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how long should freshly stained wood cure before applying polyurethane?

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160K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  cabinetman  
#1 ·
I just finished up building some cabinets (Maple ply) and doors (solid cherry) and have applied an oil-based (Minwax) stain. how long should I let the stain cure/dry before applying a few coats of polyurethane? I was thinking 24 hours would be enough but not sure.
 
#2 ·
I just finished up building some cabinets (Maple ply) and doors (solid cherry) and have applied an oil-based (Minwax) stain. how long should I let the stain cure/dry before applying a few coats of polyurethane? I was thinking 24 hours would be enough but not sure.
It would depend on temperature, humidity and what kind of polyurethane you plan to use. If its warm and dry and you are using an oil based polyurethane than 2-3 hours is sufficient. If it's cool or damp you probably should wait overnight. If you are using a water based polyurethane then the stain should dry 7 to 10 days. You can shorten the wait by sealing the wood with a de-waxed shellac such as Zinsser Sealcoat after 2-3 hours and then proceed with the water based poly. The sealcoat will work as a barrier coat to prevent adhesion problems associated with the linseed oil in the stain.
 
#3 ·
For an oil base stain waiting about 4 hours should be sufficient for either oil base or waterbase polyurethane. I've never had adhesion problems. Waterbase polyurethane should be sprayed in thin applications. Usually, if I stain in the morning, I can start topcoating near the end of the day.


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#4 ·
Steve Neul said:
It would depend on temperature, humidity and what kind of polyurethane you plan to use. If its warm and dry and you are using an oil based polyurethane than 2-3 hours is sufficient. If it's cool or damp you probably should wait overnight. If you are using a water based polyurethane then the stain should dry 7 to 10 days. You can shorten the wait by sealing the wood with a de-waxed shellac such as Zinsser Sealcoat after 2-3 hours and then proceed with the water based poly. The sealcoat will work as a barrier coat to prevent adhesion problems associated with the linseed oil in the stain.
Excellent point Neul. Shellac is the wonder finishing tool too many over look. Even thinned way down it will adhere well and aid in adhesion of the finish to be applied.

I would like to add one word of caution to the OP. If your not experienced with waterborne finishes. Best off if you give it a try on a large scrap piece first. Even pros have problems with it and we don't want your next thread to be .... eek what happened to my finish?

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 
#5 ·
I would like to add one word of caution to the OP. If your not experienced with waterborne finishes. Best off if you give it a try on a large scrap piece first.
That holds true for any finishes, not just waterbased.

Even pros have problems with it and we don't want your next thread to be .... eek what happened to my finish?
What's your source of information for this statement? Sounds like you are attempting to dissuade the use of waterbased finishes. We surely don't want to do that do we.


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