Read The Fine Manual, folks. Below from the Harvey website:
Now, 32A sounds like a lot, but that is what they say they require. While you can probably make it work on a 30A circuit, I don't recommend rounding down, so you most likely will need a 40A circuit if you insist on 120V operation. Assuming your electrician pulled 12ga wire, you can
change it to 220V at 20A, install a dual breaker,, hook the white wire to the other breaker and rewire your motor for 220V. I say you can
do that, but I do not recommend it because while that was OK in the '70s, it has been against code for a long time - the reason being that there is no neutral and some appliances count on having that neutral connection so they can have 110V for controls and 220 for motors and heaters -- but this saw won't need it. Code these days is 3 wires (red, black, white) plus ground for 220V.
The good news is you bought a real 2HP saw, not some liar's saw with bogus HP claims. I know we all have routers that claim to be 3HP+ that we run on 15A circuits all the time -- they are lying. (If you want to know more about that, just ask -- I've overdone it on this thread already.) You should expect inrush current on a saw of this size to be at least double the full load rating, which explains the 32A breaker recommendation or 2X the 16A rating for the motor.
Breakers are designed to have a slow response to a small overload and a fast response to a significant overload. A 2HP motor starting on a 20A circuit is probably pushing the limits of the breaker though not a risk to the wire unless you are doing a lot of stop-start cycles, but don't be tempted to just swap it out for a 30A breaker (it's the breaker's job to protect the wire).
Your best option would be to rewire for 220V.