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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finishing a crib, it over in the design and plans,
I have got the color I want by rubbing BLO
I put 2 thin coats on over the weekend I am experimenting a little here instead of sanding with 220 I tried using a card scraper looks promising, also after the sanding block gummed up I wet the surface with mineral spirits. So the question is any of the above better than others for what I am trying to do (fill grain for a slick topcoat) ?
I am currently using Zinsser in the can,
 

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Rick Mosher
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A card scraper works fine as long as you know how to use it (you don't want a heavy burr), I like how it levels the surface faster. What worries me is the shellac gumming up the sandpaper. Zinsser shellac can go bad, there is a date on the can and you should not use it past that date or it will not dry properly. Also 220 sounds a little aggressive for scuffing shellac, I would use 320 or even 400 as each new coat melts into the previous one like lacquer there is no need for an aggressive mechanical bond.
 

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I second everything Rick said. How long did you wait for the shellac to dry before sanding...Zinnser seems (to me) to take a tad longer than fresh shellac to dry....but if it's bad it may never dry.
 
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A card scraper works fine as long as you know how to use it (you don't want a heavy burr), I like how it levels the surface faster. What worries me is the shellac gumming up the sandpaper. Zinsser shellac can go bad, there is a date on the can and you should not use it past that date or it will not dry properly. Also 220 sounds a little aggressive for scuffing shellac, I would use 320 or even 400 as each new coat melts into the previous one like lacquer there is no need for an aggressive mechanical bond.

+1 here
 
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A card scraper works fine as long as you know how to use it (you don't want a heavy burr), I like how it levels the surface faster. What worries me is the shellac gumming up the sandpaper. Zinsser shellac can go bad, there is a date on the can and you should not use it past that date or it will not dry properly. Also 220 sounds a little aggressive for scuffing shellac, I would use 320 or even 400 as each new coat melts into the previous one like lacquer there is no need for an aggressive mechanical bond.

+1 here :thumbsup:
 

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Old School
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I agree knowing how to edge a scraper, and knowing how to use it makes a difference. On bare wood, a scraper can leave an exceptionally smooth surface. The surface will appear differently than a sanded one. I still find myself doing a final sanding to make the entire piece more uniform.

A scraper can leave marks, especially in a finish. If the finish is cured, I prefer to sand between applications. Doing that gives me a choice of how abrasive the sandpaper is. Not much of a choice with a scraper.






.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys It is humid here and I probably did not wait long enough for the sanding experiment.. I filed the corners off scraper and there is no hook on it at all. I was dragging it at a low angle.
I hope to get some sprayed on this weekend as the former coats were brushed..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im sorry I guess the question I forgot to add was am I done shellacking or should I try another coat?
 

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Wood Snob
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GROOVY said:
Im sorry I guess the question I forgot to add was am I done shellacking or should I try another coat?
Shellac welds into itself with each coat. It doesn't matter if it's cured or just dry. When your finished its really like one thick coat. If you want to rub it out you can pour some alcohol in a rag and buff away. Be careful because if you want to you can remove it too. Shellac is a great choice. It's found in lots of food including Reese's Pieces. That's what makes them shine. It used to be in M and Ms too.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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