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Think you will find that Hut Crystal Coast wood finish not very durable. I stopped using it after finishing several pens. If you want a natural wood finish, it is okay. Everything else in the kit looks good to go!

So when will we see the first pen?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wildwood said:
Think you will find that Hut Crystal Coast wood finish not very durable. I stopped using it after finishing several pens. If you want a natural wood finish, it is okay. Everything else in the kit looks good to go!

So when will we see the first pen?
I bought that extra, the guy from rockler warned me too. But I bought it for something else.

Maybe the first one tonight. The wife went to a poison concert, the kids are gone at camp. So I got the place all to myself. But now I'm debating on drinkin some beers and cleaning up the shop.
These are the decisions I live for!
 

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I'll be interested to see how it goes. I'm new to woodturning and am hoping to try my hand at pens within the next week or two.
 

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Pens give you some instant gratification as long as they dont break on the lathe. I started to turn pens maybe 2 years ago and love it. I actually couldnt sleep tonight so I went out and made 3 different ones that I had glued the tubes in a month ago. I had some bigger projects that I was finishing, but glad I made the pens. If you have any questions, just ask. We will also need to see some pictures of your pens.
Nick
 

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Don't do it man. Once you start you'll start loosing sleep thinking about how such and such guy got such a glass finish and how did that dude get that crazy laminated pen to come out so cool, or how did he get those spirals in there. It's all down hill. Save yourself the pain and struggle of the addiction now. I didn't see the "De-activator" in there, I don't have any yet but with as often as I get CA on my fingers I could use it.

Be careful wiht these guys on here, they'll help you with every question you ask and suck you further in to the obsession. I'm already a lost cause and I don't even have a lathe, my nieghbor and I get together to turn. I blame woodworkingtalk.com and to many helpful answers from the forum users. Warning administered, that is all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mose said:
Don't do it man. Once you start you'll start loosing sleep thinking about how such and such guy got such a glass finish and how did that dude get that crazy laminated pen to come out so cool, or how did he get those spirals in there. It's all down hill. Save yourself the pain and struggle of the addiction now. I didn't see the "De-activator" in there, I don't have any yet but with as often as I get CA on my fingers I could use it.

Be careful wiht these guys on here, they'll help you with every question you ask and suck you further in to the obsession. I'm already a lost cause and I don't even have a lathe, my nieghbor and I get together to turn. I blame woodworkingtalk.com and to many helpful answers from the forum users. Warning administered, that is all.
Your too late! Here it is. The first and hopefully the ugliest pen I make.
I ruined 2 kits and four blanks to get the first one out. (learned a ton). I'm happy with it especially it being the first one.

Im already looking into bulk pen kits.

As far as finishing, this one got tung oil and satin WOP. haven't tried or seen anyone actually do the CA finish yet, so I did not attempt it yet. Next one will be with CA and then buffed.
 

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Your too late! Here it is. The first and hopefully the ugliest pen I make.
I ruined 2 kits and four blanks to get the first one out. (learned a ton). I'm happy with it especially it being the first one.

Im already looking into bulk pen kits.

As far as finishing, this one got tung oil and satin WOP. haven't tried or seen anyone actually do the CA finish yet, so I did not attempt it yet. Next one will be with CA and then buffed.
I learned to do a BLO/CA finish from this video

The best paper towels to use are the blue shop towels, Bounty and Brawney work OK as well but don't use the cheap stuff.
 

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All I can say is I tried.

That pen looks great to me. I think CA does a great job but guys on here have a lot of different finishing methods.

Have fun, good luck.
 

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Awesome! I don't have a lathe, but am considering it as it really looks like a blast. Need to start looking around for a lathe, not sure what I should be looking for exactly. Now with your first one under your belt, what's next?!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ChiknNutz said:
Awesome! I don't have a lathe, but am considering it as it really looks like a blast. Need to start looking around for a lathe, not sure what I should be looking for exactly. Now with your first one under your belt, what's next?!
Yes, it opened a whole new area for my lathe. I'm upgrading to a nova next year. I absolutely love turning. Bowls were first for me I even tried my hand at a segmented bow, then a few fan chain pulls, lidded boxes, tool handles, a few vases, rings, bracelets and now pens. I have the delta 46-460, I tried gluing up some 2X12 face to face 3layers thick. The larger items are more challenging.

I want to try some acrylics, corian and inlace. Also those brass ferrules are looking pretty sweet too.
 

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Hey the pen looks great after you put the hut cristal coat on try and find some triple e or tripe p polishe gives it a even brighter shine and before any of that i use tuge oil on it first.
 

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Being new to all this, I've never tried using CA, but it appears to be rather difficult to apply judging from comments I've read on the forum. If it's so difficult to apply, why use it. What's the advantage?
 

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CA is not difficult to apply. It does have some rules that most people are not aware of:

1. Humidity above 35% at time of contact. If it is dry when bonding it will not be as strong and will not be waterproof. Just wipe components with 70% alcohol before bonding to be sure.

2. Curing time is 24 hours. The longer it sits with out being banged or machined the stronger it gets. If a sudden impact is given within 24 hours the curing stops.

3. It does not bond in the presence of oxygen. Seams must be tight. This also means that you never try to reposition the pieces after first contact.

4. In wood it is best to rub with baking soda before application. This will fill pores and neutralize the acid in the wood. It does not like acid.

5. accelerants make the bond brittle overtime.

An interesting thing about the baking soda is that if you apply CA to a SMALL amount of baking soda you have a hard, tough, translucent plastic.

I have used this to bond end grain oak veneer. The joint was very strong since the baking soda filled the pores and then became pegs in the wood.

I hope this helps.

Ken
 
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