how to make a strong firepit table

178 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Horseapple Man, 1 d ago

rodney_j_diep

Discussion Starter · 4 d ago

I am going to make a firepit with a wine barrel and build table to set on it.

I live in the redwoods and have lots of small redwood lumber and a mill. I also have access to a planer and a jointer.

Here are my 2 ideas, let me know if you think one of these is better than the other or have a better idea.
1) mill some 1x4s and make 2 layers, one vertical and one horizontal.
2)mill some 1x4s and make 2 layers, each meeting up with 45degree angles (instead of 90 degrees in #1) and then the bottom layer would be the same but rotated 22.5 degrees to give it some more strength.

For both of these I was thinking of gluing the 1x4 together on their edges and clamping them good while drying and then gluing and screwing the top layer to the bottom layer.

The table will be about 6 feet in diameter with the center cut out of it for the fire pit which is 24 inches in diameter.

I am concerned that when I cut the center 2' out that it wont be very strong. I do have access to a welder and was thinking I could put some angle iron on the bottom if it doesn't seem strong enough.

Anybody have any thoughts or ideas?

Here are 2 images I drew up to kind of explain my 2 ideas.

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SonnyAgain

· #2 · 2 d ago

Your proposed table top should be strong enough to support a fire pit and small firewood.

I would suspect the edge of the hole would eventually char badly or even catch fire, resulting in break down of proper support. As I understand the proposed setup, I would install something like rebar hooks or bent metal bars of some sort, around the hole, so the pit doesn't actually touch the wood rim, i.e., some kind of fire proof spacer between the pit and wood, to reduce or restrict any heat transfer. Maybe somehow anchor/secure the spacers along the edge of the wood rim?

Sonny

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allpurpose

· #3 · 2 d ago

I definitely wouldn't let the metal pit come in direct contact with the wood. I dropped a burning chunk of wood on an old dryer panel laying on the back porch once and forgot about it. Porch still has quite a burn hole in it. Maybe a layer of fire brick all the way around the pit might help, but pine is going to burn easily.. Keep plenty of water handy just in case.
Rumor has it that roaring fire tends to get really hot and burns wood sometimes..
Oh yeah..don't place it close to you house unless you're planning arson or something devious like that..

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rodney_j_diep

Discussion Starter · #4 · 1 d ago

SonnyAgain said:
Your proposed table top should be strong enough to support a fire pit and small firewood.

I would suspect the edge of the hole would eventually char badly or even catch fire, resulting in break down of proper support. As I understand the proposed setup, I would install something like rebar hooks or bent metal bars of some sort, around the hole, so the pit doesn't actually touch the wood rim, i.e., some kind of fire proof spacer between the pit and wood, to reduce or restrict any heat transfer. Maybe somehow anchor/secure the spacers along the edge of the wood rim?

Sonny

Ya, I already built triple wall aluminum spacers from an old cookie sheet to go between the hot pan and wine barrel and the wine barrel will hold the redwood table top. I was wondering if you think the one with 45 degree angles would be much stronger than the one with 90 degree angles? Thx! Rodney_j_diep

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Horseapple Man

· #5 · 1 d ago (Edited)

I burn all of my cardboard garbage in a steel 55 gallon drum.

The drum often glows orange at the bottom.

You'd need some serious spacers in there.

And not aluminum.

Aluminum melts at 1218°F. (source)

Wood fire is typically around 2000°F (source)

Also, aluminum is a conductor of heat, not an insulator.

But to answer your question, (as if this project wasn't doomed from the git-go) the 45° joints will be stronger than 90° because the diagonal faces have more surface area to glue up.

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