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Grizzly Table Saw question - 5hp vs 3hp

2597 Views 45 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Miket
I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month and more when I retire in a few years. I will be cutting mostly 1" walnut, alder and maple but sometimes will be cutting 2" planks of the same wood.

I am looking at two G1023R Grizzly table saws that are identical except for the motors. The one on sale is a 5hp version (G1023RLA 40 which is the same as the G1023RLWX but with different a paint design) and is now on sale for $300 less than the 3hp version (G1023RLW) . My circuit is #10 wire with a 30 amp GFCI breaker and if I downsized this breaker to a 20 amp breaker it will cost just over $100. Since my panel was inspected and signed off with a 30 amp breaker then it would be better to not change it but that is not a big deal.

I can save about $450 going with the 5hp version.

Would most hobbyist woodworkers go with the 5hp version and save the $450 ? I can then use that savings toward accessories and dust collection.
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with difference of the two motors is mainly input current. 13.5A vs 25.0A both run at 3450 RPMs. so wiring for the larger motor will need to be for a 30 amp circuit.

if a kick back was to occur the motor load does not change that much. most saws current is running at 2/3 of max current.
most saw motors do not have a Motor Service Factor (SF) . it is the percentage of overloading the motor can handle for short periods when operating normally within the correct voltage tolerances.
For example, the standard SF for motors is 1.15. This means that a 10-hp motor with a 1.15 SF could provide 11.5 hp when required for short-term use.
Traditionally, totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors had an SF of 1.0, but most manufacturers now offer TEFC motors with service factors of 1.15 but there is large cost to do so.



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3450 RPM Motors turning approximately turning 57.5 revolutions per second.

horsepower really comes into play when continuously cutting and overloading or overfeeding too fast, binding or weather cutting with a dull blade. the motor force between a 3 horse and a 5 horse is approximately two horsepower during that Split Second when kick back would occur I do not believe the horsepower gain will be that much more significant.

I also believe that the smaller the piece of wood that is the part that is becoming the kickback is the most dangerous the piece of wood is small. but the damage is great.

here's an article how the physics of how a kickback accident occurs and the damage.

both are worth the time to read as they cover physics of a kick back.

The physics of a table saw kickback accident

Table saw kickback momentum


Good Luck
on the Acquisition of the new saw
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with difference of the two motors is mainly input current. 13.5A vs 25.0A both run at 3450 RPMs. so wiring for the larger motor will need to be for a 30 amp circuit.

if a kick back was to occur the motor load does not change that much. most saws current is running at 2/3 of max current.
most saw motors do not have a Motor Service Factor (SF) . it is the percentage of overloading the motor can handle for short periods when operating normally within the correct voltage tolerances.
For example, the standard SF for motors is 1.15. This means that a 10-hp motor with a 1.15 SF could provide 11.5 hp when required for short-term use.
Traditionally, totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors had an SF of 1.0, but most manufacturers now offer TEFC motors with service factors of 1.15 but there is large cost to do so.



View attachment 449365 View attachment 449366


3450 RPM Motors turning approximately turning 57.5 revolutions per second.

horsepower really comes into play when continuously cutting and overloading or overfeeding too fast, binding or weather cutting with a dull blade. the motor force between a 3 horse and a 5 horse is approximately two horsepower during that Split Second when kick back would occur I do not believe the horsepower gain will be that much more significant.

I also believe that the smaller the piece of wood that is the part that is becoming the kickback is the most dangerous the piece of wood is small. but the damage is great.

here's an article how the physics of how a kickback accident occurs and the damage.

both are worth the time to read as they cover physics of a kick back.

The physics of a table saw kickback accident

Table saw kickback momentum


Good Luck
on the Acquisition of the new saw
Only differenceI could see on 3hp-5hp would be if the 5hp had a 12” blade and had more teeth showing..

Denise at=work got nailed by one of these on thec12” Powermatic.

Safe… Denise won’t use it again. He went to the cardiologist after the incident…

The saw was mounted to a pallet and was 4” higher than normal.

Wood Engineering Machine Metal Thumb
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on the sale sheet it is 5 hp with a 10 inch blade and is very heavy near 600 pounds

saw manual

snip from their site
Grizzly G1023RLA40 - 10" 5 HP 240V Cabinet Table Saw - 40th Anniversary Edition
Be the First to Write a review
$1,995.00
+$329.00 Freight
  • Motor: 5 HP
  • Tablesaw type: Cabinet
  • Blade size: 10 in.
  • Maximum cutting height @ 90deg: 3 in.
  • Maximum cutting height @ 45deg: 2-1/8 in.
  • Maximum ripping capacity - right: 32 in.
  • Table type: Precision-Ground Cast Iron
  • Overall table size: 48 in. x 27 in.
  • Shipping weight: 583 lbs.
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Lots of opinion in these discussions:

The 3 main issues seem to be:
1. Cost vs savings
2. Power or torque
3. Safety
4. Wiring, less so

All other things equal, including the fence? the savings of the 5 HP would be the deciding factor.
Safety including kickbacks and the Saw Stop feature depends on proper procedures and the use of safety gear.
Ripping hardwood down the length is not always a predictable event, in my experience.
Safely cutting plywood panels from larger sheets is also not a given, and my kickbacks have always been with plywood.
I do use push blocks and push shoes, but rarely use a push stick as they do NOT provide the control I need.
I have never had even a close call, aka "near miss" contacting the saw blade because I'm using the push shoes.
My first table saw was purchased in 1960 with high school graduation gift money, 63 years ago.
Since then I've purchased about 6 more, five 10" and one 12".
The 10" saws do all I need. If the need for ripping thick stock arises, I find the bandsaw a far more efficient and safer machine.
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The 5hp is the better price..
I have a 3hp Grizz and have used it to cut >2 inch hard maple w/o problems but if you can get a 5hp cheaper? Is this a discussion? Just be sure to size the electric to the saw‘s requirements. Either one will kick like hell if you are incautious but proper equipment, practice, and some forethought are pretty helpful. Any cut closer to the fence than ~4 inches gets a push stick, light materials get a hold-down to prevent flip and I swear by the riving knife. Proud to say 1 kickback in 8 years-as a nooby back when.
Thank you everyone for your contributions to my post. My circuit is sized perfectly for the 5HP saw since it is 10-2 wiring on a 30 amp breaker. I am leaning toward the 5hp saw and will take all precautions to avoid a kick-back and will make sure to keep my hands away from the blade.
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with difference of the two motors is mainly input current. 13.5A vs 25.0A both run at 3450 RPMs. so wiring for the larger motor will need to be for a 30 amp circuit.

if a kick back was to occur the motor load does not change that much. most saws current is running at 2/3 of max current.
most saw motors do not have a Motor Service Factor (SF) . it is the percentage of overloading the motor can handle for short periods when operating normally within the correct voltage tolerances.
For example, the standard SF for motors is 1.15. This means that a 10-hp motor with a 1.15 SF could provide 11.5 hp when required for short-term use.
Traditionally, totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors had an SF of 1.0, but most manufacturers now offer TEFC motors with service factors of 1.15 but there is large cost to do so.



View attachment 449365 View attachment 449366


3450 RPM Motors turning approximately turning 57.5 revolutions per second.

horsepower really comes into play when continuously cutting and overloading or overfeeding too fast, binding or weather cutting with a dull blade. the motor force between a 3 horse and a 5 horse is approximately two horsepower during that Split Second when kick back would occur I do not believe the horsepower gain will be that much more significant.

I also believe that the smaller the piece of wood that is the part that is becoming the kickback is the most dangerous the piece of wood is small. but the damage is great.

here's an article how the physics of how a kickback accident occurs and the damage.

both are worth the time to read as they cover physics of a kick back.

The physics of a table saw kickback accident

Table saw kickback momentum


Good Luck
on the Acquisition of the new saw

Thank you for your comment Biotec. I will sure think about what you said.
I've owned a Grizzly G1023RLWX for about 3 years. It's a great saw that you won't regret purchasing, especially if you're saving $400 over the 3HP model.
If I wanted one, I think I’d get it on order.
If I wanted one, I think I’d get it on order.

I tried to buy the 5 hp saw yesterday and the Washington warehouse is out of stock. I bought the 3 hp G1023RLW for $2,295.
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The saw stop wings appear to be stamped steel to me, and that is a deal breaker. The griz 5 HP has the built in router table?, or is that a stock photo,?
The 5 hp Grizzly has a built in router table. That is why I was looking at it. The Washington location is now sold out of the $1,995 5 hp saw so I bought the 3 hp saw for $2,295 with the built in router table..
I tried to buy the 5 hp saw yesterday and the Washington warehouse is out of stock. I bought the 3 hp G1023RLW for $2,295.
Wishing you a safe purchase. I owned a 3HP left tilt Unisaw for over 10 yrs. It was a very good saw. Had the 52" Biesemeyer with a router extension but no riving knife because it was a couple of years older than when the Fed. required them. Had several kickbacks. You learn to protect yourself. Right before I retired, I thought about how my body was getting older, weaker, and slower. I decided then that protection of the digits I have left was of utmost importance, since I'm already missing two on my left hand (NOT woodworking related). For your situation, it would only be about $1200 more to get a SawStop Professional with a 3HP single phase, and maybe save something you'll never be able to replace. For me it was 2K. Yourself being a machinist, you could add a DRO to it, and get the benefit of precision blade height, which you can't do with a swing arm designed yoke saw like Grizz, Delta, and Jet/Powermatic.
The saw stop wings appear to be stamped steel to me, and that is a deal breaker. The griz 5 HP has the built in router table?, or is that a stock photo,?
Why? I wouldn‘t be so quick to make that judgment. Do you know anything about them, like how thick? Agree cast iron is better, OTOH SS doesn’t make junk.

An ER visit would make it a moot point anyway, wouldn’t it😉
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I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month and more when I retire in a few years. I will be cutting mostly 1" walnut, alder and maple but sometimes will be cutting 2" planks of the same wood.

I am looking at two G1023R Grizzly table saws that are identical except for the motors. The one on sale is a 5hp version (G1023RLA 40 which is the same as the G1023RLWX but with different a paint design) and is now on sale for $300 less than the 3hp version (G1023RLW) . My circuit is #10 wire with a 30 amp GFCI breaker and if I downsized this breaker to a 20 amp breaker it will cost just over $100. Since my panel was inspected and signed off with a 30 amp breaker then it would be better to not change it but that is not a big deal.

I can save about $450 going with the 5hp version.

Would most hobbyist woodworkers go with the 5hp version and save the $450 ? I can then use that savings toward accessories and dust collection.
Why would you downsize the breaker? You can use a 3HP motor on a 30A breaker.

You have a dual breaker for 240VAC equipment, right? You need that for the 3HP and 5HP motors- operating on 240VAC is more efficient and you can't use a 30A breaker for a 5HP motor on 120V service because at startup and under load, it could reach the draw of 5HP and that calculates to 31.08Amperes. Using 240V is better- I have a G1023 that I bought around 2003 and it has cut full 3" stock with no problem, but I use a Forrest WoodWorker II blade and I don't let it become dull enough to drag- the friction caused by a blade that's dull or covered with pitch/sap will be dangerous, it won't cut cleanly and that can kill the blade by causing hot spots and warping of the blade.

WRT safety, that's mainly up to you and your techniques. If you know that cutting a rabbet with the saw will cause the cutoff to kick back, stand to the side, make sure your hands are out of the path and make sure the piece can't hit anything important- for a reference, when I did what I mentioned, I knew it would kick back and when it did, the 1/4" x 1/2" piece hit the interior face of my insulated garage door and pierced the sheet metal.

Don't skimp on your blades- that can be dangerous and it will waste lumber. Any time you buy a blade, spin the arbor nut on to the point where the blade can turn freely on the shaft, but without being so loose that it can wobble. With the power off, spin the blade in the shaft- if you have a dial indicator, that will show how far from flat the blade is. If it's cupped or wobbles, return it and get a different one. It may flatten to some extent while spinning under power, but if you have to stop the motor while the blade is still in the kerf, it will hog out some of the wood and that's not a good thing.
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He needs to use the breaker recommended by the manufacturer….
Knowing how the NEC is doing stuff nowadays, the oversize wire may not fit the correct size breaker. I tried to install a 15A duplex into an existing box with a 12AWG Romex supply. It was a no-go. Couldn't stab the wire. Tried to go back to the hook and loop and the screw wouldn't open far enough to hook the loop. REALLY???
with difference of the two motors is mainly input current. 13.5A vs 25.0A both run at 3450 RPMs. so wiring for the larger motor will need to be for a 30 amp circuit.

if a kick back was to occur the motor load does not change that much. most saws current is running at 2/3 of max current.
most saw motors do not have a Motor Service Factor (SF) . it is the percentage of overloading the motor can handle for short periods when operating normally within the correct voltage tolerances.
For example, the standard SF for motors is 1.15. This means that a 10-hp motor with a 1.15 SF could provide 11.5 hp when required for short-term use.
Traditionally, totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors had an SF of 1.0, but most manufacturers now offer TEFC motors with service factors of 1.15 but there is large cost to do so
Good Luck
on the Acquisition of the new saw
I've found 1.0 S.F. motors have a fast breakdown under load. They're good for compressors, pumps and other consistent load applications. You're right about the 1.15 TEFC costing more, but if you're running close to maxed out sometimes while woodworking, it's worth it. I don't buy replacement motors that aren't, and if it's not on the nameplate, I don't buy it.
We will just have to let the OP work out the issues with the saw setup.
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