Has anyone used these lever type wire connectors?

1007 Views 30 Replies 13 Participants Last post by alphonse53, 4 d ago

Quickstep

Discussion Starter · 15 d ago

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I saw a guy on YouTube talking about how these connectors are superior to wire nuts.

To me they don’t look a whole lot different than the stab connectors on the back of cheapo outlets and switches.

Does anyone have any first hand experience and opinions on these?

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John Smith_inFL

· #2 · 15 d ago

I used them when I rewired my home - after the inspection, the inspector strongly suggested I replace them with wire nuts. (even tho they are approved by the UL). Personal choice.

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weepee

· #3 · 15 d ago

John Smith_inFL said:
I used them when I rewired my home - after the inspection, the inspector strongly suggested I replace them with wire nuts. (even tho they are approved by the UL). Personal choice.

Soldering beats them all. The twist on connectors are good. We called them Marettes. Better than the screw type Marr connectors.

calabrese55

· #4 · 15 d ago

I have used these they worked pretty good

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-SpliceLine-10-Pack-Orange-Push-In-Wire-Connectors/50101794?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-LIA_ELC_106_Tools-Wire-Connectors-_-50101794-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjwjYKjBhB5EiwAiFdSfj4dNhdHR31cum2YyEjHLzui8sI_w-YMsRveWXHiH2IDkqLvmcXwLBoC5fcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

calabrese55

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johnep

· #5 · 14 d ago

I used these for connections above my head and too difficult to get the wires into small holes. Job done in a few minutes.
johnep

Steve Neul

· #6 · 14 d ago

Those connectors look like the same principle as what is on the back side of an electrical outlet. Every time I encounter a short on an electrical outlet those are the culprit. Nothing beats twisting the wires and useing a wire nut.

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weepee

· #7 · 14 d ago

Except in harsher conditions like vehicle and trailer wiring. I always solder and tape. if you want a good seal use the self vulcanizing rubber tape. You’ll curse that stuff if you ever want to remove. The connectors they use on autos are good but those are made to prevent moisture entry.

Biotec

· #8 · 14 d ago

4

@Quickstep

we use this type for non motors

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they make it for 300 volt or 600 volt applications. splicing connector; 2-conductor .
motors can use this type

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it uses a set screw

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2-Port Black Multi-Tap Pre-Insulated Connector, 1/0 – 6 AWG

local jurisdictions have different opinions of them. UL listed parts

red wire nuts are $00.06 each

the ideal is about $00.70 each IDEAL Lever Wire Connectors 12 To 24 Awg Clear (10-Pack)

unless this something that needs to be taken a part a lot then it is not worth it.

like the back of a lot home outlets spring tension. weakens with heat. like a home space heater or vacuum.

I believe the old RED nut or what color that you need is a better choice. just my 2 cents

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_Ogre

· #9 · 14 d ago

no opinion on those particular connectors, but i've done a lot of electrical work over the past 35 years and have never had a wire nut connection fail. i have had to repair many of the push connectors and lever type connectors fail, done by others. i'm very picky on wire nuts and only buy ideal with wings, i have a screwdriver with wire nut socket in the end. start by hand, pull each wire to confirm connection, once confirmed tighten the heck out of it with the socket. i've installed thousands of them with nary a failure.

if you are doing a rewire... i also only use commercial grade back/side wired receptacles, they may cost 3-4 times more than the cheapest receptacles, but once you install a couple of them; you'll understand. google leviton cbr15, never a callback!

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minuteman62-64

· #10 · 14 d ago

I've used the Ideal connectors. Easier to fit into tight quarters. I'm not a pro, so can't attest to years of reliability for one over the other. I assume the UL approval means something. I have been around long enough to remember the old timers looking down at these new-fangled wire nuts.

Quickstep

Discussion Starter · #11 · 14 d ago

My application is a box where I need to bond 5 grounds. I wrapped a ground around each of the devices, but I still have three wires to join. I can get them in a wire nut for sure, but the PVC outdoor box is crowded and those little flat jobbies would be ideal, but as others said, I’ve seen failures on stab connectors to the point where I’m surprised they’re approved.

I wonder if the lever kind are any better than the ones you just jab.

Speaking of that, why can’t manufacturers give us an extra ground lug on switches and outlets?

BigCountry79

· #12 · 13 d ago

Quickstep said:
My application is a box where I need to bond 5 grounds. I wrapped a ground around each of the devices, but I still have three wires to join. I can get them in a wire nut for sure, but the PVC outdoor box is crowded and those little flat jobbies would be ideal, but as others said, I’ve seen failures on stab connectors to the point where I’m surprised they’re approved.

I wonder if the lever kind are any better than the ones you just jab.

Speaking of that, why can’t manufacturers give us an extra ground lug on switches and outlets?

The ground lug on a fixture is to use on a pigtail. You can then wrap all the pigtails together into a twist splice and you're done. I never use wire nuts on a ground connection.

An extra trick on grounding...leave your line and load cables extra long. Snip off 6" from both white and black conductors, but leave the grounding conductor long. Twist the grounds together, but leave about 6" of ground conductor hanging past your splice. Connect one extra end to your outlet/ switch. Connect the other to your metal box.

_Ogre

· #13 · 13 d ago

Quickstep said:
Speaking of that, why can’t manufacturers give us an extra ground lug on switches and outlets?

removal of the device must not interrupt the grounding of devices past the removed device. there's always a chance of current being on the ground wire, having 2 grounds on the device would expose you to the risk shock when removing the device. typically with 2 NM cables, you'd use a pigtail with the pigtail connected to the device. ideal makes a green ground wire nut with a hole in the end, cut one ground wire longer than the others and nut it like the pic. don't twist the wires like the picture.

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remember that the minimum wire length is 6 inches. if using the green wire nuts, cut one wire 12". after making up the nut fold the wires to the back of the box and push them in tight with a screwdriver. this still gives you a 6" pigtail to tie to the device.
if you are doing your own wiring buy the deepest box available: the room in a 20 cubic inch box vs 22 cubic inch box is real when you are trying to fold #12 wires back in the box with a gfci receptacle.

BigCountry79 said:
I never use wire nuts on a ground connection.
Twist the grounds together, but leave about 6" of ground conductor hanging past your splice. Connect one extra end to your outlet/ switch. Connect the other to your metal box.

none of the above is code compliant. i'm actually dealing with failed twisted grounds in the house i'm currently rewiring. even with a wire nut, twisting wires in the box makes it very difficult to service or repair the wiring in the box at a later time. i'd gladly fire anyone that did grounds this way.

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BigCountry79

· #14 · 13 d ago

_Ogre said:
removal of the device must not interrupt the grounding of devices past the removed device. there's always a chance of current being on the ground wire, having 2 grounds on the device would expose you to the risk shock when removing the device. typically with 2 NM cables, you'd use a pigtail with the pigtail connected to the device. ideal makes a green ground wire nut with a hole in the end, cut one ground wire longer than the others and nut it like the pic. don't twist the wires like the picture.

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remember that the minimum wire length is 6 inches. if using the green wire nuts, cut one wire 12". after making up the nut fold the wires to the back of the box and push them in tight with a screwdriver. this still gives you a 6" pigtail to tie to the device.
if you are doing your own wiring buy the deepest box available: the room in a 20 cubic inch box vs 22 cubic inch box is real when you are trying to fold #12 wires back in the box with a gfci receptacle.

none of the above is code compliant. i'm actually dealing with failed twisted grounds in the house i'm currently rewiring. even with a wire nut, twisting wires in the box makes it very difficult to service or repair the wiring in the box at a later time. i'd gladly fire anyone that did grounds this way.

That green wire nut is pretty close to what I was describing with a nut instead of a twist.

I looked up your comment on twisted grounds and that is true according to nec 2023 250.8(A). That's good to know even if threatening to fire me is a little much! I have never seen a wire nut on a ground wire in my life outside of light fixtures though. I imagine this is fairly recent...in the last 20 years or so?
I have seen really bad twist connections, and the kinked wires definitely make it harder to modify the service to a box, so I understand. Thanks for the correction.

Tom

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_Ogre

· #15 · 12 d ago (Edited)

don't take it personal, electrical is one of those things i'm anal about. nobody dies if the plumber hooks up the toilet to hot water, but bad wiring, grounds in particular, kill. i got my NC Unlimited electrical license in 1985, to the best of my knowledge twisted wires went out with knob and tube wiring long before any of us were born (most of us). when people ask what i did for a living, i'd say that i'm a pipe fitter with an electrical license and a civil engineering degree. i worked in the trades for 20 years before college and still do. as for being fired... i'd give anyone a warning. but i've also fired my fair share. 😎

that green wire nut makeup was taken by a photographer, chances are said photographer had zero knowledge of electrical work. twisted wires, out. hook too short for my use, leave the wire 6" longer, fold all other grounds back in the box, compact with screwdriver. then, if you bought the back wired receptacle i recommended, no hook is required, just insert wire behind the washer and tighten the screw.

twisting the grounds together was recommended by a couple posters. this is a good reason not to post opinions as fact or "this is how i do it". especially for electrical issues where somebody's life could be at stake.

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_Ogre

· #16 · 12 d ago

Quickstep said:
My application is a box where I need to bond 5 grounds. I wrapped a ground around each of the devices, but I still have three wires to join. I can get them in a wire nut for sure, but the PVC outdoor box is crowded

after replying in your pvc thread, i realize that your wiring in a pool pump. be very cautious of what your doing. without knowing what this box looks like, there are also box fill maximums in the code. adding another box may be easier than trying to over stuff the box you have. blue wire nuts will do 5 #12 wires, so will splitting the 5 into 2 red wire nuts with a jumper between them. new wiring rarely has 5 wires in a single gang box, 2 wires is preferred, 3 is doable.

BigCountry79

· #17 · 12 d ago

_Ogre said:
don't take it personal, electrical is one of those things i'm anal about. nobody dies if the plumber hooks up the toilet to hot water, but bad wiring, grounds in particular, kill. i got my NC Unlimited electrical license in 1985, to the best of my knowledge twisted wires went out with knob and tube wiring long before any of us were born (most of us). when people ask what i did for a living, i'd say that i'm a pipe fitter with an electrical license and a civil engineering degree. i worked in the trades for 20 years before college and still do. as for being fired... i'd give anyone a warning. but i've also fired my fair share. 😎

that green wire nut makeup was taken by a photographer, chances are said photographer had zero knowledge of electrical work. twisted wires, out. hook too short for my use, leave the wire 6" longer, fold all other grounds back in the box, compact with screwdriver. then, if you bought the back wired receptacle i recommended, no hook is required, just insert wire behind the washer and tighten the screw.

twisting the grounds together was recommended by a couple posters. this is a good reason not to post opinions as fact or "this is how i do it". especially for electrical issues where somebody's life could be at stake.

I read through the nec at one point around 2000. I don't remember anything about the wire nut on a ground wire. It is definitely in there now and I'll start doing that from now on.

I also have an electrician for a cousin and he taught me to twist the wires together. He was pretty opinionated on it, and about making sure to do it right. He also stressed that the twist takes up room, so use the next size up if you need to. I'm curious on your thoughts on whether a properly twisted set of wires under a properly sized wire nut is better than untwisted wires? I always give mine a tug after I splice them and I occasionally have the untwisted wires come loose, but never a twisted set.

_Ogre

· #18 · 12 d ago

BigCountry79 said:
I'm curious on your thoughts on whether a properly twisted set of wires under a properly sized wire nut is better than untwisted wires? I always give mine a tug after I splice them and I occasionally have the untwisted wires come loose, but never a twisted set.

Having never twisted the grounds together, I really don't have an opinion on it. I did mostly industrial wiring before pursuing my electrical license. I signed up for a code class and passed unlimited test the first time. The instructor said that most residential electricians have a hard time with the test cuz they learned a different way of doing wiring. Your cousin always twisted grounds cuz he learned that way, totally against the NEC code and he'd fail that part of the test. Grounding is a good part of the test, cuz it's important!

I work mostly with homeowners who want to do their own work. I stress that after tightening a wire nut, tug each wire like you want it out. 80% of their failures is a wire loose in the nut. Me? I can't remember the last time I had a failure. Probably in the 80s.

Heckter

· #19 · 11 d ago

Following electrician forums in advance of recently doing a lot of work on my home, I found that mainly they are fond of Wago 221 lever connectors, not so much other brands.

alphonse53

· #20 · 10 d ago

Soldering was the almost best method for connecting any wiring, and still is if done correctly. However, it's no longer legal because there's no inspection procedure to ensure the correct solder was used, nor whether the wires were completely fused together. Pure tin solder at $51/lb. is reason enough to use a short cut. All that being said, the best method of connecting wiring, of those choices allowed under codes I know of, is the Buchanan connector. It essentially crimps all the wires together into an almost failproof connection that is almost as strong as the wire itself, can be inspected prior to cap installation and taping to ensure a secure connection, and will resist corrosion because the ferrule is made of non-corrosive copper. The wiring can be disassembled by cutting the connector away from the wiring without damage if done with care. They cost a little more, take a little more time to install, but for quality connecting, they work with any combination of solid and stranded wire.

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