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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning to make my own set of carbide tipped tools (similar to easy wood tools). These seem too simple to make to pay the premium price for. I do, however, have a couple questions I am hoping you can help me with.

How much of the bar should go into the tool handle? I plan to make several tools, and multiple handles, but would like the handles to have set screws so I can switch out tools if needed.

My second question is whether or not I should round the part that will be inserted in the handle. I bought 1/2" square stock, and could round the end that goes into the handle, but not sure if one is better/more desirable than the other.

Last, I was curious what are people's preferred tool lengths? Handle length and tool length themselves. I have 10 ft of stock to use, and can buy blanks for handles, so I have options.

I have very little lathe experience, and I know a lot of this is personal preference, but a nudge in the right direction would be a huge help. Thanks!

Dean
 

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The full size tools 1/2 square shafts are 12" long with 4" in the handle and 8" exposed. 16" wood handles

The mini 3/8 square shafts are 6" long with 2" in the handle and 4" exposed. 12" wood handles

If you can round the part going in the handle than do it but people don't want to pay for that extra feature since square shaft in round hole works just fine.

Full size uses #8-32 screw
Mini uses #4-40 screw.
Ewt cutters come with these screws so do other ebay sellers and other random suppliers..

I made a few of these tools for my self and others on this forum.. :) good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The full size tools 1/2 square shafts are 12" long with 4" in the handle and 8" exposed. 16" wood handles

The mini 3/8 square shafts are 6" long with 2" in the handle and 4" exposed. 12" wood handles

If you can round the part going in the handle than do it but people don't want to pay for that extra feature since square shaft in round hole works just fine.

Full size uses #8-32 screw
Mini uses #4-40 screw.
Ewt cutters come with these screws so do other ebay sellers and other random suppliers..

I made a few of these tools for my self and others on this forum.. :) good luck
Thanks for the info! I saw you have sold some of the ones you make, but I thought I would try my hand at it. I appreciate the help!
 

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ddiamondd said:
Thanks for the info! I saw you have sold some of the ones you make, but I thought I would try my hand at it. I appreciate the help!
No problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. We would love to see what you come up with..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. We would love to see what you come up with..
Once I have some made I will indeed post some pictures. I did buy a set of PSI turning tools, so I will need to use those to turn my first handle. Once I have that, I can make the rest using the carbide tools, so the first one will be a bit of learning process. Can't wait to start turning though.

Another thing I planned on trying is making my own hollowing system. I build snare drums (one of my favorites seen below)

, and up until now have used a router with a few jigs to round the shells. Now that I have a lathe, I want to turn them and use a hollowing system similar to this one -
 

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Before you build the captured bar system get back with us. I have built 2 and learned a lot from using them. The biggest thing is you don't need as much space between the main bar and the outrigger. Steve Sinner's rigs have the 2 bars welded together. I made my last one with only 4" between them but that was before I saw Steve's.
Bar size for the main bar is also important depending on how deep you need to hollow. a 3/4" bar starts chattering pretty bad beyond about 10 or 12" depending on the cutter you use.
 

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I built these four pictured, due to having a smaller lathe I had to have smaller handles. I really really like the longer one as it is solid when reaching into a bowl and getting deep.

I turned 3in round tangs on mine before gluing them into the handles.

I agree on making your own if you have the resources. They really aren't that hard to do and I already had the maple, scrap stock and the screws. It basically cost me the cutter to make em. Good luck

ForumRunner_20140113_195414.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I built these four pictured, due to having a smaller lathe I had to have smaller handles. I really really like the longer one as it is solid when reaching into a bowl and getting deep.

I turned 3in round tangs on mine before gluing them into the handles.

I agree on making your own if you have the resources. They really aren't that hard to do and I already had the maple, scrap stock and the screws. It basically cost me the cutter to make em. Good luck

View attachment 86938
When I made mine, I stayed w/ square bar stock and just put epoxy in the round holes in the handle. It worked just fine.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/first-homemade-lathe-gouge-19990/
Thanks for the input guys! I can't wait to get these started. The mech shop at my work has a mill I plan to use to cutout a little on the tip for the insert to sit flush in. Good info about the lengths and cutter tips too. Its a shame that site (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html )doesn't sell round ones as cheap as the square, but this is a good start.


Just curious, but where do you get blanks for the handles? I dont keep wood thick enough to use in my shop, and I just found some red oak and poplar 2x2x24 blanks at lowes, but would love some maple or something exotic once I get some practice in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One more question:

I will buy the square cutters from that site - cant beat that deal. But do you know anywhere I can get similar pricing on the round, triangle, or radius edge square bits? I might just buy the others from Capt Eddie - http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only
 

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ddiamondd said:
Thanks for the input guys! I can't wait to get these started. The mech shop at my work has a mill I plan to use to cutout a little on the tip for the insert to sit flush in. Good info about the lengths and cutter tips too. Its a shame that site (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html )doesn't sell round ones as cheap as the square, but this is a good start.

Just curious, but where do you get blanks for the handles? I dont keep wood thick enough to use in my shop, and I just found some red oak and poplar 2x2x24 blanks at lowes, but would love some maple or something exotic once I get some practice in.
Lamimation blanks work fine..
 

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ddiamondd said:
One more question:

I will buy the square cutters from that site - cant beat that deal. But do you know anywhere I can get similar pricing on the round, triangle, or radius edge square bits? I might just buy the others from Capt Eddie - http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only
Triangle cutters i have yet to find. But i get cutters from Eddie and on ebay.. They are cheaper from Eddie but not cheaper than from globaltooling..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quick update. Finally got the pieces cut, drilled, tapped, and shaped. I am going to use a mortising chisel to cut square holes in the handles, but I hope to have completed tools soon! I will have round, triangle, square, and radius edge square tools. Is there any benefit to cutting a small recess in the top of the tool for the cutting bit to sit into? I would prefer to leave them as is...because I am lazy...but if there is a perk I am unaware of I will make it happen.



 

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Quick update. Finally got the pieces cut, drilled, tapped, and shaped. I am going to use a mortising chisel to cut square holes in the handles, but I hope to have completed tools soon! I will have round, triangle, square, and radius edge square tools. Is there any benefit to cutting a small recess in the top of the tool for the cutting bit to sit into? I would prefer to leave them as is...because I am lazy...but if there is a perk I am unaware of I will make it happen.

http://s749.photobucket.com/user/ddiamondd/media/photo4.jpg.html

http://s749.photobucket.com/user/ddiamondd/media/photo3-1.jpg.html
The recess keeps the cutters square to he shaft and gives the cutter a flat face to sit on. I have had them crack and break before I cut the recess.. If your going to sell them I recommend u cut the recess and at the same height as the ewt tools. People don't like to re adjust the tools rest height when changing cutter type... Just my input :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The recess keeps the cutters square to he shaft and gives the cutter a flat face to sit on. I have had them crack and break before I cut the recess.. If your going to sell them I recommend u cut the recess and at the same height as the ewt tools. People don't like to re adjust the tools rest height when changing cutter type... Just my input :)
Thank you sir. Your opinion is indeed one I will take into consideration. I am, however, going to try and turn something with the tools as they are now, and see how they work. If need be, I will bring them to work tomorrow and cut a recess on the mill. I do not intend to sell these, so if they work for my use, I may just leave them be. Thanks!
 

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Your cutters are going to move on the shaft without a recess to hold them. Also and this is just a personal thing, but I started with traditional tools and got into a habit of running my thumb up the flute to clear chips from the tool. My first carbide tool was one that I made myself. The insert sat just proud of the shaft. First time I used my thumb to wipe it off I got a nice cut on my thumb. A brand new EWT cutter will lay you open like a razor. I now use a set of Rus's tools and his sit flush but I had to break that habit.
 

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Your cutters are going to move on the shaft without a recess to hold them. Also and this is just a personal thing, but I started with traditional tools and got into a habit of running my thumb up the flute to clear chips from the tool. My first carbide tool was one that I made myself. The insert sat just proud of the shaft. First time I used my thumb to wipe it off I got a nice cut on my thumb. A brand new EWT cutter will lay you open like a razor. I now use a set of Rus's tools and his sit flush but I had to break that habit.
Lol.. Been there done that...
 

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Handles

I've made a dozen handles from fallen limbs I found in the woods. Spalted maple makes a very pretty handle. Oak, hickory, even sweet gum works well too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good to know about the handles.

I used the mill at work to cut a recess in the tools today, and, finally, I have made my first cuts EVER on a lathe! It's nothing to brag about, but I started to turn a test handle from a poplar blank I had laying around. Needless to say, I am hooked. Can't wait to get going on more projects!



image-970615819.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay, first handle finished! I wasn't planning to use the poplar as a handle, but I think it will work just fine. The tool didn't go as far into the handle as I wanted, but for a first try, I am pleased. 13" handle with 10" of tool.


image-4060669282.jpg
 
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