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Ed
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I use a mixture of water with a little pine sol and dish detergent in it for my blade, it helps lubricate the blade to reduce friction and it helps to keep any pitch from building up on the blade, which also helps to reduce friction and heat on the blade.

I got right at about 6 months out of my first 16 blades, but I sharpen my own, I am at now at 15 months on my initial 16 blades that I started with. I figure I have about two sharpens a year on each blade and about 20 sharpens total. That should equate to about ten years of use for these 16 blades, equates to about $30 a year for me.

I had a weld break on a blade break about a week ago, I have had that happen to my vertical bandsaw before, but I just run down to Hahn rental and have them reweld the blade for the bandsaw, I imagine they should be able to do the bandmill blade as well.

Welcome to the hopeless addiction of owning a sawmill and milling wood. :yes:
 

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my first sawmill
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finally got a chance to use my mill, I love it, I ordered the cooks xcel silver blades they work great on pine . i didnt know how bad the stock blade was until i got my new blades in. i havnt had much time to work it yet but i have 7 ,12 to 20 inch pines 9 ft long i hope to get to this weekend :smile:
 

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Hey, Lonnie, did you finally get the refund straightened out with HF? I ended up paying $1450. I'm not sure if they didn't charge me for tax or shipping, either way it was about $100 less than what I thought it was going to be.

I also finally got mine put together and it works great. I didn't even try using the blade that came with it. I'm using WM double-hard 10 degree. It surprised the heck out of me when it started on the very first pull. As long as I can remember to turn the switch on it doesn't really even take a full pull to start.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only thing we would have to do to match Woodland Mills ability to mill 26" logs is to modify the location of the push/throttle handle? I've been thinking of adding some supports to make the saw head a little more stable. I've also been thinking of installing a direct read out in addition to having the scale. I think you can get one for about $30. Someone said that an hour meter would cost $10. I haven't found anything cheaper than $30 plus about $10 shipping.

Everyone that has watched me saw or seen the lumber thinks it's pretty cool. I've even got family looking for logs now. Pretty good considering they all were wondering what the heck I wanted a mill for.
 

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my first sawmill
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yes I finally got my refund after three weeks and calling every day, I ended up paying $1633 to my door, I finally got to mill a couple of logs today I have a nice stack of lumber out of 2 pines about 20 inches. as for the scale I had a broke stanley tape so I just cut it off and taped it over the paper one that came on it , works fine for me. i havent looked at trying to mill anything bigger, the 20 inch logs are plenty big enough to handle by myself. I made another slide clamp
to secure the logs,I will get some pics later this week .:icon_smile:
 

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i just ordered for $1425 but with tax and shipping $1628, this forum has helped me so much thanks to all who posted here. know it might take them 6 months to ship it i don't mind that will give me 6 months to start cutting logs and stacking them i have questions, the main reason im buying this mill is for siding i need to cut enough siding to cover 3 double wide trailers what wood should i use for the siding oak or pine? can i mix oak and pine? whats the best water seal to use? and whats the best way to make extension track. i have about 6 acres of pine and oak i can use any tips that can help me would be greatly appreciated
 

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Boy to own a saw mill and cut your own lumber sure sounds good. It would take a different type of person then me. To cut a tree down would be my biggest fear of killing myself. My next problem would be I would have to learn to cut lumber from a log the proper way. Then you would need a way to dry and store the lumber. Just seems you would be spending more time cutting and making useable lumber then working in your wood shop unless you plan on selling lumber.
 

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Red oak or white oak?

White oak would be great--pine next best--red oak last choice--it doesn't weather well----
i believe most of it is red oak and white oak and a bunch of pine but if i stain it does it matter? or will i be able to tell once im finished i hear that oak will last longer then pine but its harder to nail i hear:boat:
 

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Boy to own a saw mill and cut your own lumber sure sounds good. It would take a different type of person then me. To cut a tree down would be my biggest fear of killing myself. My next problem would be I would have to learn to cut lumber from a log the proper way. Then you would need a way to dry and store the lumber. Just seems you would be spending more time cutting and making useable lumber then working in your wood shop unless you plan on selling lumber.
im tired of having to buy low quality lumber at a high price i think i will take my chances with a saw mill
 

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yes I finally got my refund after three weeks and calling every day, I ended up paying $1633 to my door, I finally got to mill a couple of logs today I have a nice stack of lumber out of 2 pines about 20 inches. as for the scale I had a broke stanley tape so I just cut it off and taped it over the paper one that came on it , works fine for me. i havent looked at trying to mill anything bigger, the 20 inch logs are plenty big enough to handle by myself. I made another slide clamp
to secure the logs,I will get some pics later this week .:icon_smile:
im glad it worked out for you i justed order today and it saids on my account on harbor freight that my order is processing how long does processing take?
 

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and whats the best way to make extension track.
I didn't know that HF was selling them again, they had stopped for a while. Great deal, you are going to love your mill.

How long do you want to extend your mill? When I do mine I'm going to buy two 20 foot sticks of angle iron and replace the track I have now. I will bolt everything because I'm afraid I'll warp it if I try welding it. With 20' I will be able to cut 16' and I doubt if I will ever want to cut longer.
 

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Type siding & Stain

i just ordered for $1425 but with tax and shipping $1628, this forum has helped me so much thanks to all who posted here. know it might take them 6 months to ship it i don't mind that will give me 6 months to start cutting logs and stacking them i have questions, the main reason im buying this mill is for siding i need to cut enough siding to cover 3 double wide trailers what wood should i use for the siding oak or pine? can i mix oak and pine? whats the best water seal to use? and whats the best way to make extension track. i have about 6 acres of pine and oak i can use any tips that can help me would be greatly appreciated
Hey Dan, This is the stain I used with the Cedar looking color (Posting Picture of Cans),, Not sure the color your looking for...,,, I used (WHITE PINE)put shortly after cutting on my mill,, Had my Wife stain with clear coat on the back of the boards an then the STAIN Color on the face of the Boards & Battens,,Some has been up over a year and No fading or Splits at all... I also used my Router to put a edge on my battens for a better looking batten,,, Do you know how to Put up Boards an battens?? If Not I'll tell you how I put mine up... Good luck and have FUN!!
 

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I didn't know that HF was selling them again, they had stopped for a while. Great deal, you are going to love your mill.

How long do you want to extend your mill? When I do mine I'm going to buy two 20 foot sticks of angle iron and replace the track I have now. I will bolt everything because I'm afraid I'll warp it if I try welding it. With 20' I will be able to cut 16' and I doubt if I will ever want to cut longer.
i would love to be able to do 20 foot or longer i did notice on the woodland mills video on youtube he states that they use lazer cut angle iron instead of what you can get off the shelf does it really make a difference? the woodlands mill looks alot like this one, 6 feet of track for $375 thats alot for only 6 feet....i was hoping HF would start selling the track again tell me your plans and how your going to do it what about the bunkers?
 

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Hey Dan, This is the stain I used with the Cedar looking color (Posting Picture of Cans),, Not sure the color your looking for...,,, I used (WHITE PINE)put shortly after cutting on my mill,, Had my Wife stain with clear coat on the back of the boards an then the STAIN Color on the face of the Boards & Battens,,Some has been up over a year and No fading or Splits at all... I also used my Router to put a edge on my battens for a better looking batten,,, Do you know how to Put up Boards an battens?? If Not I'll tell you how I put mine up... Good luck and have FUN!!
that looks great! are those 1/2 boards? and how wide are they? i love that look its better then plastic siding any day tell me more about how you did it? did you have to put up cross nailers to nail to? :eek:
 

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I use a mixture of water with a little pine sol and dish detergent in it for my blade, it helps lubricate the blade to reduce friction and it helps to keep any pitch from building up on the blade, which also helps to reduce friction and heat on the blade.

I got right at about 6 months out of my first 16 blades, but I sharpen my own, I am at now at 15 months on my initial 16 blades that I started with. I figure I have about two sharpens a year on each blade and about 20 sharpens total. That should equate to about ten years of use for these 16 blades, equates to about $30 a year for me.

I had a weld break on a blade break about a week ago, I have had that happen to my vertical bandsaw before, but I just run down to Hahn rental and have them reweld the blade for the bandsaw, I imagine they should be able to do the bandmill blade as well.

Welcome to the hopeless addiction of owning a sawmill and milling wood. :yes:
i love the idea of a electric one is it 220 or 110? how many amps does it pull? does the wire get in the way? thanks for posting how to sharpen the blades sounds like your going to get a lot of life out of them, do you ever plain the wood down?
 

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Board & Batten

that looks great! are those 1/2 boards? and how wide are they? i love that look its better then plastic siding any day tell me more about how you did it? did you have to put up cross nailers to nail to? :eek:
Hey Dan, No this are 1 inch Boards,,, and 1 inch Battens,, No strips behind the board, I just laid right up on the pink insulation you see in the pictures,, Some people suggest using furring strips I chose not to..
I did (NOT) cut every board to a particular width size I just used them as I cut from any size logs,, I cut my battens on a Table saw,,and then ran through my Router for the nice edging,,, I would try an keep my battens at 3 inches but no big deal if you have a board 14 inches wide to divide in a little wider batten,, can't even notice it,,, I used 3 screws on the left side of EACH board ,,One in the center left--top left--bottom left,,,
The right side of boards you want to float.>NO Screws at all
Leave a Guesstimate 1 inch gap between boards
On the batten I used 3 screws each also,,,
One screw in the middle one near the top and one near the bottom.
Good luck and have FUN!! Neighbors will love the look,,Mine do,,
 

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i have had a hard time ordering my sawmill my bank kept rejecting HFs billing.. i called the bank today and they said that HF is based in California and that i can't use my debit card there because of there high credit card fraud problem she had to give me special permission just to order from California..... i told her last time i checked California was still a part of the united states of America..... lest hope i get it, when i reordered from HF they said they have them in stock! and that they will ship in 10 to 20 days
 
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