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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
His is my start at building a dovetail saw. I am thinking if I make it, I can customize it for my hand. I managed to obtain some steel for the blade from work. I have a second piece if anyone is interested. It is about .020" thick.

The only thing I am unsure of is how to construct the brass spine. Any tips would be welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
That first link is actually one of the sites I used in my initial research. A lot of my research has come from project Gutenberg ebooks on early woodworking.
 

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That's looking good!

Did you use a pattern for the handle, or just freehand it?

Also, what is the size of your saw blank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haven't decided on the spine at all. Slotted, folded, or laminated. The handle started as a drawing in my sketchbook using existing handles as a reference. I found a basic design I liked and made the angle and size fit my hand and height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Next question : how on earth can I put holes in this steel? I have burned up two drill bits. I even used oil on the second one. Is this stuff really that tough? Do I need to invest in some kind of punch?
 

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Next question : how on earth can I put holes in this steel? I have burned up two drill bits. I even used oil on the second one. Is this stuff really that tough? Do I need to invest in some kind of punch?
:laughing: Try a file on it and see if it cuts at all. If not it would have to be annealed first - something I have not done on such thin steel. I would be concerned with warping. The other concern is the type of steel. Do you know what it is and what is was originally intended for? Some of the whacky alloys have crazy tempering schedules.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No idea on original intentions for the material. Maybe hardened shim stock. But it's thin enough that I feel I could cut it with snips easily. All the drill bits did was make a REALLY shiny indent. Maybe I could put a hole in it with a punch, and then try drilling that? Once there are some irregularities for the bit to bite? This is a little frustrating.
 

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No idea on original intentions for the material. Maybe hardened shim stock. But it's thin enough that I feel I could cut it with snips easily. All the drill bits did was make a REALLY shiny indent. Maybe I could put a hole in it with a punch, and then try drilling that? Once there are some irregularities for the bit to bite? This is a little frustrating.
Did you start with a small bit at low speed? I only ask because I don't know how much experience you have with metal work. Most "general purpose" bits will not start in then tempered steel without a bit of help.

Punching it would be an option but without a press this may put a warp in the steel that would have to be addressed later with a hammer and anvil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so, I am grinning ear to ear for a couple reasons. I was able to drill through the saw plate
(barely). Screwed up the kerf to hold the blade. And threw a piece of scrap stainless sheet metal on as a spine. The only thing about the saw I like is the grip of the handle. And I learned a lot. So, I have something to go by next time.

Enough yammering. Here are the initial results.


The dovetails on one edge are we're cut on the wrong side of the line. The sloppy ones.
Only chiseling done was the clean up the bottoms of the cuts along the line. Other than that it was new saw and coping saw. Total cut time on sample: 15 mins.
Huge improvement in both fit and time over example given In first thread.

Woooooo!
 

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You could easily have some brass bar stock slit 3/4 through and epoxy the blade into it.
I don't think you want to epoxy the blade in, it is my understanding that you want to be able to adjust the back and also be able to remove it if you need to dekink the saw at some point. I may be mistaken.
 

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Looks good, Drob! How did you set it? A lot easier and QUICKER working with the right tools, eh?

I don't think you want to epoxy the blade in, it is my understanding that you want to be able to adjust the back and also be able to remove it if you need to dekink the saw at some point. I may be mistaken.
You are correct sir, no epoxy... in the sockets of chisels either for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I filed the teeth freehand with a triangle jeweled file and set the teeth with a small set of needle nose. After all was said and done, I ran a small oil stone down the sides of the teeth to hit the high ones.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Womadeod , I can't send pm yet, I would like to find a way to send you that blade blank. Pm me to hammer out the details.

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