[celticpiping]

I'm just wondering: concerning the Nova Live Center System cup center for boring through a hollow tailstock:

once you have the cup center point situated on the work-piece, how exactly does the cup then get re-aligned on center to begin boring, once you punch out the point?

There must be something silly I'm missing.. Is this designed for super soft wood, where the point would "sink" into the wood & the cup traces a circle for mounting?thanks lads,Rich

 

[Steve Neul]

Not exactly sure what the project is but to bore through the middle you would need the wood attached to a faceplate or in a wood chuck and not use the tail stock at all other than a chuck and a drill bit.

 

[Maylar]

I'm just wondering: concerning the Nova Live Center System cup center for boring through a hollow tailstock:

once you have the cup center point situated on the work-piece, how exactly does the cup then get re-aligned on center to begin boring, once you punch out the point?

There must be something silly I'm missing.. Is this designed for super soft wood, where the point would "sink" into the wood & the cup traces a circle for mounting?thanks lads,Rich

I think you have it right. The cup would need to trace a circle that could be used for remounting. With a dead cup center (no bearing) that happens even on the hardest woods, but with that live center it may be less obvious.

Or... use a pointed bar through the tailstock and center to get the spindle centered again, and replace that with your drill bit for boring. Did the Nova center come with instructions?

 

[celticpiping]

I think you have it right. The cup would need to trace a circle that could be used for remounting. With a dead cup center (no bearing) that happens even on the hardest woods, but with that live center it may be less obvious.

Or... use a pointed bar through the tailstock and center to get the spindle centered again, and replace that with your drill bit for boring. Did the Nova center come with instructions?

yeah, I did see a fellow on youtube using the bar through tailstock to center the work.
It would have to be same diameter or barely under to be accurate though..

I suppose I could also use a compass & once I have center marked, scribe a circle of same diameter as the cup...
hmm
I'll recheck instructions: I think they were somewhat sparse..

Thanks much for the reply!

Cheers,
Rich

 

[celticpiping]

Not exactly sure what the project is but to bore through the middle you would need the wood attached to a faceplate or in a wood chuck and not use the tail stock at all other than a chuck and a drill bit.

Hi Steve,

I'm long hole boring through square stock(approx 16" long)
Starting with 5/16" (using a d-bit), then plan on stepping from 1/4" to 1/2", then reaming smooth to achieve a conical bore.


Rich

 

[woodnthings]

That makes no sense to me

Hi Steve,

I'm long hole boring through square stock(approx 16" long)
Starting with 5/16" (using a d-bit), then plan on stepping from 1/4" to 1/2", then reaming smooth to achieve a conical bore.


Rich

To get a conical bore you would need a very long tapered reamer, and you'd have to make that. The hole must progress from largest at the tail stock to smallest nearest the headstock. You can't drill the larger hole at the end.
I don't know why you would need a conical and "smooth" hole on the inside of a square stock. No one will ever see it. What is going inside this object?
:vs_cool:

 

[celticpiping]

To get a conical bore you would need a very long tapered reamer, and you'd have to make that. The hole must progress from largest at the tail stock to smallest nearest the headstock. You can't drill the larger hole at the end.
I don't know why you would need a conical and "smooth" hole on the inside of a square stock. No one will ever see it. What is going inside this object?
:vs_cool:

Indeed... I'll be making my own reamers: most who undertake this particular work do.
Nothing going inside except air...
This is a musical instrument.
I only said square, because the bore is made before turning down to round.


rich

 

[celticpiping]

I think I might have my solution: which is essentially I alluded to above: using a bar to poke through the tailstock & cone, to center the thing.

 

[woodnthings]

making a tapered reamer

Indeed... I'll be making my own reamers: most who undertake this particular work do.
Nothing going inside except air...
This is a musical instrument.
I only said square, because the bore is made before turning down to round.


rich

I would look closely at a 1/2" rat tail file which is hardened steel and has a taper of approximately the correct dimensions. Grind a groove down the length with a cut off wheel leaving a sharp edge which will cut wood and leave a path for the saw dust to travel out. The files are brittle and won't take much torque, but as close to ready made as anything I can think of.

 

[Steve Neul]

Wood doesn't like being bored like that. The drill bit tends to follow the soft grain so there is no telling where it would come out the other end or even if it would make it to the other end before coming out the side. I would be inclined to make two pieces of wood with a 1/2" cove down the center and then glue them together. You could glue a short dowel in the ends and do your turning work and then either cut the ends off or just drill out the dowels on the ends.

 

[celticpiping]

I would look closely at a 1/2" rat tail file which is hardened steel and has a taper of approximately the correct dimensions. Grind a groove down the length with a cut off wheel leaving a sharp edge which will cut wood and leave a path for the saw dust to travel out. The files are brittle and won't take much torque, but as close to ready made as anything I can think of.

oooh good one!


I'm going to look into that..
Thanks,
Rich

 

[celticpiping]

Wood doesn't like being bored like that. The drill bit tends to follow the soft grain so there is no telling where it would come out the other end or even if it would make it to the other end before coming out the side. I would be inclined to make two pieces of wood with a 1/2" cove down the center and then glue them together. You could glue a short dowel in the ends and do your turning work and then either cut the ends off or just drill out the dowels on the ends.

correct sir.
Which is why I've ground myself a d-bit from 5/16" steel round from Lowes..

I actually did a test run over the last day on a piece of Poplar , and the bit works, though I failed to get the two holes to meet(I bored from both ends)
I think I was close, which is heartening.. With a little more practice, I'll be boring like a banshee!


Rich
ps. the cove solution would be fine probably for most other applications, but this is extremely specific, and requires a conical bore in a solid wood piece.

 

[Tool Agnostic]

To get a conical bore you would need a very long tapered reamer, and you'd have to make that. The hole must progress from largest at the tail stock to smallest nearest the headstock. You can't drill the larger hole at the end.
I don't know why you would need a conical and "smooth" hole on the inside of a square stock. No one will ever see it. What is going inside this object?
:vs_cool:

Stick a double reed in one end and drill a few holes along its length to get a square oboe?

 

[celticpiping]

Stick a double reed in one end and drill a few holes along its length to get a square oboe?

introducing..... the 'Squoboe'


:vs_laugh: