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General questions / Cabinet making

2455 Views 70 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rebelwork
I’m getting started in woodworking and starting with building kitchen cabinets for my daughter. I’ve done some DIY remodeling, but I have a bunch of questions about cabinetmaking. I’ve done a lot of research and watched tons of YouTube, but don’t know anyone to ask. Any tips, thoughts, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated❤

My setup -

Tools - I’ve built a 40” x 72” mobile workbench and down to last few steps - installing Jessem router lift, adding router fence & t-track, dust collection, electrical, finishing MDF top and adding storage underneath. DeWalt Equipment in bench includes 12” miter saw, router and DWE7491 10” table saw. A bunch of hand power tools, pocket-hole jig and hardware jigs.

Dust collection - I have a 5HP shop vac and cyclone dust collector which are located next to the router and table saw. The miter saw is on the other end about 2’ away. Finding the right size fittings is frustrated and confusing, but I think I can figure it out. I’m planning to have a router dust bin and table saw connected under the bench (less than a foot from collector) and a hose through the top that will quick connect to the miter saw, router fence and small power tools. I move the bench outside to do most of my work.

Project scope is full kitchen renovation with building 15lf wall cabinets and 19lf base cabinets. I want a very professional, custom look. I don’t want to cut corners, but also don’t want to waste time or money.

QUESTIONS

1) Do I need blast gates? How many? Where would I put them for table saw and router since the connections are underneath? Would I put a blast gate on the miter saw and router fence dust port? Is 2.5” hose sufficient?

2) Recommendations on dust collection hoses & fittings? I bought the Rockler Flexiport power tool kit, but am disappointed that only one connector fit my small power tools, so I’ll probably return it. Thinking about the DeWalt Airlock fittings since my power tools are DeWalt. Thoughts? Also looking at Centex, but may be same problem as Rockler.

3) Do I need a crosscut sled for cabinets or can it wait?

4) Less expensive to make or order cabinet doors? Daughter wants faceframe with inset doors.

5) Table saw came with 60 tooth combination blade and miter saw with 60 tooth fine finish carbide tipped blade. Are these sufficient for maple plywood and poplar cabinet construction?

6) Does this electrical plan make sense ? Extension cord from wall ~ 125V power inlet socket ~ automatic vacuum switch ~ heavy duty power strip under table with router, miter saw, table saw and recessed tabletop power strip for hand tools plugged in. I think this would work to turn on vacuum any time I turn on tools? I’ll mostly be the only one working so one large power tool operating at a time.

7) How much do I need to wear dust mask when working outside?

8) Best (easiest & cheapest) cabinet design & cutlist software? Is it worth the time and expense or should I calculate manually? I’ve handdrawn layout already.

9) Best source for quality drawer slides, hinges and cabinet hardware?

10) Painting - Daughter lives a couple of hours away, so I’ll have to transport cabinets. I’m planning to install cabinet boxes and then paint them using a sprayer. We will paint walls & trim and install counters, appliances and floors later so we don’t have to worry much about overspray. I’ll paint doors at my house or have them painted if I buy them. I’ve used BM Advance Cabinet & Trim paint, but seen good reviews about Sherwin Williams. Thought? Recommendactions?

11) Not really enjoying pocketholes much and don’t look forward to drilling hundreds, but haven’t tried dado construction. Dados seem more efficient, but pockethole method seems to be recommended more For beginners. Thoughts?

12) I’m using 3/4” plywood for boxes, but can I use 1/2” for drawers and custom organizers? Could I use 1/2“ plywood for laundry room cabinets that won’t hold a heavy load or countertop? Where is it appropriate to use 1/2”? My plywood supplier will cut sheets down for me. Is 32” crosscut most efficient? I don’t have a track saw or guide. I’m making a separate toe kick for bases.

WHEW!!! I know this is a lot, but I really appreciate any help and look forward to seeing your responses!

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My supplier gives me outstanding pricing on them. What kinds of issues were you having? I have been using mostly the MUV line for about 20 years never had an issue.
Bearings falling out. Either I got a bad batch , because many failed on the same chest of drawers. I started using the “knock offs” from the supplier with a larger bearing without a problem. I’ve used the KV’s on jobs without a problem when supplied.

Like I said it could have been a bad batch.,
RE Jointing & planing -
I think my supplier will do both or I can get someone to do it for me. The router fence has a jointing feature. Would that suffice? If necessary, I can buy or borrow a jointer & planer. Just wasn’t something I thought was a “must have” if I was buying stock.

S4s just isn't that consistent or flat and ripping even a perfectly straight board often results in a less straight board after.

Also typically you would run any sawn surface over a knife cutterhead to remove the saw marks and in some cases final size the stock. Could be a planer, jointer, shaper or hand plane.
Usually after we rip stock, plane, etc. I pull my straightest material for my doors first, second frames.
I get door stiles off the outer edges of wide boards. Depending on species usually it’s rift sawn.
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If you don't know or even have a cabinet supply house near you it might be worth it to find out if there's one you can make the trip to anyway just because you may end up saving a considerable amount of cha-ching on plywood and hardwood. Plywood at Lowes and HD is overly expensive and usually crap anyway.. Something about 81 bucks a sheet for 3/4.. I pay $52 per..Hardwood is about half the price and isn't pre-screwed up and picked through. I'd drive 50 miles or more if I had to rather than settle for box store material..
Last week or so I just needed about 6 feet of 1x3 so I ran up to HD and lowes only to find an 8 foot piece cost more than the cabinet shop would sell a full 12' 1x8. Wanna guess where I drove to? Supplier is about 12 miles..HD & Blowes? About a mile.. I might even consider walking 12 miles for a sheet of 3/4.. Ok..I'm lying. I don't wanna carry it across the driveway..
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I get door stiles off the outer edges of wide boards. Depending on species usually it’s rift sawn.
Never heard that one before for kitchen cabinet making..
I remembe4 Alco cabinets buying face frame /door stock already prepared. At the time it was .45 a foot..That was many years ago..

Regency Cabinets I worked for has a separate building where they make and sell panel blanks. These might be 32x48 panel blanks. Or other sizes..
Never heard that one before for kitchen cabinet making..
This was common practice for woodworkers at one time. The edges are basically quarter sawn. So the straight grained edges stayed straighter. Particularly on a china hutch or a long door with narrow rails. Every part of the board has a different purpose.
This was common practice for woodworkers at one time. The edges are basically quarter sawn. So the straight grained edges stayed straighter. Particularly on a china hutch or a long door with narrow rails. Every part of the board has a different purpose.
Must have been before my time, I started in the cabinet shop in 1983.

I hear some of the weirdest stuff on the internet..
Must have been before my time, I started in the cabinet shop in 1983.

I hear some of the weirdest stuff on the internet..
Yeah lot of weird stuff. I was first taught by an ol swede that was taught as an apprentice. And I have enjoyed studying wood for many years. And always used the edges of the boards with the narrow grain. And seems to work. If you look at older furniture you will notice it.
Lot of weird stuff on the net. But this has always worked for me. Had my shop n didn't watch the net. Just had to study it n remember what ol Doc taught me.
Maybe try grabbing a flat cut board n cut it into narrow strips n see what warps more. Or not. I'm just a ol guy on the net trying to help a bit because I did it n learned.
There was no internet when I started just skilled woodworkers long gone..

This isn’t a second or third career for me..Wood is the only career I’ve had..

I can go to any cabinet shop in the KC area and understand their construction because I’ve worked in many shops small and large. Ive worked with new cabinet guys who have worked in one shop and only understand their methods and find a lot of those smaller shops are wrong..
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