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... Step one: You gotta have three spare routers. :)

Seriously - the professionalism in its construction is well evident. So much attention to the little details. I am impressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So the whole base is made from MDF. Except the top

Wait..... your not saying naughty things about MDF are you???????


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where's my table saw?
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... Step one: You gotta have three spare routers. :)
Seriously - the professionalism in its construction is well evident. So much attention to the little details. I am impressed.
Not ony 3 routers, but 3 lifts as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Not ony 3 routers, but 3 lifts as well.
Lifts can be expensive and for this setup really not needed, but it's an example , but upgrades aren't out of the quesrion..

Trying to open a cabinet shop and having accounts but not a lot of money for Weaver shapers or space I needed something similar to this ⬇
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Discussion Starter #7
Discussion Starter • #10 1 mo ago (Edited)




When in doubt, draw it out...

There's nothing better than a full size pattern. Patterns won't mean it's perfect once it's built, but it atleast give you a visual of the size and room it will take to have it in the shop.

At this point it is an awkward place and cannot give specific measurements. At some point maybe towards the end I'll try and give specifics to get a better understanding of size.
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Discussion Starter #8
So the bottom base, off the pattern which figures dados for it to slide in, is layed out off the pattern. I used dado versus cleats, etc for the best support.
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When in doubt, draw it out...
you should learn a good cad program like autocad. i draw everything in full scale in autocad,
easy to get build measurements or check for clearance and interferences
the learning curve is difficult, but many community colleges teach autocad
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Have it... But it doesn't build anything...

Remember I have corel, Ecabinets, autocad, and numerous other programs. My Computer is slow and out of date...

I don't have a key to cabinet vision solids anymore either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So with being a cabinet maker at the time I always cheat my dados by making them deeper than 1/4. A little deeper allows me to cheat if the angle depths arent correct but the cabinet its sliding in is wider or narrower than expected. Less or more is easily obtained without going back and recutting/refitting the exterior pieces.
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Discussion Starter #12
As you can see it goes on the side and slips in the dado I already cut out. There are 6 sides, but there will be 3 this size. Now while the pieces are loose, its time to cut the doors out.
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Discussion Starter #13
Here we have the door cutouts. These were cut out with the table saw but I don't recommend this for the diy er. I'm old school and In the late 70's, early 80's all shops used a a tablesaw and did blind cuts. It was the norn back then. Today with the advantages of new routers and the great options routers have brought to the table I would recommend a plunge router, a router template guide and a 1/8 plunge bit or just make a face frame. Using the tablesaw saw means a blind cut and cleaning up the corners with a jigsaw. . Much more smoother and cleaner with the router..
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Discussion Starter #14
As you can see in the photo , the bottom opening will eventually be for storage, and the top opening with be eventually for the router access
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Discussion Starter #15
Well we have 3 pieces of a 6 piece cabinet. On the other thread sides there will be no access. Just storage.
This was cut on the table saw before, but I suggest the same process with a router and suggested bits...
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Discussion Starter #16
At some point you'll need to decide it you want this mobile. I did as I need to move things around when cleaning. Drilling these and working out the daily will save me some headaches later. The dado is placed 1.5 from the bottom . This will take the 3/4 bottom shelf and allow me to beef it up another 3/4 , as you can see in the photo..
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