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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an old Craftsman 10" bench top table saw (I think it's a model 113) that still works pretty well EXCEPT for the rip fence - I can't seem to get it square to the blade without spending about 10 minutes every time I need to move it. Then, after it measures square to the blade, the cut isn't straight. I plan to flip the machine over to check out the motor mountings (maybe the whole motor/blade assembly is moving under a load).
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement rip fence? (It would have to be a "Universal" fence since my old saw is no longer supported by Sears/Craftsman).
Or does anyone have other ideas about what could be screwy (except the operator)?
 

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where's my table saw?
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You won't regret upgrading your fence, if you want to put the money into that saw. It's just something to think about. You might first try going through all the motor attachments, and supports (connections and fasteners} under the saw to check for any that could be snugged up. You may want to change out some washers. You could be getting some slippage there.

If your saw has miter slots, first check to see if the blade is parallel to them. If so, check out the fence itself for loose fasteners, and how it fastens to the type rail is on the saw. I will say, that even with my buying a brand new Unisaw around 1971 or so, the OEM fence always seemed to be needed to be tapped.

Just replacing the fence with an aftermarket one may not completely solve your problem, if there remains some ability for the saw arbor to move.









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The 113 doesn't tell much about the saw, the numbers after 113 would tell us better as to what you have, photos also. If it's a cast iron top 27" front to back with belt drive motor it is worth upgrading. If it's an aluminum top direct drive motor I wouldn't spend any money on it.
 

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I agree. that if your saw is a direct drive, flex drive, or had an aluminum top, it's not worth investing money in.
If you mentioned your general area, someone might have a Biesemeyer fence you might be interested in.
The 113 number, just identifies the manufacturer of the saw. 113, being Emerson.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the fast responses everyone! It is a direct drive, aluminum top and the wood I've been cutting is 1-1/2" hard maple (kinda tough). I've also noticed that the blade (almost new Diablo) will scorch the wood at the first couple of inches of the cut and that the motor labors a bit throughout the cut.
Have I got a POS saw?
 

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where's my table saw?
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definitely POS

Not POS, but low end. A good learner saw that it appears you are now outgrowing.
OK, less than useable... :blink:
Not worth upgrading. :no:
Direct drive saws are at the bottom of the table saw food chain, with one exception I am aware of. Early Craftsman '80's 12" saws were direct drive, 220 V induction motors at about 3 HP. I have several and they are great.
Back to your issue, look on Craig's List for a "contractor style" Craftsman saw, 10" motor hanging out the back. If you find one for $100 or so, then you can upgrade that one with a new fence mentioned above and have a saw that will serve your needs for a long time. Mine lasted 40 years and then I chose to part it out.
The only thing that goes wrong with those older C-man/Emerson built saws is the arbor bearing MAY need replacing from over use or under use.

A new contractor saw will be the next step up from used and Grizzly and Rigid have some. Up from there would be a Hybrid where the motor is contained within the cabinet and it will have a mulit groove flat belt drive. They are nice also new or used. Grizzly had an issue with theirs and may have fixed it by now, I donno?

If you are ever going to get "serious" about woodworking, look for a name brand used cabinet saw, General, Powermatic, Jet, Delta Walker Turner, Boice Crane, BUT the older saws will not have parts available, and now Delta's parts and service is minimal. :thumbdown:

See this thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/my-yearly-delta-parts-rant-dont-buy-delta-57699/
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE! I found more problems

First off, the model number is 3400.
I flipped the saw over to inspect for loose fasteners. Didn't find any.
I loosened the four screws that hold the top to the base, and was able to "tweak" the top enough that the blade is now square to the top.
Another problem was that the blade angle would not return to absolute vertical (stayed tilted at about 1 degree, no matter how hard I pushed it). Found that one of the screws recessed in the table top was an adjuster just for that stop.
So, now the blade runs square to the table top (and miter slot) and is no longer tilted. The fence remains the issue.
Thanks for all the responses!:smile:
 
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