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i would determine if i wanted a right or a left tilt saw. the linked delta is a right tilt. there's a reason almost all saws sold in the last 10 years have been left tilts and that reason is...........safety.
but isn't the space to the left of the blade on right tilts usually limited to ~ 12" where most of the rip capacity is to the right of the blade? so bevel rips wider than 12" would still wind up being done to the right of the blade, with the blade tilting towards the fence. or am i missing something?The Delta is definitely a right tilt saw. Only a concern when you do bevel cuts, and even then, most owners of right tilt saws just move the fence to the other side of the blade and achieve a similar scenario to left tilt. A fence upgrade is mandatory with that one, it's just not near top tier by today's standards.
\So I actually noticed a ts2424 pop up in a listing for a lot of tools last night...guy said he would sell it for $150 so I jumped right on it. Got a ryobi disc/belt sander with 3 new belts for 50 too.
That crafstman pro just posted is nice though.
Now I just need to start looking into a miter gauge,
incra v27. great bang for the buck
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007UQ2DW/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=25536313207&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5136991341782082949&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_20cv91dgdd_e
riving knife
sorry, there is no way to add a true riving knife to that model saw. many have tired adn failed. if you can manage it, there are a lot of users who would be interested in how. suggest ebay or CL for the OEM splitter/blade guard assembly.
and blade inserts!
i assume you mean zero clearance inserts. most users make their own. google zero clearance inserts and you'll get more than a few videos on how to easily make your own inexpensively and easily
and the fence can be slid to the right for greater rip capacity. how about a pic of this recent acquisition.Thanks guys! Unfortunately the one I have doesn't have a herculift, though I will start searching eBay.
good luck. they are fairly hard to find.
I did mean zero clearance insert or blade insert, looks like finding the factory splitter is the closest I'll get to arriving knife. I have seen a fence upgrade to give me more cutting capacity right of the blade but it looks like maybe I can just move the existing one over and use a new tape.anybody know of router table attachments for these?
any 27" deep CI table should work, although it may be necessary to drill some new holes.
I will get some pics after this weekend. I was pretty disappointed going out of town right after I picked it up but then if I didn't have this job I couldn't afford such fun toys.
this worked very well for me when i refurbished a unisaw....I may try it out with steel wool first as I have 3 diff grades of the real and much more manly versions of this stuff handy already......
cared for properly, that saw is likely all a hobbyist will ever need. the included mobile base, while not the best, is certainly adequate to moving that saw around the shop. here's hoping it provides you with years of trouble free service.toolguy you did an amazing job there, did you finish or stain/paint the iron in any way after cleaning?
johnson's paste wax
I apologize if that's in the video, I'm at work and can't watch yet!
And no, it didnt. I was told by Ridgid I can go to Home depot and order these items though.
based on my experience with HD, i'd frankly be surprised if that would work. but they are usually available on ebay,like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Sears-Blade-Guard-Assembly-27-Table-10-Table-Saw-113-298762-Parts-/200978354753?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecb3e5241
For $150 I'm pretty happy. A little better than that actually, I got a 30x25' heavy duty tarp to cover it on the way home for free! I've paid $50 for slightly smaller versions of heavier duty tarps like that. To do any better I think I'd have had to wait patiently for many more months than I already had.