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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need to make a stopped dado that is only ¼” wide in a small piece of wood and I don’t want to do it by hand. I have a router dado jig, but the piece is too small for me to use it and I was thinking of doing it on my router table instead.

I’m not exactly sure exactly how to do this without making a mistake. It is going to be a shadow box with glass and I don’t want the shelf to touch the glass dado in front of it. Any suggestions?

 

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You can use the router. Just clamp down some pieces the same thickness as the work to your bench so you have enough support for the router and clamping a straight edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
WOW! a radial Saw? I don't think so. LOL
The total cut is 1 1/2" long and it not worth my time to even set up. The only way is a router bit, but how do I do that on a piece of wood only 11" long and 2 1/2" wide?

This is a drawing of the finished product:

 

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I would use my router table assuming my fence moved back far enough.

I would use the mitre gauge if you have a mitre slot, otherwise, cut a piece of plywood square to act as the mitre gauge.

Clamp a stop block on the left of the fence so you control the length of the cut.

Square off the end with a hand chisel. I have done this before.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well this is a lot harder than I thought. I already destroyed the first piece and now I have to make another.:furious:

My ¼” bit is chipped and I thought I could make two cuts with a 1/8” bit but that proved too difficult without being able to see where I’m at. I need to buy a 1/4” bit and make a jig before I can do anymore.
 

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Do you have a router or trimmer with a square base? You can clamp stops for the base to ride on and mark a pencil line where you want to stop. Square it with a chisel, and you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do you have a router or trimmer with a square base? You can clamp stops for the base to ride on and mark a pencil line where you want to stop. Square it with a chisel, and you're good to go.
I do have Rigid trim router and I guess I could try that, but I think I'd still have to make some sort of jig so both sides are the same and I don't cut too far.
Anyway I'm off to the store to buy a 1/4" bit :shifty:
 

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where's my table saw?
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You need to support the base as well

If the router can tip, just surround the workpiece with scraps of equal thickness. Make a jig using either 2 - "L" shaped pieces or a rectangular frame to control the sides of the router base and the fore and aft travel. Plunge down into the work and just run it back and forth using the frame as a stop on either end. You will need to make a practice run to get the length right, UNLESS you are good at calculations. lessee now ....router base minus 1/2 the bit diameter...length of the dado....etc...
Something like this:


There's aways the hand tool method. :yes:
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone, I had to build something but I finally got them cut.

I'll probably need a little wood putty for the first cut because I didn't have it clamped down, but I'm happy with the other 3.



That just took TOO long :laughing:
 

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Johnny, does the vertical piece hve a tenon?

I have done this successfully by routing the groove (1/4 inch in my case) and leaving it a little short of the end of the mating board. Then I simply trimmed off a little of the tenon stub and it fit perfectly. This was a 3/4 inch piece that had a 1/4 inch tenon so it fit into the groove and the shoulders covered the hole. Made a good looking joint...and no chisel was needed. :)

Not sure if this helps, but that is all I can think of at the moment.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Johnny, does the vertical piece hve a tenon?

I have done this successfully by routing the groove (1/4 inch in my case) and leaving it a little short of the end of the mating board. Then I simply trimmed off a little of the tenon stub and it fit perfectly. This was a 3/4 inch piece that had a 1/4 inch tenon so it fit into the groove and the shoulders covered the hole. Made a good looking joint...and no chisel was needed. :)

Not sure if this helps, but that is all I can think of at the moment.
Mike
No its actually one of the two shelves I just set it on the piece that needed the dado to illustrate what I was doing. Its still in its raw form straight from Lowes. I'll be sanding it and cutting it to size after I assemble the box with the glass pane. Then I'll be gluing it in
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Shadow Box Fit tested

Well it looks like it all fits together. Tomorrow I'll finish it and glue it all up. :icon_smile:

 

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It may be a little late, but others may have some continued interest. How do you plan to access the front glass/Plexiglass?

If you have to make another, what I do is cut the sides (with the dado) first by starting with a piece wide enough to rip both ends out of it. It could be 6" or 8", whatever is comfortable and feels safe to handle.

This piece can be dadoed either on a router table, using a fence, or by hand using a "T" square or "L" square as a guide. Route the dado all the way through. Then rip the widths to the dimension of what it will be to the stopped dimension. Then rip two more pieces the width in front of the stopped dado. Edge glue them on. So, now you have the ends with the dado and the section in front. There is no real narrow pieces to handle, and no chiseling to do to square out the dado.






.
 

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where's my table saw?
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you used the router table

Thanks everyone, I had to build something but I finally got them cut.

I'll probably need a little wood putty for the first cut because I didn't have it clamped down, but I'm happy with the other 3.



That just took TOO long :laughing:
I see you used a sliding miter gauge type jig and moved the work into the cutter, a great solution. :yes: You "probably" made some index marks to get them all the same dimension from the end?
You "probably" made a stop by clamping a board on the table to make them the same length? You "probably" made a test cut or 2 to get it all dialed in? Right? :blink: :laughing:
 
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