I suppose the real question that comes to mind is.... what type of finished "finish" are you shooting for? What don't you like about the previous finishes you used?

As for the shellac.... I personally love using shellac in many different ways. As a wash coat cut aggressively with denatured alcohol (wood conditioning or seal coating against blotching on soft woods), sanding sealer or build coats prior to final finish or as a final finish. I think it performes very well wherever you choose to use it.

BUT.... it "can" be tempermental. Especially if used incorrectly. For example, if you are using it as a sanding sealer or build coat prior to your final finish coat(s).... then you must use a "DEWAXED" shellac. The wax which is naturally present in shellac, will prevent other finishes from sticking properly. So, you will have all kinds of issues (none of them good) when trying to apply your final finish. As long as it's dewaxed, you can apply any finish over it.

So again, a better idea of what you're shooting for or what you don't care for about past tables with your Varthane Poly would be really helpful.

 

JW and Jerry,

Thanks for both your comments.

I'm looking for a very smooth "see yourself in the table top" finish.

I will be using dewaxed shellac either from store bought can or my mix of blond shellac (the contained says de-waxed).

Now for the type of product I could use over the Shellac that is not "poly" like, Jerry, do you have a product name and a brand name suggestion? I don't understand the practical differences between all these finishing products on the market like Waterlux, Varathane, etc. If they would just say "do not apply over shellac" then I would know.

Thanks Again
Nubie :confused1:

 

The two types of finishes that have trouble adhering to natural shellac are polyurethane varnish and water borne acrylic. alkd resin varnish,phenolic resin varnish or lacquer have no problems. I like and use shellac too,

Regards

Jerry

 

Do some samples on scrap before you do anything to the table!

I like Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish for high gloss finishes if I am not spraying and have to use a varnish. You really don't need the BLO or the shellac unless the color of the shellac is something that you really want. Just thin the first coat of varnish 50% with mineral spirits as a seal coat, let dry and then scuff sand with 320 grit. Apply full coats using a high quality china bristle or foam brush. After each coat dries sand with 320 using a sanding block ONLY! The gloss areas left will be the low spots, try and get as many sanded out as possible without sanding through the layer of finish, keep applying coats of varnish until there are no more low spots. After the finish dries and shrinks completely ( I would wait a week) You can wet sand with 1500 grit paper (sanding block again) and then buff using automotive buffing compounds (3M works great)

 

The last walnut item that I built was finished only in lacquer. Numerous coats, coat to your desired look, that were periodically sanded between sprayings. I love the look.

George

 

I like to use a 50/50 mix of blo and mineral spirits first that I use as a lubricant to wetsand the project with. For the tops, I let the slurry sit on it till it dries, then lightly sand it. This will act as a mild grain filler which is usually desired when working with walnut. I like to follow this with shellac for the whole piece, and then lacquer for the top, since it needs to be the most durable. After this I wax the rest of the piece with my homemade beeswax polish.

 

my tables

On my tables i used BLO alonf with 2 coats of sanding sealer. Then sprayed 3 costs of Poly satin finish and one with glossy finish.