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Is this a desirable/expected finish for a solid maple wood table?

  • Yes, the table top is beautiful.

  • No, this was not finished correctly.

Help w/ Maple Table Stain

1021 Views 9 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  GCTony
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Please help. I ordered a custom maple wood table from a local carpenter and asked for a smooth, traditional/contemporary (not rustic) light to medium finish. I had read that maple could be hard to stain but never came across photos with this much blotchiness and color variation. I do like the color on some of the legs (photo 1) but am particularly disappointed by the top surface and how it almost looks dirty in places. This is Minwax golden oak stain finished with 4 coats of polyeurethane.Carpenter says this is just what the wood did and what maple looks like.

Why is the stain so uneven with so much variation? Is this a desirable/expected finish for a solid maple wood table... or did something go wrong?

We’ve already paid 50% deposit. I want to be fair to carpenter and am trying to decide next steps.

If we walk away from the table and/or the carpenter is able to find another buyer for this table and/or we start over with a new carpenter, how can we avoid getting this look again?

Or is this what maple wood looks like when hand stained and I just need to adjust my expectations?

Any and all recommendations appreciated.

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Dollars to Donuts the wood was not sealed prior to applying the stain. This is exactly what I would expect from coloring unsealed maple, regardless of the coloring medium. Maple will blotch like this if not sealed properly before coloring. It's not necessarily the fault of the stain. I've used MW Golden Oak before and it's worked just fine. If this were mine, I'd take the top back down to bare wood, use a stripper to try to remove any remaining stain from the pores of the wood, wash the top to remove any residual stripper, sand, seal, and re-stain the top. Same for the aprons too.
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Minwax (but not just that brand of stain) can soak into the wood and look OK when wiped off, then bleed back to the surface later. This can happen quite awhile after the staining is done and the worker walks away (like an hour or so). It tends to happen when the temperature of the air and wood is low (but I can't give you an exact temperature). Humidity might also play into it. It looks to me like this is what happened, but it's hard to tell from pictures.

My buddy used a combination of the same stain (Minwax golden oak) with a bit of Minwax walnut to darken the color, on red oak. It looked great when he was done. The next morning the stain had bled back out of the grain onto the surface and looked like what you are showing. The basement was cool (maybe 60 degrees) and humid/damp. The suggestion to prevent it in the future (I believe he call Minwax) was to add Japan Drier to the stain. Japan Drier accelerates the drying ability of oil-based finishes. I think the idea is that it would cut down on the dry time and hopefully the stain would dry before it bled out of the grain.
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Any time you stain an open grain wood like oak, bleed back is bound to happen. You have to stand by and wipe the bleed back off before is dries on the surface.
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OK, I apologize but I'm going on a rant now.

The put it bluntly, it's a train wreck & I can't believe he even showed it to you, much less made a comment like that. Sure, maple does that, so you figure it looks ok? I'm sorry and he may be a nice guy, but that comment indicates he is either not knowledgeable, or doesn't care what he sends out the door with his name on it.

No way I would accept it. I would demand it either be sanded down or build a new top. NO STAIN & NO DYE. Tell him you want a non-yellowing clear coat only, something like Polyacrylic or any of the Target Coatings.

While you're at it, he should round over or profile the edges and get rid of the sharp corners. ;)

Hope it works out.
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Maybe the operative word here is the statement that the maker is a carpenter, rather than furniture maker. Not slamming carpenters, but this piece is not done properly. The pic below is dyed maple with polyurethane topcoat. It was sealed with 50/50 cut Sealcoat sealer prior to being colored.
Wood Table Machine tool Hardwood Flooring
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Please help. I ordered a custom maple wood table from a local carpenter and asked for a smooth, traditional/contemporary (not rustic) light to medium finish. I had read that maple could be hard to stain but never came across photos with this much blotchiness and color variation. I do like the color on some of the legs (photo 1) but am particularly disappointed by the top surface and how it almost looks dirty in places. This is Minwax golden oak stain finished with 4 coats of polyeurethane.Carpenter says this is just what the wood did and what maple looks like.

Why is the stain so uneven with so much variation? Is this a desirable/expected finish for a solid maple wood table... or did something go wrong?

We’ve already paid 50% deposit. I want to be fair to carpenter and am trying to decide next steps.

If we walk away from the table and/or the carpenter is able to find another buyer for this table and/or we start over with a new carpenter, how can we avoid getting this look again?

Or is this what maple wood looks like when hand stained and I just need to adjust my expectations?

Any and all recommendations appreciated.
I do not like using Minwax on anything where an even finish is being sought, which is almost everything with me. When I do maple I seal it with dewaxed shellac, self mixed and fresh. I then add dye to shellac and spray a few thin coats to build the color I am looking for. I topcoat with whatever clear coat I have decided to use.

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Please help. I ordered a custom maple wood table from a local carpenter and asked for a smooth, traditional/contemporary (not rustic) light to medium finish. I had read that maple could be hard to stain but never came across photos with this much blotchiness and color variation. I do like the color on some of the legs (photo 1) but am particularly disappointed by the top surface and how it almost looks dirty in places. This is Minwax golden oak stain finished with 4 coats of polyeurethane.Carpenter says this is just what the wood did and what maple looks like.

Why is the stain so uneven with so much variation? Is this a desirable/expected finish for a solid maple wood table... or did something go wrong?

We’ve already paid 50% deposit. I want to be fair to carpenter and am trying to decide next steps.

If we walk away from the table and/or the carpenter is able to find another buyer for this table and/or we start over with a new carpenter, how can we avoid getting this look again?

Or is this what maple wood looks like when hand stained and I just need to adjust my expectations?

Any and all recommendations appreciated.
It's what the wood does if the finisher doesn't know how to finish maple. You have to use some kind of wood conditioner when staining maple. Now for the second part, what kind of polyurethane did the guy use? If it is oil based the table will yellow more and more as it ages until it looks nearly orange. That light of a color some kind of acrylic finish is needed to remain clear. A water based polyurethane would do that or there are a few kinds of lacquer which could be used.

Maple is one of the woods prone to go blotchy. It's because the wood has hard and soft places in it and the soft places absorb more of the stain. A wood conditioner is a sealer which the soft portions of the wood absorb more of the conditioner so when a stain is applied it stains more unform. The conditioner is just something that is used automatically when working with wood prone to go blotchy.

From where the table is now the only fix would be to strip the finish, sand it and start over. The blotchy legs it may be necessary to use bleach as it can't be adequately sanded.
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The finish can be salvaged with work, but the maker definitely messed that up.
I do not like using Minwax on anything where an even finish is being sought, which is almost everything with me. When I do maple I seal it with dewaxed shellac, self mixed and fresh. I then add dye to shellac and spray a few thin coats to build the color I am looking for. I topcoat with whatever clear coat I have decided to use.
This is exactly how I finish maple but will add: No oil based finises on maple, especially soft maple. My clear would be a water borne. Anything oil over light colored maple with turn "orange/yellow/amber" with time.

If I messed up that piece and had to fix it I would probably just build a new one, probably quicker and easier. Option #2 I would "paint" the base and sand the top down to raw wood and stain/refinish it.
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