[Steve Neul]

You really shouldn't brush or spray any oil stain on wood and let it dry. When you put a finish over the top of it the finish will bond to the stain instead of the wood and peal off. Spraying is a good way to apply stain but should be immediately be wiped off. Then stain only once. Some folks put multiple coats of stain on to have the same phenomenon. No stain should be left on the surface.

Maple is one of those woods that is prone to blotch because the wood varies in density. It makes it more difficult to stain but you should use a wood conditioner. It is a sealer that the softer parts of the wood absorbe more of the conditioner than the harder parts making it more uniform in density. Then the stain will go on more uniform.

From where you are I would wash the cabinet down with lacquer thinner removing any stain on the surface. Then like Dave said correct the color problems with a dye stain. You could use transtint dye or I use Mohawk Ultra Penetrating Stain. Another option is have a gel stain mixed to match the Minwax stain and use that to color the light areas. It will bond to the wood to where it can be clear coated. I prefer a dye because it is transparent. The gel stain gives a paste look to the color.

 

[Steve Neul]

There is no satin on the surface, its all been wiped down, it is just not even remotely the same color as we picked out. What about that polyshades stuff? Would that give the desired effect? Looking for it to be even and dark, Red Mahogany, it just looks dull brown now.

It would be better if you would post a picture for us to give you suggestions. You could use the polyshades but I don't care for the stuff. It has pigment suspended in the finish obscuring the wood. If it is red you need you can add red to the color with a dye stain and it will be clear as if the stain you used had done the job you wanted. It is more like ink than the oil stain you used.