[Sleeper]

I need to clamp this corner brace in to glue, but I don’t have anything to support the clamp and it’s moving all over the place. Is there something that can use like a jig or something?

 

[Dave Paine]

If the underside of that brace will not be visible, consider using CA (super glue) to attach a small scrap block on either side. Once these are set then you can clamp to the scrap blocks.

 

[Wema826]

Yes,

make a clamp block that has a 90* cut out and put it on the outside of the box. then you should be able to clamp it easily.

 

[Sleeper]

The last time I had to do this I turned the cabinet upside down on the corner and used weights to hold it in place while the glue dried, but this too heavy for that. :smile:

 

[Wema826]

Its a rough pic but you get the idea!

 

[Sleeper]

View attachment 76276

Its a rough pic but you get the idea!

Thanks John

 

[Sleeper]

John you gave me an idea, I wonder if something like this would work. It has some size limitations and a little pricy, but should work on small corner blocks.

 

[Wema826]

your welcome,

It may work, I dont know the if it will have the depth you need.

 

[Steve Neul]

I would make the corner block out of solid wood instead of plywood and it if it doesn't show just put a brad at each end of it to hold it until the glue dries.

 

[Sleeper]

I would make the corner block out of solid wood instead of plywood and it if it doesn't show just put a brad at each end of it to hold it until the glue dries.

I was going to shot a couple of brads into it with my air brad nailer, but changed my mind because I didn’t want to take any chances of it coming out the other side. I was only going with the plywood because it was cut off from the same piece.

Anyway while I was trying set it up I realized that it actually needed to be closer to center or no less than 11 1/2" from the front edge, so I need to make two of those blocks John mentioned and clamp a long board across with a clamp on each side.

This is my new plan:

 

[Willie T]

Got an old inner tube?

Cut a 1.5" cross section of it, making a rubber band of sorts.

Run this, top to bottom, on the outside of your corner.

Set your triangles in place...

Place a 2x4x about 24" (longer than your cabinet by about three inches.) against the edges of your triangles.

Loop the "rubber band" over one end of the 2x4.

Stretch the other end of the "rubber band" hard to go along the outside of the corner to finally loop over the other end of the 2x4.

Tap your triangles (now firmly held in place by the "rubber band") into perfect position.

Scribe a pencil line on the cabinet along the edges of the triangles.

Lift the triangles away a little so you can get glue in between the scribe marks.

Run your four beads of glue.

Now carefully lift each triangle back into the previous perfect position. (Yes, you can relieve tension by slightly lifting the 2x4 also.)

Check for square, and you're done... wait for glue to dry.


You MIGHT be able to simply use an old bicycle inner tube without even cutting it.... though you'll probably have to tie a knot in it to get the correct snug length.

EDIT: I just saw your drawing... Hummm you don't HAVE a corner behind this, do you? Well, that DOES present a challenge. Maybe TWO inner tubes from opposing 90° directions, hooking over the same 2x4?

 

[Willie T]

I have it.

Same 2x4 setup.

Use a full bicycle inner tube.

Loop over the bottom of the 2x4.

Run the inner tube up the inside, across the back of the 2x4, then down the outside, and loop the end back over the 2x4 where you started.

 

[Sleeper]

I have it.

Same 2x4 setup.

Use a full bicycle inner tube.

Loop over the bottom of the 2x4.

Run the inner tube up the inside, across the back of the 2x4, then down the outside, and loop the end back over the 2x4 where you started.

Thanks I do like the inner tube idea and maybe I can use it with my newly designed clamp jigs.

I was just working in sketchup trying to come up with something that would work for different corner types and I drew up this jig. I need two of them one on each side, but with this it can go on any configuration with ¾” plywood corners.

I’m going to make up one with two - ¾”MDF pieces glued together to make 1 ½” thickness and then rout out the dados for the plywood to fit.

 

[Knot in my wood]

I would use pocket holes and screw it into place after applying glue, then use a pocket hole plug - also glued, then sand the plug and move on to the next part of the project.

Good luck ~ Mike

 

[Sleeper]

I would use pocket holes and screw it into place after applying glue, then use a pocket hole plug - also glued, then sand the plug and move on to the next part of the project.

Good luck ~ Mike

Thanks Mike, I wish I had an air gun for staples. My uncles used to glue little blocks on all their stairs between the tread and the riser of each step to keep them from squeaking. They just used staples to hold them in place and depended on the glue to do all the work.

For me on this project, the plywood overhang is a little bent and I want to use pressure to assure it is snug and square in the corner. I don’t know if it was bowed the whole time or if it happened when I cut the dado. I plan on using a stringer (I guess it’s called) on top to actually straighten it and just want to be sure it doesn’t get out of whack.

 

[Willie T]

I built a wooden-wing airplane in my garage, and I used this rubber band method to epoxy on the leading edges of both wings. That is the big curved front surface of the wing. 22 rubber bands for a total of 26 feet of wing with a curved section about like the shape of a squeezed soccer ball.

 

[Willie T]

This is a different wing setup, but it gives you the idea.

This particular jig is just for bending and shaping a wet sheet of plywood prior to actually mounting it to the real wing.

 

[Willie T]

Not a great shot, but it shows you how firmly and smoothly a sheet of plywood can be glued down with rubber bands. (the top edge of the photo) That upper edge is the curved sheet shown in the other photo.

 

[Sleeper]

This is a different wing setup, but it gives you the idea.

This particular jig is just for bending and shaping a wet sheet of plywood prior to actually mounting it to the real wing.

Ok a photo makes a big difference. I can see it now. What size plywood is that?
I have made a lot of round and oval shapes with 1/8" plywood door skins. Most of the time when I get the shape I want, I start laminating more plywood on to it and I have to get creative with the gluing. I have not used elastic, but I have wound string around to get the shape I need. I think I'm going to start looking inner tubes. :yes:

 

[Willie T]

Ok a photo makes a big difference. I can see it now. What size plywood is that?
I have made a lot of round and oval shapes with 1/8" plywood door skins. Most of the time when I get the shape I want, I start laminating more plywood on to it and I have to get creative with the gluing. I have not used elastic, but I have wound string around to get the shape I need. I think I'm going to start looking inner tubes. :yes:

It's special stuff, just under 1/8". Sometimes I use straps ($10 cam-type tie downs), but most of the time, rubber bands. To maintain light weight, it only gets the one ply layer.

On one of my earlier wings, I used a 100' electric cord, wound round and round. :yes: