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Here’s one for ya. Safety police prohibited

2K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  woodnthings 
#1 ·
#4 ·
It looked "off the wall", but by golly, it worked just fine including the unclamping feature.
It never would have occurred to me to use a miter saw in that configuration, but he apparently knew from previous use, it would cut a 4 x 4 clean through.
I would not have used a flimsy squeeze clamp, rather screw a support block under it AND a bar clamp to hold the saw.
 
#7 ·
Having built decks before, I wonder why the upright wasn't cut to length before installation? But then I worked alone and didn't have anyone to record my activities.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
In these days of laser levels, leave 'em long and cut 'em later.
I've also hung the joists level and cut them flush with a chain saw.
The post in the video looked about 4 ft above grade, maybe for a hand rail? or stairs?
It doesn't matter, just there's no context for the application of the miter saw in the video.
 
#14 ·
What's dumb about the way he did it George?
I thought it was ingenious and other than the flimsy clamp, it worked as needed.
Would I use that method, probably not. Not because it isn't safe, but because I'd have a hard time lifting the saw and clamping it at the same time.
 
#13 ·
I always set posts against a level string line along the line of posts by marking the post sitting on the bottom of the stone lined hole and then cutting it with the miter saw mounted in the work table. Didn't have an outdoor laser level.
 
#23 ·
Yes, most often that would be the preferred method! If I were making 2 or more of those cuts and needed a flush top, I'd make a 4 sided, hollow box that slides over the 4 X 4 posts and supports the shoe of the saw on all 4 sides as you work it around. It would fit any 4 X 4 post from that project and any others. Some 1" X 6" - 3/4" scrap, some brad nails and you're done:
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Font
 
#19 ·
If, and by if I mean never, I did this I'd have that sucker so clamped up it'd take longer to unclamp it than anything else. The only way it would be fall off there would be a tornado or perhaps a drunk driver hitting the post before I unclamped it.. DEFINITELY wouldn't be there with just a squeezy clamp.. Maybe I'm a born coward, but I tend to enjoy having all my arms and legs still attached to the rest of me at the end of the day.
 
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#20 ·
If, and by if I mean never, I did this I'd have that sucker so clamped up it'd take longer to unclamp it than anything else. The only way it would be fall off there would be a tornado or perhaps a drunk driver hitting the post before I unclamped it..
Suit yourself, but the flimsy squeeze clamp did a pretty fair job ... right up until the offcut fell down and knocked it off.
It's job was finished and it knew that. .... "I'm done here."
Too many clamps might tip the post over in the hole from the weight?
 
#24 ·
I've been cutting them with a circular saw for 40yrs. But, I guess if you don't have circular saw skills, that seems like a perfectly acceptable way to do it. Way better than a sawzall. I actually have that exact Metabo miter saw for dragging around on job sites. It's a great little saw for most things. That Metabo miter saw is very lightweight which kinda makes that job doable. I got a Dewalt DW779 that I very rarely use on the job unless I need the large capacity, otherwise it's relegated to the wood shop. It weighs a ton and I don't want it banging around the truck.
 
#26 ·
I thought it worked fine. I would probably have clamped it better if, now that i have seen the arrangement, i ever use it. I expect we have all seen tools used in less than conventional ways. Some things we have a tolerance for, others, not so much. I watched a guy free cut with a table saw once and I have seen it on YouTube as well. An action I am sure I would never do. But, if they are comfortable doing it, who am I to judge? Truth is, nothing about that had me cringing.
 
#28 ·
If you ever need to "free cut" with a table saw use this tip. Install the splitter plate if you don't have one already.
The wider plate of a splitter will steer the work straight down the kerf and prevent any major mis-orientation of the blade.
The kerf of the blade is greater than the plate, but not by much so you can "steer" it a small amount.
The splitter maintains more of a straight cut than without it.
 
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