Woodworking Talk banner

General questions / Cabinet making

2427 Views 70 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rebelwork
3
I’m getting started in woodworking and starting with building kitchen cabinets for my daughter. I’ve done some DIY remodeling, but I have a bunch of questions about cabinetmaking. I’ve done a lot of research and watched tons of YouTube, but don’t know anyone to ask. Any tips, thoughts, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated❤

My setup -

Tools - I’ve built a 40” x 72” mobile workbench and down to last few steps - installing Jessem router lift, adding router fence & t-track, dust collection, electrical, finishing MDF top and adding storage underneath. DeWalt Equipment in bench includes 12” miter saw, router and DWE7491 10” table saw. A bunch of hand power tools, pocket-hole jig and hardware jigs.

Dust collection - I have a 5HP shop vac and cyclone dust collector which are located next to the router and table saw. The miter saw is on the other end about 2’ away. Finding the right size fittings is frustrated and confusing, but I think I can figure it out. I’m planning to have a router dust bin and table saw connected under the bench (less than a foot from collector) and a hose through the top that will quick connect to the miter saw, router fence and small power tools. I move the bench outside to do most of my work.

Project scope is full kitchen renovation with building 15lf wall cabinets and 19lf base cabinets. I want a very professional, custom look. I don’t want to cut corners, but also don’t want to waste time or money.

QUESTIONS

1) Do I need blast gates? How many? Where would I put them for table saw and router since the connections are underneath? Would I put a blast gate on the miter saw and router fence dust port? Is 2.5” hose sufficient?

2) Recommendations on dust collection hoses & fittings? I bought the Rockler Flexiport power tool kit, but am disappointed that only one connector fit my small power tools, so I’ll probably return it. Thinking about the DeWalt Airlock fittings since my power tools are DeWalt. Thoughts? Also looking at Centex, but may be same problem as Rockler.

3) Do I need a crosscut sled for cabinets or can it wait?

4) Less expensive to make or order cabinet doors? Daughter wants faceframe with inset doors.

5) Table saw came with 60 tooth combination blade and miter saw with 60 tooth fine finish carbide tipped blade. Are these sufficient for maple plywood and poplar cabinet construction?

6) Does this electrical plan make sense ? Extension cord from wall ~ 125V power inlet socket ~ automatic vacuum switch ~ heavy duty power strip under table with router, miter saw, table saw and recessed tabletop power strip for hand tools plugged in. I think this would work to turn on vacuum any time I turn on tools? I’ll mostly be the only one working so one large power tool operating at a time.

7) How much do I need to wear dust mask when working outside?

8) Best (easiest & cheapest) cabinet design & cutlist software? Is it worth the time and expense or should I calculate manually? I’ve handdrawn layout already.

9) Best source for quality drawer slides, hinges and cabinet hardware?

10) Painting - Daughter lives a couple of hours away, so I’ll have to transport cabinets. I’m planning to install cabinet boxes and then paint them using a sprayer. We will paint walls & trim and install counters, appliances and floors later so we don’t have to worry much about overspray. I’ll paint doors at my house or have them painted if I buy them. I’ve used BM Advance Cabinet & Trim paint, but seen good reviews about Sherwin Williams. Thought? Recommendactions?

11) Not really enjoying pocketholes much and don’t look forward to drilling hundreds, but haven’t tried dado construction. Dados seem more efficient, but pockethole method seems to be recommended more For beginners. Thoughts?

12) I’m using 3/4” plywood for boxes, but can I use 1/2” for drawers and custom organizers? Could I use 1/2“ plywood for laundry room cabinets that won’t hold a heavy load or countertop? Where is it appropriate to use 1/2”? My plywood supplier will cut sheets down for me. Is 32” crosscut most efficient? I don’t have a track saw or guide. I’m making a separate toe kick for bases.

WHEW!!! I know this is a lot, but I really appreciate any help and look forward to seeing your responses!

Attachments

See less See more
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Those look nice. Know 3/4” plywood is standard or preferred, but would 1/2” still be good? Idk if cost savings would be significant. I would think they would still be better than particle board or stock cabinets. We are also doing Quartz counters, so I want to make sure cabinets will support it.
I have PB interiors.

Youll have too many individual boxes to have to problem with support.
Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,
Recommendations on clamps? What kind, size and how many if I’m gluing up a couple of cabinets at a time? I’ve bought a few, but figured I would buy more once I get started and see what I like and need more of. I also need some corner squares and clamps.
Recommendations on clamps? What kind, size and how many if I’m gluing up a couple of cabinets at a time? I’ve bought a few, but figured I would buy more once I get started and see what I like and need more of. I also need some corner squares and clamps.
frame or frameless?

For framed, 3’ pipe clamps go a long way…

Looks like Grizzly is in the game..
Grizzly T28947 - Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp
View (29) Reviews
$1095
T28947 Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp
This tried-and-true pipe clamp is a staple in most shops.
The T28947 Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp is great for edge gluing multiple pieces of wood at whatever length pipe you need (pipe not included).
The bottom foot of the clamp helps keep it stable and provides clearance so you're not fighting to move the glue-up.
Cast jaws and rubber type soft pads are included.
Like all of the Grizzly pipe clamps, the T28947 comes with a 1-year warranty assuring the unit is free from factory defects.
View More Details
See less See more
Those look nice. Know 3/4” plywood is standard or preferred, but would 1/2” still be good? Idk if cost savings would be significant. I would think they would still be better than particle board or stock cabinets. We are also doing Quartz counters, so I want to make sure cabinets will support it.
1/2" is fine for face frame cabinets. 1/2" will be problematic if you end up building frameless for a variety of reasons.
Hello. I've built a few kitchens. Actually had 1 featured on the food channel a couple times. I think you can make cabinets with what you have.
I would suggest this. Buy a scale ruler n some drafting tools. A draw the kitchen out. This will help create a better picture in your mind. Then break each piece down. For the frame each style n rail. Make a cut list. Many of those pieces are the same. Cut them all at the same time. For the door I stay away from inset. Wood moves and you can get them square with even gaps. And then the doors warp.
I would suspect that if you're daughter wants free maybe she can give in a bit.
Cutting the door frames on your router table should be easy with a matching set of mortise n groove bits. With an overlay door you can use 3 way adjustable hidden soft closing door hinges.
For attaching the frame of carcus you can use 3/4" plywood for box. Birch is nice. And install 3/4"x3/4" wood strips along the edges to screw the frame to from the back. Use a 2" or so frame and allow a bit of frame to hang out so they mate up.
I'll say this. The time you spend correcting mistakes. You could have drawn each cabinet out and made a cut list of each piece. Then you can see it better in your mind if you have a question.
And save a ton of time. Setting up your equipment n making test runs for accuracy takes way more time than cutting out the pieces. Label everything lightly with a pencil.
Drawers. Add the required space for the drawer slides and add a 1/16". Then they won't stick. Use 1/2" ply. Round off the top edge or glue a wood strip on it. Make a box and use another piece for the face. Screw it on from the back.
Most cabinets are sprayed with laquer. Dries fast for recoating. I always used deft brand. And varathane brand poly on the front so it could be washed n remain nice. But I did custom. Full 3/4" oak or solid wood doors. Whatever the face was. Dovetail joints n such. All solid wood faces are doors and drawers except for the bottom. 4 coats of polyurethane on all solid wood.
Hey everyone starts. For me drawing it out helped the most. I would do this for every piece of furniture or cabinetry I made.
And standing behind a table saw for days cutting out pieces can get monotonous but rewarding when the customer comes in and asks. Is that really mine ? Made me feel really good
See less See more
For a decent looking cabinet. You can make the carcus's. Then use a piece of nice plywood and just trace everything out of the plywood. Cut it out. For the doors cut the hinge side first and then install the hinges. Then finish cutting it out. Doors will line up nicely.
I don't find inset any more difficult than overlay.

Op do you have a jointer and planer?
I don't find inset any more difficult than overlay.

Op do you have a jointer and planer?
More work involved.. I only have a planer.
More work involved.. I only have a planer.
Yeah I know shops that don't joint anything, and shops that joint everything. I'm in the everything is jointed camp.

As far as inset being more work, that's only true if you need to fit doors to each opening. That's only happening if the openings are not perfectly square. Frames that are square and inset doors that are square are not any more work than an overlay door.
you have a lot of “if” between the shop and installation. I can put a couple screws in a box to hold it up and throw square out of square..

Anytime I install full inset, I know I’m in for a long day..

I installed a minimum of 2500 set in 7 years. Insets and angle wraps are my longest day..
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I don't find inset any more difficult than overlay.

Op do you have a jointer and planer?
I don’t have either.
I don’t have either.
You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer, and I couldn't build cabinets that I felt were up to my standards without a jointer.
You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer, and I couldn't build cabinets that I felt were up to my standards without a jointer.
I’ve worked for a lot of cabinet shops that didn’t have a jointer..

Face frame stock it cut and ran through the planer. Door stock has never been.

You can run the door stock thru the planer, but it will size at the shaper..

If he buys from a supplier, he can order “stock”

If he was close by, I’d run it for him..
I’ve worked for a lot of cabinet shops that didn’t have a jointer..

Face frame stock it cut and ran through the planer. Door stock has never been.

You can run the door stock thru the planer, but it will size at the shaper..
Right, but AMCwoodwork doesn't have a planer, shaper or edge sander.

I final size door and face frame stock on a shaper with outboard fence, but that's irrelevant to this thread.
Right, but AMCwoodwork doesn't have a planer, shaper or edge sander.

I final size door and face frame stock on a shaper with outboard fence, but that's irrelevant to this thread.
He commented he bought everything he needed.

I asked if he had a tool budget
Right, but AMCwoodwork doesn't have a planer, shaper or edge sander.

I final size door and face frame stock on a shaper with outboard fence, but that's irrelevant to this thread.
He‘s a hobbyist. He’s not going to have everything To start. I’ve worked for small shops that had very little equipment, but were labor intense. Nice to have a lot of tools, but not everybody does and have to find a way to get it done..
He‘s a hobbyist. He’s not going to have everything To start. I’ve worked for small shops that had very little equipment, but were labor intense. Nice to have a lot of tools, but not everybody does and have to find a way to get it done..
Which is why I said:

"You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer"
Which is why I said:

"You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer"
back to post #55
RE Jointing & planing -
I think my supplier will do both or I can get someone to do it for me. The router fence has a jointing feature. Would that suffice? If necessary, I can buy or borrow a jointer & planer. Just wasn’t something I thought was a “must have” if I was buying stock.
I stopped using the KV’s because of problems. It could be just a bad lot I got , but scared me away from them..

If you have accounts with the suppliers and quantity purchase , the prices vary
My supplier gives me outstanding pricing on them. What kinds of issues were you having? I have been using mostly the MUV line for about 20 years never had an issue.
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Top