[Finedesignnine]

Need a little help with this project. The desk is ¾” red oak top 7’x28” (3 boards side by side) the legs are 2x2 red oak and the sides are red oak plywood. I need help with joining the top of the desk with the base, so that I can remove the top from the base for easy transport and won’t matter how many times I do it, As well as the ability to be hidden. It needs to be sturdy and durable (children in the house need I say more?) I have thought about (beginner woodworker her be genital) using a screw with a locking head, but I’m not sure I would be able to make it sturdy enough. I have attached some picks to give you an idea about how this is going to somewhat look. Still working on the details as I go, But this is the overall plan your input is much appreciated!:smile:

***side note*** tools limited due to space. no table saw (or anything around that size) and that area to the right of the desk is where a computer will be built in to the desk which will be water cooled (computers are my expertise)

 

[WoodSimply]

Have you looked in to hardware used in production furniture? The ball screw thing, I can't remember its name but its a aggressive toothed screw with a ball type head that fits into a claw type receiver that when turned it pulls the ball head screw in closer. I'll see if I still have one in my shop. Another option would be using a window latch system. I would have to draw that one out to explain it.

 

[WoodSimply]

Still had them. I know ace hardware and home depot used to have them.

 

[Finedesignnine]

yep those where the screws with the locking head i was talking about. just not sure if id beable to do it properly. plus if its not tight enough it will give the desk a little wabble wont it? (keep in mind, im new to this)

 

[cps]

Can you add some framing to the top of the cabinet carcasses and screw from the frame into the top? It is hard to tell from the drawings what the internal structure is at the top.

 

[Finedesignnine]

i think i know where your going with that question. having some sort of framing will allow for a screw insert, correct?

also here is a rough idea what you are looking at pretty much there will be a box made by 2x2s with a 3/4 inch red oak joining these 2 cabnets together for spacing and support. ill probably put something more in there to help just not sure what.

thanks for the help so far:yes:

 

[CT Proctor]

I would use figure 8 connectors.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=50311&cat=3,41306,41312,50311

 

[woodnthings]

I would use these

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784&site=ROCKLER

or these:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=786&rrt=1

or these:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=353&site=ROCKLER

 

[mrcanterbury]

If you put cleats across the carcass and screw upward, don't forget to slot the screw holes in the cleats to allow for movement of the top.

 

[WoodSimply]

the figure 8s are new to me. It looks like the ones from rockler are a little flimsy. its small and to the point.

 

[Finedesignnine]

hmm, i like the idea for the figure 8s, it could be hidden well and not stand out. looks like i would just have to use a router to have it flush with the top or the wood. just keep in mind i am looking for something that i am able to take apart and reassemble multiple times. do they make 1/2 screw inserts? I also like the corner chair braces idea, although it does stick out a bit, it gives me an idea worth trying. thank you all for your inputs so far. I am still open to suggestions

 

[CT Proctor]

No need for a router with the Figure 8’s, just drill an 11/16" hole the thickness of the fastener.

 

[Finedesignnine]

ok i am liking the figure 8 idea thank you all for your imputs!