[Al B Thayer]

I have to say if I want a true edge I don't touch it with my ROS. Hand plane or scraper then finish sand.

Having said that I will use my Porter Cable 505. But only if I'm easing the edge. I also built a harder sanding pad/plate for it to maintain flatness.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Oops!

 

[Al B Thayer]

I wanted to be a real smart ... and say rough side down

As for on or airplane I do both. Mostly I start and stop on the surface. Probably not the best for stopping, starting should not make a lot of difference. I have a 20 year old festool. It still runs like a dream. It has a very good action - when I pull my finger off the trigger I generally put a bit more pressure on the work and the paper stops and the machine takes up the final vibration.

Hand sanding definitely with the grain. I'd probably do a real quick one with whatever grit you finished with bit it should not take a lot.

My understanding is the whole idea of ROS is it does not matter which way you go.

Some sanders have various harness bases that can be switched to do essentially what you are saying here

I'm not aware of any base for PC except the one it's sold with. Do they offer more? Because after getting a top flat the harder pad will keep it that way.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Festool have 2 or 3 different density pads to my knowledge. Ain't cheap at $75 au per pad. I can buy a throw away sander for $50

You know those pads kids play on that lock together like a puzzle? That the material I make sanding pads for my PCs.

Festool in English means bend over we'll drive. but good for you. You prolly need that kind of tool.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Thanks everyone. I am trying to use the sacrificial boards that Dave Paine suggested for end grain and edge grain.

Stan
Do you have a cabinet scraper? It would save you a lot of time if you did. It's got to be the easiest hand tool to learn to use.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Good idea. Do you put Velcro on it?

No I use 3M Stikit. I use Velcro on the ROS disc sander. Not real fond of it, never use it for final 180- 220.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Unfortunately I am not sure what a cabinet scraper is.

Well I'm not too good at posting much here besides pictures or I would show you one. It works like a plane only it's just a blade you hold in your hand. You sharpen it and scrape off the wood to smooth it down. Lightning fast compared to sanding. Once I started using one I no longer need a belt sander. I gave it away a long long time ago. I also I use a ton less sandpaper.

There are variations, some you hold and some go in a handle that looks kinda like a hand plane. I have both. I would encourage you to look into it and pick one up. Watch a few YouTubes and advance your woodworking. You won't be sorry and you will sand less.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Another point to make that gets over looked. Change paper often. Worn paper is not sanding and in the finer grits your just polishing the wood.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Yeah, until you own one. Then it's like heroin. And if you do your work in a lived-in area, you can take all that time you used to spend cleaning up the mess and use it for some R&R.

Yes, that's why I said they are good for those who need them. It's also worth noting their price tag is also weighted by more than the quality of the tool.

For me I don't remodel or do work for other people in their homes. I just build furniture in my own shop.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Rottenstone does wonders for creating a mirror finish. Once the finish is completely cured (100+ hours) you can use 2F pumice, followed by 4F pumice and finish with rottenstone. I've done that with just water as the lubricant but I hear 50/50 mineral spirits/mineral oil works well.

I use pumice and like the non-blooming oil. I've never tried anything else. I also now use a felt pad sold for rubbing out finishes. I will probably never use any thing else again the pad works great.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Well, after reading all this and realizing how much work goes into a "good" finish, I am glad that I only make stuff that is shabby chic / industrial chic looking (I use a lot of black pipe in my pieces), so it is ok if stuff looks crappy, just as long as the finish doesn't look "blotchy" and people don't get splinters using it.

Well then post some picks for us to see.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

In my one venture into creating a "superior" finish, I spent almost 40 hours working to achieve it. My hands ached, I put holes in so many gloves I stopped using them and my skin turned grey from the rottenstone. I got the mirror finish I was going for but in the end the $ per hour I earned for the piece was almost cut in half by that "superior" finish. And honestly, I don't think it would have made a lot of difference to the customer, one way or another.

That's why when I read your post I was nodding appreciatively.

I'm pretty happy with 4 pumice. The difference between 4 and the rottenstone seems a bit much. Like going from 220 grit to 1200.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Sanding does little to reduce blotching in pine. You have to condition it before staining.

You could apply a shellac wash coat. Start with a 2 pound cut of shellac, like SealCote, and dilute it 1 to 1 with denatured alcohol. Sand to 220. Vacuum and tack off the pine.

Apply an even coat of wash coat but don't flood the surface. Once dry, scuff the surface lightly with 320 grit. This works for solvent-based and waterborne stains. If you are using alcohol-based stain or dye, you need to use glue size (1 part full strength glue and 4 parts warm water) for the wash coat.

I've heard gel stain helps control blotching but have never tried it.

You know I was a happier woodworker until someone pointed out blotching. That's good advice.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.