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I need to run some casing through the tablesaw on edge as part of a box build.

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I need to run it through with the 5/8" side down and the curved side towards the fence to remove the lip on the flat side on the 5/8" corner. The plan is to remove a grove, 1/4" from the width and about 1 3/4" deep. Basically, I'm trying to leaving the small side with a lip 3/8" to 1/2" tall where I can cut a groove for the box bottom, while removing the bulk of the material from the 5/8" dimension above the bottom. The curved side will be the wall of the box with the skinny edge down.. I'm thinking I'm going to need a jig for this as I'm don't want my fingers above the blade and I'm thinking a push stick will cause the piece to rock over.
 

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don't do that

Just place the piece flat side down, small curve to the fence.
Take one pass removing 1/8" from under the 5/8 portion. Chanbge the fence to gradually remove "most of the material with each succeeding pass. BE SURE TO LEAVE about 1/4" for the work to ride on. Just remove the final 1/4" with a hand plane.

OR you could tack a strip on the 5/8" curve making a "foot" for support and remove ALL of the unwanted material, 1/8" kerf at a time.

I would not attempt to run the piece vertically, curved side to the fence. :no:
 

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You are going to have to make a jig that will hold the material steady in that orientation. Tape, screw or nail the flat side of the casing to a flat board. Set the board against the fence and set the saw blade the appropriate distance to make the cut you want. Be sure that your fastener(s) are on the top of the casing.

You will then have to make a rip cut to remove the waste material.

George

George
 

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Looks like more work than I would do to accomplish what I think you want to do if I am reading this correctly. Sounds like you want to make a box (with a bottom that fits into a groove) that has a curve that matches the curve of the molding. If that's the case, and I were doing this myself, I'd simply make the box with the groove from some 3/4 inch stock (or planed down if I were after a 5/8 or smaller major dimension) and then set a bevel on my table saw to cut away most of the waste for the curve and then plane the curve with a block plane and sand to smooth. Lots faster and LOTS safer than trying to trim the feet off the casing with the curve against the fence.
 

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Do you have, or have access to, a router table? With a straight cut/mortising bit that would be my weapon of choice here. That or a dado stack. In application it would be similar to what Woodnthings said, just leave a little on the end for the work to ride on and knock it off last with a block plane, sharp chisel, etc. No way would I run the radius side of that casing against a TS fence on edge. That's asking to lose a digit. Or worse.

Brian
 

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OK, here's another idea

Make or find a strip of material that's the same dimension as the offset and double side tape it in between the two flats. It will act as a "wider board when in the vertical position and have more bearing area to hold firmly against the fence. The 5/8" wide horizontal portion combined with the additional support "should" provide enough control to rip the unwanted flat off.
If that seems too scary, you could do the same thing and screw the whole unit to a wider board to run against the fence. The screw holes won't show since it's the back side. You just want to have total control over the workpiece at all times and by having a vertical and horizontal support that will be safer.
 

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Personally I would get two strips one to fit in between the two areas to be cut making it totally flat.Use double sided tape as mentioned a few times. You can now run it flat on a table saw (dado blade) or router table to remove one side. Now tape the other strip in the area you just cut. Flip it around an trim the other side.
 
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