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I am getting ready to hang my upper shop cabinets. Below is a sketch of the wall and its details. Basically I have 1/2" drywall nailed to 1 1/2" thick furring strips which are screwed through foam board to the concrete block with Tapcon screws. My question is will 3" truss head cabinet mounting screw through the cabinet back and drywall into the 1 1/2" furring strips hold up the cabinets?

There are three cabinets, one is 37" long and will be screwed into two of the furring strips with screws at the top and bottom. The other two cabinets will be joined together (screwed through the face frame to each other) and end up 58" long screwed into the furring strips with a screw at the top and the bottom.

Is this adequate to hold them and their contents securely? My other option would be to use 4 1/2 Tapcon screws through the cabinets into the block wall. The 4 1/2" screws would penetrate 1/2" into the block. Or should I use 5" Tapcon screws?

Here is a cross section of the wall.
 

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Old School
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I am getting ready to hang my upper shop cabinets. Below is a sketch of the wall and its details. Basically I have 1/2" drywall nailed to 1 1/2" thick furring strips which are screwed through foam board to the concrete block with Tapcon screws. My question is will 3" truss head cabinet mounting screw through the cabinet back and drywall into the 1 1/2" furring strips hold up the cabinets?

There are three cabinets, one is 37" long and will be screwed into two of the furring strips with screws at the top and bottom. The other two cabinets will be joined together (screwed through the face frame to each other) and end up 58" long screwed into the furring strips with a screw at the top and the bottom.

Is this adequate to hold them and their contents securely? My other option would be to use 4 1/2 Tapcon screws through the cabinets into the block wall. The 4 1/2" screws would penetrate 1/2" into the block. Or should I use 5" Tapcon screws?

Here is a cross section of the wall.
Your drawing shows the cabinet back is 1" thick. Depending on how that back is mounted in the cabinet would determine if it's structural enough to carry the weight. As for screws, you can use #8 coarse thread screws, and not long enough to hit the block wall.

If the back is questionable, install a hang rail at the top of the cabinet (could also be at the bottom) of ¾" plywood or solid wood...at least 2½" high, glued and screwed through the ends and the top (and bottom). Screw through that into the furring strips. You could use Tapcons.






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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks Cabinetman. The back is actually 1/2" thick with hanging strips 1/2" thick at the top and bottom. The back is in a dado on the top, bottom and sides. The hanging strip is attached to the cabinet back with construction adhesive.

The cabinet back is in dado's on the sides and sides and top are 3/4" plywood.

3" screws will go into the furring strips full thickness and behind the furring strips is 3/4" foam board so three inch screws will not reach the block. The cabinet back plus the hanging strips make up 1" plus the 1/2" drywall and 1 1/2" of furring strips make up the 3" then comes the 3/4" foam board.

I have some 2 1/2" #10 coarse thread cabinet hanging screws that I plan to use since 3" coarse thread are not available locally. What do you think Cabinetman?


George
 

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Consider using a French cleat. In my shop, I did not and I regret that decision at least a couple times a year. In my garage I did and I have had the cabinets off the wall or repositioned at least a few times since 2006.
 

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I second french cleat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Original plan was a french cleat so when I furred out and finished the wall I put a horizontal plate behind the drywall. When I built the tall end cabinet I didn't make it tall enough so now the top of the cabinets that would hang on the french cleat would higher than the tall end cabinet. Also one cabinet is narrower than 24" so the french cleat for that cabinet would only be screwed to one furring strip and that will not work.

George
 

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2 1/2" truss head screws into the furring strips will be fine. Hit every strip you can top and bottom. This situation isn't any different than attaching to ordinary stud walls. We do it all the time with kitchens.
 

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Drywall screws have very little shear strength. Use a quality wood screw. :smile:
Excuse the mess in my shop I need to clean badly.

You say the drywall screw has a weak shear strength but most cabinets I have seen were all hung with them.

These things or mounted with drywall screws and I think you will agree its a large load. Been up for years and has been unloaded and loaded several times.

That wood storage is 20" deep and 12' long it holds 120+ bf of mahogany and the rest is red and white oak! maple and poplar. I'm guessing around 400bf total is on there.

Those logs on top the cabinet are quite heavy also plus the cabinet and contents.


So the shear strength is either higher then you think or I'm really lucky.:thumbsup:


Those are corrected measurements. The first set was the planned amount I forgot it changed.
 

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Scotty D
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Excuse the mess in my shop I need to clean badly.

You say the drywall screw has a weak shear strength but most cabinets I have seen were all hung with them.

These things or mounted with drywall screws and I think you will agree its a large load. Been up for years and has been unloaded and loaded several times.

That wood storage is 24" deep and 12' long it holds 120+ bf of mahogany and the rest is red and white oak! maple and poplar. I'm guessing around 400+ bf total is on there.

Those logs on top the cabinet are quite heavy also plus the cabinet and contents.


So the shear strength is either higher then you think or I'm really lucky.:thumbsup:

Lol, looks like they already fell down... where's the pic? :laughing:
 

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Yep, That's a lot of weight. Drywall screws are very brittle, your braver than I am with that overhead. :smile:
I tested it by hanging off it and swinging a little. :laughing:

I've got a fair amount of screws in there but I may check how things are hanging so to speak to make sure.


Only a fool thinks he's right all the time.:thumbsup:
 

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George you are good with what you have. :thumbsup:

I'm with C'man on the #8 course drywall screws.
I didn't say "drywall screws". I said #8 coarse thread screws. Although drywall screws work OK, and like you I've never had a cabinet come loose, and I've hung a bunch of 'em.

I've had clients wonder how secure the cabinets are, so, I climb up there and stuff myself inside one. So, at least 200+ lbs...depending on what I had for breakfast.




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I didn't say "drywall screws". I said #8 coarse thread screws. Although drywall screws work OK, and like you I've never had a cabinet come loose, and I've hung a bunch of 'em.

I've had clients wonder how secure the cabinets are, so, I climb up there and stuff myself inside one. So, at least 200+ lbs...depending on what I had for breakfast.




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You sure didn't. I just up and mis-quoted you C'man. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the responses. I feel better now knowing I will be fine. Just to be safe I will put a screw at the top middle and bottom into each furring strip.

George
 
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