Grizzly Table Saw question - 5hp vs 3hp

2595 Views 45 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Miket, 2 mo ago

MarkP1

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month and more when I retire in a few years. I will be cutting mostly 1" walnut, alder and maple but sometimes will be cutting 2" planks of the same wood.

I am looking at two G1023R Grizzly table saws that are identical except for the motors. The one on sale is a 5hp version (G1023RLA 40 which is the same as the G1023RLWX but with different a paint design) and is now on sale for $300 less than the 3hp version (G1023RLW) . My circuit is #10 wire with a 30 amp GFCI breaker and if I downsized this breaker to a 20 amp breaker it will cost just over $100. Since my panel was inspected and signed off with a 30 amp breaker then it would be better to not change it but that is not a big deal.

I can save about $450 going with the 5hp version.

Would most hobbyist woodworkers go with the 5hp version and save the $450 ? I can then use that savings toward accessories and dust collection.

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Rebelwork

· #2 · 3 mo ago

Get the 5hp. you don’t need it, but it ain’t hurting anything..

Put the extra into SAW blades..

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MarkP1

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

Thank you for responding Rebelwork. Do you think the feel of the saw when I use it will be quite similar ?

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Rebelwork

· #4 · 3 mo ago

The same..

Only time it really makes a difference is on thick lumber. I cut hickory on my 3hp without a problem but it comes down to blade.

woodnthings

· #5 · 3 mo ago

MarkP1 said:
I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month and more when I retire in a few years. I will be cutting mostly 1" walnut, alder and maple but sometimes will be cutting 2" planks of the same wood.

I am looking at two G1023R Grizzly table saws that are identical except for the motors. The one on sale is a 5hp version (G1023RLA 40 which is the same as the G1023RLWX but with different a paint design) and is now on sale for $300 less than the 3hp version (G1023RLW) . My circuit is #10 wire with a 30 amp GFCI breaker and if I downsized this breaker to a 20 amp breaker it will cost just over $100. Since my panel was inspected and signed off with a 30 amp breaker then it would be better to not change it but that is not a big deal.

I can save about $450 going with the 5hp version.

Would most hobbyist woodworkers go with the 5hp version and save the $450 ? I can then use that savings toward accessories and dust collection.

You will never need the full 5 HP as a hobbyist.
I own both 3 HP 12" Craftsman saws and A 5 hp 12" Powermatic saw.
The 5 HP is scary powerful and if you ever have a kickback it may result in increased damage.
A 3 HP kickback is bad enough. I've had a few before I started reusing my splitters, but none afterwards.
Yes, $450 is a lot to save, but I'm just warning you about what the difference in HP may mean.
Normal cutting of 3/4" thick plywood cabinet panels won't even require 1 HP.
Maximum cutting height of those 10" saws is about 3.25" or so. Even that is a lot of blade to have exposed.
Your point about having to change the breaker to a 20 AMP breaker is OK, but no need to change the wire for the 3 HP saw. Leave as is for the 5 HP saw.
The breaker protects the wiring to the breaker panel, not the saw itself. If the demand from the saw exceeds 20 AMPs -/+ it will trip the 20 AMP breaker.

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Jar944_2

· #6 · 3 mo ago

Get the 5hp, save some cash. If both were the same price I'd still say get the 5hp.

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woodnthings

· #7 · 3 mo ago

I'll just add this.
Have you ever stalled a full 3 HP induction motor powered saw?
Have you had a kickback from a 3 HP induction motor saw?
Do you rip 3" hardwood on a regular basis, like a production shop?
Just things you need to consider when making a decision like this.

I'll also say my very first cut on my new 5 HP Powermatic was an "explosion" of wood fragments from a Pine scrap I ripped without the guard or splitter.
I really don't know what happened because I've ripped thousands of feet on a table saw, BUT it scared the crap out of me.
I have stalled my Craftsman 3 HP saws by over feeing or having a blade pinch from wood closing up, when there was no splitter in place.
I also have a safety OFF switch I can bump OFF with my upper leg in an emergency when I don't want to remove either hand to reach for it.
I modified the ON/OFF switch on the % HP so the OFF button protrudes 1/2" further out for the same reason.

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Rebelwork

· #8 · 3 mo ago (Edited by Moderator)

woodnthings said:
I'll just add this.
Have you ever stalled a full 3 HP induction motor powered saw?
Have you had a kickback from a 3 HP induction motor saw?
Do you rip 3" hardwood on a regular basis, like a production shop?
Just things you need to consider when making a decision like this.

MarkP1
“I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month”

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MarkP1

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

I have used table saws and built some furniture over the years but haven't spent a lot of time mastering them. I once worked in a tool and die shop for a couple years and operated lathes and mills so I have some experience with powerful equipment.

woodnthings

· #10 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

MarkP1 said:
I have used table saws and built some furniture over the years but haven't spent a lot of time mastering them. I once worked in a tool and die shop for a couple years and operated lathes and mills so I have some experience with powerful equipment.

Lathes are one thing, table saws are another, and I use and have both. I'm not discounting your experience at all.
However, here's the difference. A lathe is a "point contact" material removal machine.
A table saw has a 8" plane of rotating teeth in a kerf that it just produced, quite different.
Any deviation of the workpiece from parallel to the plane of the blade may result in a bind or kickback.
The blade speed is roughly 55 mph at the perimeter and put 3 HP behind it ..... flesh is softer than wood.
The interesting thing these days is that a Saw Stop will prevent a flesh injury, but not a kickback.
I have found in my 55 years of using a table saw that a riving knife or as found on older saws, a splitter plate will keep the workpiece registered lightly against the fence as it's push past the blade, a great safety, anti-kickback device.
Your newer saw will come with a riving knife and it's best if it's always in place. It will rise and fall with the blade, unlike a splitter plate which is at a fixed height, about 4", and is sometimes "in the way" for certain operations.
I'm glad you here asking questions, and there is a wealth of experience here for answers.

An interesting discussion of blade speed and torque:

woodsmithspirit.com

Does Table Saw RPM Matter? - Woodsmith Spirit

Table saw specifications usually quote a no-load rpm. I often receive questions about the importance of this figure and whether it matters when making a

woodsmithspirit.com

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Steve Neul

· #11 · 3 mo ago

MarkP1 said:
I am a hobbyist and plan to use my table saw a couple times a month and more when I retire in a few years. I will be cutting mostly 1" walnut, alder and maple but sometimes will be cutting 2" planks of the same wood.

I am looking at two G1023R Grizzly table saws that are identical except for the motors. The one on sale is a 5hp version (G1023RLA 40 which is the same as the G1023RLWX but with different a paint design) and is now on sale for $300 less than the 3hp version (G1023RLW) . My circuit is #10 wire with a 30 amp GFCI breaker and if I downsized this breaker to a 20 amp breaker it will cost just over $100. Since my panel was inspected and signed off with a 30 amp breaker then it would be better to not change it but that is not a big deal.

I can save about $450 going with the 5hp version.

Would most hobbyist woodworkers go with the 5hp version and save the $450 ? I can then use that savings toward accessories and dust collection.

I would be inclined to get the 5hp. For what you are doing the 3hp would be enough however if someday you needed to rip miles of hardwood the 5hp would hold up better. The only downside is if you ever get a kickback with the 5hp you will remember it the rest of your life. It would be like being kicked by a mule.

There would be no reason to downsize the breaker. The breaker is just there to protect the wire, it has no bearing on the saw. The saw has it's own overload protection. If the saw drew more than the wiring that would be a different story.

Reactions: 2

FrankC

· #12 · 3 mo ago

This debate about the safety of a 5 HP vrs 3HP has gone on for a while, lots of assumptions one way or another. Personally I would go with the 5 HP, either one will hurt you if you let your guard down.

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DrRobert

· #13 · 3 mo ago

Normally you would never need 5 HP, but since it’s saving money and you’ve already got the circuit, it seems like a no brainer. Does it take a 12” blade? If so, bear in mind they are much more expensive.

I would take a very close look at all the features before you pull the trigger. Especially the fence. If all things are equal to other machines it’s a good deal. What’s the reason for different paint? Could it be a rebranded machine?

Jar944_2

· #14 · 3 mo ago

3

DrRobert said:
Normally you would never need 5 HP, but since it’s saving money and you’ve already got the circuit, it seems like a no brainer. Does it take a 12” blade? If so, bear in mind they are much more expensive.

I would take a very close look at all the features before you pull the trigger. Especially the fence. If all things are equal to other machines it’s a good deal. What’s the reason for different paint? Could it be a rebranded machine?

Same saw, 40th anniversary paint scheme. So save $400 because it's a odd color (black instead of green)

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woodnthings

· #15 · 3 mo ago

That black one is a beaut! I'd be going for that one myself, if I were in the market for a new saw. I know what a 5 HP saw will do, however in every sense of the words.
However, I'm not a risk adverse individual, having owned the famous Z1 Kawasaki of the '80's at 127 MPH momentarily on a deserted Xway at 6 AM on a Sunday morning. My buddy was faster at 129 MPH.

DrRobert

· #16 · 3 mo ago

WNT has brought to mind safety. Which I don't think a 5HP is inherently more unsafe, kickbacks excluded.

But I forgot to mention anyone, especially an infrequent user, should have safety as the foremost feature, not a deal.

I'm saying take a deep breath and look at a bigger picture. Yeah, I'm talking SawStop. I know some will disagree, hey I was one of them. Y

The saw below is the same money, admittedly way less power, not as much cast iron, but a high quality saw nonetheless that will do everything the occasional/hobby user would probably tackle.

Most of all, never a worried loved one, WHEN the accident occurs (and hopefully it' won't involve flesh), but if it does -- no life changing event!

@MarkP1 $800 more then the Grizzly gets you a 3HP PCS. Worth it? Discuss it with the beautiful lady in your photo

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Rebelwork

· #17 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

I’d be looking pretty hard at the anniversary saw..

I payed $1600 in 2000 for a Unisaw.

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Rebelwork

· #18 · 3 mo ago

Can’t say I've ever noticed the difference between a 3hp or 5 hp when it comes to kick back..

MarkP1

Discussion Starter · #19 · 3 mo ago

The different paint is the 40th anniversary version which is mostly black.

Rebelwork

· #20 · 3 mo ago

We had the black Grizzly 30 year anniversary band saw at the furniture company.

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