mfg. I have seen some horrendous accidents over the years and refuse to put myself or anyone else in jeopardy. I will look into that pawl, thank you.....
Now some questions any ideas how to deal with the missing Miter indicator? (pictured below)


Next Question, Where would the correct position for the fence be? The saw head is at the full back position in this picture. And how tall should it be?


Next Question, but I think Radio Shack might be the answer, Where do you think I might find a switch replacement? This works but I dont like it.


Well thats it for now, on my way to the hardware store to buy some mounting bolts for the table mounting brackets I made.

Bruce in Gold Beach OR
Wow, that's a pretty beat up saw, luckily I've fixed worse :)

You can get a switch at Radioshack or home depot or Sears but you will have to mount it elsewhere as it probably won't fit in the stock opening.

My first thing to do would be to visit www.radialarmsawrecall.com and see if it is included in the Radial Arm saw recall, if it is, they will send you a neat package with some cool stuff in it. Next thing is to download the manual and disassemble everything, remove the motor from the arm, the bevel/handle control from the motor, the arm from the column and the column from the raiser. Then start cleaning. If it's rusty, clean it, if it needs to be buffed/sanded/replaced go for it. then reassemble and enjoy your new saw!

EDIT* I see you already did the recall, it DOES come with a new table and should be delivered in less than a month. Mine only took a week!
 

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Not that I want to rain on your new tool parades, but that model of c-man RASs are not well received. The older c-mans, with CI columns and arms, are good little units that are easy to shape up and hold their settings quite well. I wouldn't invest a lot in that saw"
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will focus on Vac

I think while I clean and lube and generally clean it up I am going to work on a vacuum system, so far this is what I have to work with ID is 1 !/4" OD not counting the rib is 1 1/2". I have a decent Shop Vac so its all about connecting the guard to my vacuum,,,,easy-as-pie.....LOL
It will more than likely be on wheels so I can use it outside or in the shop door.
mmmmmm This is going to be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good News

After discovering what parts I will be getting in the recall deal, I am going to wait on lining things up, it all will change once the parts are here.
I found a switch on Ebay, thanks for the tip.
I discovered a ton of "crap" down in the bottom of the column tube, not just a little either. The shop vac got a lot of it but I am going to have to rig up a long small diameter tube to attach to my air line nozzle, I will get it all out but I am thinking that is what is making the raising and lowering so difficult when I get down to the lower portion of the column tube.
Can't wait for the parts to get her this IS going to be a ball.
 

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One other thing, I don't know what blade your going to use as far as numbe rof teeth, but I've been told to alway use at least a 40 tooth blade and 60 is better. Less number of teeth (like 24) will cause the blade to grab the wood and stall out the motor. Its dangerous also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One other thing, I don't know what blade your going to use as far as numbe rof teeth, but I've been told to alway use at least a 40 tooth blade and 60 is better. Less number of teeth (like 24) will cause the blade to grab the wood and stall out the motor. Its dangerous also.
Yeah, the blade that came with it is actually fairly un-used, all on the printing on the blade is unmarked and after cleaning it up looks pretty good it is a 36 tooth, narrow kerf. We will be doing mostly small stuff like frames and such, so I will get another blade but those 60 tooth ones are P-R-I-C-E-Y wow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Recall parts are here !!

Well I was pleasantly surprised when the Fedex driver pulled up with a box for me!! After a little fiddling I got it all put together, lined up and about ready to do some test cuts, but before I do I want to put a "sacrificial top" on so I don't tear up the 1" top they sent me so what have you guys done? Would a 3/8" piece work? and how do I attach it to the current top without causing me trouble?
Here is a couple of views of how it looks now.



I still have some work to do on it like replace the switch and work on the column the arm moves up and down on, it is still very hard to raise and lower, one handed is really hard and I know i will need to be able to do it with one hand.
 
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