Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Craftsman 113.Table Saw Rebuild-how to remove arbor housing on craftsman 113.299040?

Can someone please tell me what all needs to be removed to take the bearing holder off the underneath of the saw? Is there some photos or videos showing the step by step details of this? There is 2 metal pivot pins I think which hold this arbor assembly on the trunnion but not sure how to knock them off the cradle or do you just slip this arbor holder off this pivot pin which his set in the cradle?. It is a 1976 saw- model 113.299040.

Also do you have to take the entire cradle off the top to do this or can you work it through the side? I put a photo to show the part I want to know how to remove.

 

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
31,937 Posts
your photo threw me off

Thanks but I already have this parts list..they just do not show what needs to be taken off step by step. :smile:
You seem to be asking how do I remove the arbor housing from the carriage...yet you show it already removed...:blink:
Then I thought you must mean "How do I dis assemble the arbor housing" so I thought the diagram would help. Knotscott's description is very detailed so that should help.
However if you want to know how to remove the housing from the carriage, remove the clip(s) and it should pry off from the side.
Yeah, it would be a lot easier if the carriage was removed from the saw...BTDT a few times AND if the saw was upside down on the bench...BTDT myself.
I'm assuming you want to replace the bearings as described in the Rigid article, because why else would you need it off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,302 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You seem to be asking how do I remove the arbor housing from the carriage...yet you show it already removed...:blink:
Then I thought you must mean "How do I dis assemble the arbor housing" so I thought the diagram would help. Knotscott's description is very detailed so that should help.
However if you want to know how to remove the housing from the carriage, remove the clip(s) and it should pry off from the side.
Yeah, it would be a lot easier if the carriage was removed from the saw...BTDT a few times AND if the saw was upside down on the bench...BTDT myself.
I'm assuming you want to replace the bearings as described in the Rigid article, because why else would you need it off?

The photo was just one I found on google to give some idea of what I was trying to remove. I was trying to remove it to replace the bearings. Just need to know how all this stuff is taken apart the easiest without breaking something. I bought this TS a few months ago dirt cheap and just now notice the bearings make a slight scratching and clattering noise when you spin the arbor. Arbor spins very loose and very very very little side to side slop in it..but the noise telles me to just put new bearings now. I tapped the arbor housing off today before I got a chance to read the other replies left here today . I used a brass drift from the side to knock it off...was very very stubborn coming off though. I noticed when it was off it was caked on with some rust and hard sludge on it. To slip it back on easier can you clean up the pivot pin with some fine sandpaper ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
31,937 Posts
beating vs driving

This would been a lot better tutorial if the guy added more photos showing every piece he first started taking out with a separate photo. Also beating a bearing on with a pipe is not good..should be pressed on. Otherwise pretty good information.
Driving on the bearing with a suitable diameter pipe is OK if you don't "beat" on it. BTDT a few times. You can clean off the pins with a combination of WD 40 or other lube and some green nylon pad or 600 grit wet dry. You won't remove any metal just rust or crud.

Those 5/8" bearings are so common TSC has them hanging on their wall in the hydraulic part area. Emerson used them on the 6" jointers also.

Take some photos as you go and then you can put up a good tutorial for other to see here. :thumbsup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,676 Posts
This would been a lot better tutorial if the guy added more photos showing every piece he first started taking out with a separate photo. Also beating a bearing on with a pipe is not good..should be pressed on. Otherwise pretty good information.
Sorry the article was not up to your standards, it was done as a request from a reader to my site long after I replaced the bearings. The two photos were taken by that reader when he did his, without any problems.

As for driving the bearing on with a pipe not everyone has a press in their woodworking shop and if they did have one they likely would not have to ask how to change a couple bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
some photos

Today I got the arbor shaft out and that went smoothly. Only thing now I need to pull the other bearing off the shaft. I noticed though the bearing on the pulley end with the 3 screw retainer came out so easy. One tap and it was out. I can almost press the old bearing in by hand. Is this normal? I did not yet try slipping in the new bearing as it got too late. Added a few photos of the arbor housing and the arbor off the old Craftsman. I am thinking this saw was made in 1977. Is there a way to tell more precise with the serial number off the saw?




 

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
31,937 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,302 Posts
Does anyone know which Company made the 1hp capacitor motors for this saw?
if the model number starts with and is configured as follows: 113.######, then emerson electric motors were OEM on those saws. if there is a different model number prefix (first 3 numbers to the left of a period), then consult the index provided in the previous post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
My new bearings press in by hand on the arbor housing. The old bearings came out easily also. Is this normal? The new bearings fit very tight on the arbor shaft though and it will need a lot of pressure to squeeze that down the shaft. I made a video so you can take a look and tell me what you think. My new bearings are 6202RS. Specs are suppose to be -INSIDE DIAMETER 0.625. OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1.376. WIDTH 0.432- at least that is what I was told when the guy sold them to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-gJ6MdtBCo&feature=youtu.be



I also notice some bearings with exact same size on box give different specs of the ID by a couple of thousandths....this is normal?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not sure if I will post anymore more on this thread since I got no help on last question and sarcasm in some private messages....but here is one last question anyways. Does the collar that goes on this arbor shaft suppose to move up and down at all? Is this thing pressed on there and just held in place like the bearings? I had a friend saying he could press these 2 new bearings on for me and took the arbor with him. He brought it back and told me he could not do it because something was not lining up...big mistake letting him take it and screw things up. Now the collar where the saw blades sits up against is moved up the shaft about 1/4". I always thought this collar and shaft was all one piece turned on a lathe..apparently not?


 

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
31,937 Posts
just push it back

You could use an arbor press or a vise and a tube as long as the shaft fits within the vise's capacity. That collar is the inner flange for the blade if I recall. It's placement may not be terribly critical since a small gap could be taken up with a shim on the bearing side...you'd have to see. Too loose would be better than too tight, but maybe be a tap once in place would allow a proper fit. Too bad this happened. :thumbdown:
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,011 Posts

Not sure if I will post anymore more on this thread since I got no help on last question and sarcasm in some private messages....but here is one last question anyways. Does the collar that goes on this arbor shaft suppose to move up and down at all? Is this thing pressed on there and just held in place like the bearings? I had a friend saying he could press these 2 new bearings on for me and took the arbor with him. He brought it back and told me he could not do it because something was not lining up...big mistake letting him take it and screw things up. Now the collar where the saw blades sits up against is moved up the shaft about 1/4". I always thought this collar and shaft was all one piece turned on a lathe..apparently not?
The parts drawing shows the arbor shaft and collar as one number. Can't tell how it is fixed. There shouldn't be any slop on the backside of that collar to the bearing. Could be the collar stops on the bearing, and the circlips holding the bearing is what backs up the collar. I wouldn't think adding shims would be a viable fix.




.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Apparently this blade collar flange is pressed on at the factory because I took this arbor to another friend of mine with a 50ton hydraulic press and pushed the flange back up 1/4" to where it was before. Apparently when you add both bearings to each side of the arbor and press it everything will line itself up with about 4 tons of pressure.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top