That old Delta is a solid starter saw....it's full size, cast iron, belt drive, and has good upside potential. The fence isn't the best, but it'll work. The wings are steel, but could be upgraded. $250 isn't a steal, but it's not outrageous....I'd probably offer $175 to $200. With a good blade and good alignment, it should be a good saw. There's not much else on CL in your area that I spotted.
Help with choosing a table saw
Hello everyone!
Thanks in advance for any help! I am looking to finally upgrade my taskforce (dont laugh) benchtop table saw to something that will actually cut straight. Being able to change the blade will probably be nice too, mine has a very short arbor nut that I may need to original wrench to remove. I am a hobbyist but frequently run into the need to make 1-3 ft rip cuts. I am also an obsessive diy-er, so anything I get I would very much like to be upgrade-able. I've seen many plans for adding longer fences and built-around tables for some of the more popular saws like the Delta Model 10.
Where I run into trouble is finding places to purchase accessories like riving knives, blade guards and table extensions, and even more basic in figuring out whether or not I can even use them with a given saw.
Would those who have the time and inclination to help be willing to take a look at the following craigslist link and see if this table saw fits the bill?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/bfs/4103020833.html
By the way I've been trolling this site for table saw info for weeks, glad to finally be posting!
Thanks in advance for any help! I am looking to finally upgrade my taskforce (dont laugh) benchtop table saw to something that will actually cut straight. Being able to change the blade will probably be nice too, mine has a very short arbor nut that I may need to original wrench to remove. I am a hobbyist but frequently run into the need to make 1-3 ft rip cuts. I am also an obsessive diy-er, so anything I get I would very much like to be upgrade-able. I've seen many plans for adding longer fences and built-around tables for some of the more popular saws like the Delta Model 10.
Where I run into trouble is finding places to purchase accessories like riving knives, blade guards and table extensions, and even more basic in figuring out whether or not I can even use them with a given saw.
Would those who have the time and inclination to help be willing to take a look at the following craigslist link and see if this table saw fits the bill?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/bfs/4103020833.html
By the way I've been trolling this site for table saw info for weeks, glad to finally be posting!
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
i would determine if i wanted a right or a left tilt saw. the linked delta is a right tilt. there's a reason almost all saws sold in the last 10 years have been left tilts and that reason is...........safety.
If I zoom in and squint a lot, it looks to be a right tilt. It is always hard to tell from Craig's List pictures though :smile:i would determine if i wanted a right or a left tilt saw. the linked delta is a right tilt. there's a reason almost all saws sold in the last 10 years have been left tilts and that reason is...........safety.
Stuff pops up occasionally, but never at the right time. There have been a few ridgid contractor style saws but I either don't have the money or it's gone too fast.That old Delta is a solid starter saw....it's full size, cast iron, belt drive, and has good upside potential. The fence isn't the best, but it'll work. The wings are steel, but could be upgraded. $250 isn't a steal, but it's not outrageous....I'd probably offer $175 to $200. With a good blade and good alignment, it should be a good saw. There's not much else on CL in your area that I spotted.
I planned to upgrade for sure, just for the fun of it if nothing else. And agreed on the price offering too.
The right tilt issue concerns me. I'll contact the seller and see for sure but I would like to not worry about stakes of wood impaling me when trying to cut a bevel.
In terms of the ability to add on a new fence, router table extensions and zero clearance inserts, is this a good saw?
The Delta is definitely a right tilt saw. Only a concern when you do bevel cuts, and even then, most owners of right tilt saws just move the fence to the other side of the blade and achieve a similar scenario to left tilt. A fence upgrade is mandatory with that one, it's just not near top tier by today's standards.Stuff pops up occasionally, but never at the right time. There have been a few ridgid contractor style saws but I either don't have the money or it's gone too fast.
I planned to upgrade for sure, just for the fun of it if nothing else. And agreed on the price offering too.
The right tilt issue concerns me. I'll contact the seller and see for sure but I would like to not worry about stakes of wood impaling me when trying to cut a bevel.
In terms of the ability to add on a new fence, router table extensions and zero clearance inserts, is this a good saw?
but isn't the space to the left of the blade on right tilts usually limited to ~ 12" where most of the rip capacity is to the right of the blade? so bevel rips wider than 12" would still wind up being done to the right of the blade, with the blade tilting towards the fence. or am i missing something?The Delta is definitely a right tilt saw. Only a concern when you do bevel cuts, and even then, most owners of right tilt saws just move the fence to the other side of the blade and achieve a similar scenario to left tilt. A fence upgrade is mandatory with that one, it's just not near top tier by today's standards.
It varies by saw, and can often be modified if needed, but it's usually less capacity than is on the right side. The question for the OP is whether or not that makes it a show stopper on a solid $250 saw. Usually something's gotta give in that price range...tilt direction is a matter of preference, and it applies only to whatever percentage of boards get bevel cuts, which is a small percentage for most of us. IMO it's a better compromise than most.but isn't the space to the left of the blade on right tilts usually limited to ~ 12" where most of the rip capacity is to the right of the blade? so bevel rips wider than 12" would still wind up being done to the right of the blade, with the blade tilting towards the fence. or am i missing something?
There is a new listing that's a bit overpriced IMO, but has potential and an upgraded fence.
http://duluth.craigslist.org/tls/4129853741.html
Here's another with a router and router table - http://duluth.craigslist.org/tls/4103305217.html
That first one was way out of line on price. That is really a $150 saw...MAYBE closer to $200 if it is in really cherry condition....
Here's another with a router and router table - http://duluth.craigslist.org/tls/4103305217.html
The second saw, though, may not be too bad of a deal. The cast iron router wing is great, it has a decent fence, and it has an aftermarket mobile base. Maybe you can talk him into throwing in that DeWalt router
either of those linked c-man saws is preferable, IMHO, to the delta. prices may be $50-100 out of line, but they will last for many more years if not abused. the second c-man scott linked would be a fair deal @ $300, assuming the splitter/blade guard is available. both of the c-man saws are left tilt.
So I actually noticed a ts2424 pop up in a listing for a lot of tools last night...guy said he would sell it for $150 so I jumped right on it. Got a ryobi disc/belt sander with 3 new belts for 50 too.
That crafstman pro just posted is nice though.
Now I just need to start looking into a miter gauge, riving knife and blade inserts!
That crafstman pro just posted is nice though.
Now I just need to start looking into a miter gauge, riving knife and blade inserts!
Excellent! Get it aligned, and put a good blade on it....you'll be set. Please post some pics! :thumbsup:So I actually noticed a ts2424 pop up in a listing for a lot of tools last night...guy said he would sell it for $150 so I jumped right on it. Got a ryobi disc/belt sander with 3 new belts for 50 too.
That crafstman pro just posted is nice though.
Now I just need to start looking into a miter gauge, riving knife and blade inserts!
\So I actually noticed a ts2424 pop up in a listing for a lot of tools last night...guy said he would sell it for $150 so I jumped right on it. Got a ryobi disc/belt sander with 3 new belts for 50 too.
That crafstman pro just posted is nice though.
Now I just need to start looking into a miter gauge,
incra v27. great bang for the buck
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007UQ2DW/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=25536313207&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5136991341782082949&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_20cv91dgdd_e
riving knife
sorry, there is no way to add a true riving knife to that model saw. many have tired adn failed. if you can manage it, there are a lot of users who would be interested in how. suggest ebay or CL for the OEM splitter/blade guard assembly.
and blade inserts!
i assume you mean zero clearance inserts. most users make their own. google zero clearance inserts and you'll get more than a few videos on how to easily make your own inexpensively and easily
the 2424 is a great saw. herc-u-lift, 1.5 hp dual voltage motor, CI webbed extension wings, CI table, micro adjusters on the rear trunion for adjusting blade to miter slot parallelism and a lifetime guaranty against manufacturing defects that attaches to the saw regardless of ownership. i have a 2412 (entry level version) and i kept it, and a related c-man 113 series TS, over a unisaw.
now how about a few pics of your new toy? no pics, it didn't happen.
Thanks guys! Unfortunately the one I have doesn't have a herculift, though I will start searching eBay.
I did mean zero clearance insert or blade insert, looks like finding the factory splitter is the closest I'll get to arriving knife. I have seen a fence upgrade to give me more cutting capacity right of the blade but it looks like maybe I can just move the existing one over and use a new tape.anybody know of router table attachments for these?
I will get some pics after this weekend. I was pretty disappointed going out of town right after I picked it up but then if I didn't have this job I couldn't afford such fun toys.
I did mean zero clearance insert or blade insert, looks like finding the factory splitter is the closest I'll get to arriving knife. I have seen a fence upgrade to give me more cutting capacity right of the blade but it looks like maybe I can just move the existing one over and use a new tape.anybody know of router table attachments for these?
I will get some pics after this weekend. I was pretty disappointed going out of town right after I picked it up but then if I didn't have this job I couldn't afford such fun toys.
and the fence can be slid to the right for greater rip capacity. how about a pic of this recent acquisition.Thanks guys! Unfortunately the one I have doesn't have a herculift, though I will start searching eBay.
good luck. they are fairly hard to find.
I did mean zero clearance insert or blade insert, looks like finding the factory splitter is the closest I'll get to arriving knife. I have seen a fence upgrade to give me more cutting capacity right of the blade but it looks like maybe I can just move the existing one over and use a new tape.anybody know of router table attachments for these?
any 27" deep CI table should work, although it may be necessary to drill some new holes.
I will get some pics after this weekend. I was pretty disappointed going out of town right after I picked it up but then if I didn't have this job I couldn't afford such fun toys.
pics or it didn't happen
First up, some pics! Just picked up a featherboard/angle finder from harbor freight too....can't wait to cut something.
Though it may be difficult to see in the pics, this thing is lousy with sawdust. And the blade looks/feels dull, though the one test cut i did on some soft scrap wood it cut like butter. I attribute this more to the smoothness of the saw then the sawdust glazed blade though. Maybe after I shine her up I'll take some more.
Any suggestions on cleaning up the light surface rust on the table? I know it doesn't really affect any functionality, but I like my stuff to look nice. For instance, all the **** everywhere in my garage is about to drive me insane lol
First up, some pics! Just picked up a featherboard/angle finder from harbor freight too....can't wait to cut something.
Though it may be difficult to see in the pics, this thing is lousy with sawdust. And the blade looks/feels dull, though the one test cut i did on some soft scrap wood it cut like butter. I attribute this more to the smoothness of the saw then the sawdust glazed blade though. Maybe after I shine her up I'll take some more.
Any suggestions on cleaning up the light surface rust on the table? I know it doesn't really affect any functionality, but I like my stuff to look nice. For instance, all the **** everywhere in my garage is about to drive me insane lol
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That's $150 well spent. :thumbsup:
That is a heck of a saw for that money--nice work!
As for cleanup, vacuum everywhere first. Household cleaners are fine for the painted bits (simple green, etc). If there is any surface rust, start with a scotch brite pad (abrasive green ones, not the Teflon safe kit her variety!) and some WD-40. If the elevation adjustment screw or tilt screw mechanisms need lubrication, go for some kind of dry lube, or else they will get all plugged up with sawdust. As always, it would be a great idea to verify that the blade, fence, and miter slots are all parallel with some careful measurements. Also, I would recommend checking EVERY bolt to make sure it is tight--after all, who knows where a used tool has been!
Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk
As for cleanup, vacuum everywhere first. Household cleaners are fine for the painted bits (simple green, etc). If there is any surface rust, start with a scotch brite pad (abrasive green ones, not the Teflon safe kit her variety!) and some WD-40. If the elevation adjustment screw or tilt screw mechanisms need lubrication, go for some kind of dry lube, or else they will get all plugged up with sawdust. As always, it would be a great idea to verify that the blade, fence, and miter slots are all parallel with some careful measurements. Also, I would recommend checking EVERY bolt to make sure it is tight--after all, who knows where a used tool has been!
Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk
Thanks for all the advice guys!
I may try it out with steel wool first as I have 3 diff grades of the real and much more manly versions of this stuff handy already. I figured the air compressor and blow gun would come in handy cleaning this off, and I have a mini shop vac to augment anything else. I spoke with Ridgid yesterday and got their incredibly extensive manual. This thing reads like a general tablesaw primer as well as being specific to the tool so I am actually enjoying that!
I may make myself another crosscut sled instead of shelling out the money for a gauge, even though that incra posted is positively awesome for the price. Seems like every scenario I can imagine myself having the need for a miter gauge the crosscut sled would be safer and perhaps easier. PLUS...I get to make it. And that increases the fun factor.
I may try it out with steel wool first as I have 3 diff grades of the real and much more manly versions of this stuff handy already. I figured the air compressor and blow gun would come in handy cleaning this off, and I have a mini shop vac to augment anything else. I spoke with Ridgid yesterday and got their incredibly extensive manual. This thing reads like a general tablesaw primer as well as being specific to the tool so I am actually enjoying that!
I may make myself another crosscut sled instead of shelling out the money for a gauge, even though that incra posted is positively awesome for the price. Seems like every scenario I can imagine myself having the need for a miter gauge the crosscut sled would be safer and perhaps easier. PLUS...I get to make it. And that increases the fun factor.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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