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Discussion Starter #1
First things first Happy Holidays to all

I am planning on making some frames which will be the following size

24"W x 48"H x 8"D wood thickness .75"

I do not have a miter saw or table saw plus I'm in an apartment so I need to make the cuts by hand. I tried finding a miter box for the 45 degree cuts but no luck finding one to accommodate 8" D.

I was thinking of cutting the miter box in half and attaching it to a piece of wood in order to make it wider.

The frames will be used for acoustic panels so they do not need to be crazy strong

Any help / tips on the following would be much appreciated:

1. Besides for cutting the miter box any other ideas on cutting this size by hand?

2. How to make sure everything will come out square?

3. Best clamps / tools / techniques to glue the corners of frame together?

Thanks
 

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For what your working with, hand tools, your best option is making half lap joints. You can do it by just marking out your cut lines and staying on them when you saw. You'll need a saw horse clamp or some other way to hold the boards while you saw. Will be very strong after glue up, just use a square during glue up before you clamp. Work on one corner at a time, but complete them all before the glue sets to ensure your square, if you don't have a square, you can check square by measuring from one corner to the other in an X fashion after your done. (top left to bottom right, then top right to bottom left) If it is square the corner to corner distance will be the same both ways.

edit: Added link to give you an idea of how to do it, refer to first joint half lap 90 corner, many others available, all can be done with hand tools.

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/lap-woodworking-joints.html
 

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John
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Approaching the thing as a very large drawer, locking rabbets would work and could be done with a hand saw, chisel and great deal of care. They would be superior to simple butt joints, IMO, but more difficult to accomplish with just hand tools. :smile:
 

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The boxes are constructed on edge (8" D) not laying flat... :smile:

hhhmmm...I'm not reading it that way, how did you come up with that, I have re-read it a couple times now, maybe we need more info from the OP...:laughing:...but ya I agree if he is doing it that way. I assumed the flat layout when he said the board was to wide for his miter box and he was gonna cut it in half, which wouldn't help if the board was on end. I was thinking his miter box was not 8 inch wide.
 

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I read the post... Here are the dimensions he posted. (again)

24"W x 48"H x 8"D wood thickness .75" :whistling2:

Will I know what he posted, but people transpose depth and thickness all the time, I wasn't going by that....most acoustic panels don't stick out from the wall by 8 inches, so I assume he is making a standard frame and stapling the acoustic panel to it and mounting it a wall so the only comes out 3/4" from the wall. He is just using 8 inch boards for the frame. We will probably need his expanded explanation of what he doing, either way he is covered...:laughing:
 

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where's my table saw?
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huh?

8"deep! not flat...
butt joints are the only method with out power tools miter saws etc.
:yes:
 
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where's my table saw?
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Hope this helps, best I can do for now since I'm stuck in the car

And yes these will stick out 8" from the wall they are for the rear wall

The frames will be used for acoustic panels so they do not need to be crazy strong
Thanks again
How many do you need? If you need more than 1 or 2, and I suspect that's the case, I would just use a butt joint.
You CAN make them by using hand tools, cross cut saw, chisel, rabbet plane...unlikely you have one of those, but technically it's possible. Practically speaking...why bother? They will hang on the wall, don't need to be "crazy strong" and what ever benefits, if any, making them other than with butt joints will be outweighed by the amount of sheer hand work involved. Now that's just my opinion, of course which is why I suggested butt joints without any further explanation. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got it guess I will use butt joints

Reason why I wanted to go the 45 degree route was because I wanted to stain the frames which I feel looks best with the 45's.

I will now most likely paint the frames since I will be using butt joints.

Is it OK to attach one side at a time as oppose to gluing the entire frame at once?

Thanks again for the replies appreciate it
 

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How about if your going to use butt joints how about some glue and kreg pocket hole joinery??? Is that an option I love them and use these all the time just a thought not sure if it's an option but if it is it's a great option
 

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Discussion Starter #19
funny you mention the kreg pocket hole jig because i just added one to my amazon shopping cart. I am now trying to figure out the best way to hold the pieces at 90 degrees while i drill my holes and glue. I was thinking of picking up another corner clamp since I already own one this way i can put one on each side while i drill my holes here is a link to the one i already have:

do you think using two of these will work for what im trying to do?

Thanks again
 
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