I have PB interiors.
Youll have too many individual boxes to have to problem with support.
General questions / Cabinet making
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Youll have too many individual boxes to have to problem with support.
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Recommendations on clamps? What kind, size and how many if I’m gluing up a couple of cabinets at a time? I’ve bought a few, but figured I would buy more once I get started and see what I like and need more of. I also need some corner squares and clamps.
frame or frameless?
For framed, 3’ pipe clamps go a long way…
Looks like Grizzly is in the game..
Grizzly T28947 - Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp
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$1095
T28947 Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp
This tried-and-true pipe clamp is a staple in most shops.
The T28947 Bear Grip 3/4" Pipe Clamp is great for edge gluing multiple pieces of wood at whatever length pipe you need (pipe not included).
The bottom foot of the clamp helps keep it stable and provides clearance so you're not fighting to move the glue-up.
Cast jaws and rubber type soft pads are included.
Like all of the Grizzly pipe clamps, the T28947 comes with a 1-year warranty assuring the unit is free from factory defects.
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555 Posts
1/2" is fine for face frame cabinets. 1/2" will be problematic if you end up building frameless for a variety of reasons.
Hello. I've built a few kitchens. Actually had 1 featured on the food channel a couple times. I think you can make cabinets with what you have.
I would suggest this. Buy a scale ruler n some drafting tools. A draw the kitchen out. This will help create a better picture in your mind. Then break each piece down. For the frame each style n rail. Make a cut list. Many of those pieces are the same. Cut them all at the same time. For the door I stay away from inset. Wood moves and you can get them square with even gaps. And then the doors warp.
I would suspect that if you're daughter wants free maybe she can give in a bit.
Cutting the door frames on your router table should be easy with a matching set of mortise n groove bits. With an overlay door you can use 3 way adjustable hidden soft closing door hinges.
For attaching the frame of carcus you can use 3/4" plywood for box. Birch is nice. And install 3/4"x3/4" wood strips along the edges to screw the frame to from the back. Use a 2" or so frame and allow a bit of frame to hang out so they mate up.
I'll say this. The time you spend correcting mistakes. You could have drawn each cabinet out and made a cut list of each piece. Then you can see it better in your mind if you have a question.
And save a ton of time. Setting up your equipment n making test runs for accuracy takes way more time than cutting out the pieces. Label everything lightly with a pencil.
Drawers. Add the required space for the drawer slides and add a 1/16". Then they won't stick. Use 1/2" ply. Round off the top edge or glue a wood strip on it. Make a box and use another piece for the face. Screw it on from the back.
Most cabinets are sprayed with laquer. Dries fast for recoating. I always used deft brand. And varathane brand poly on the front so it could be washed n remain nice. But I did custom. Full 3/4" oak or solid wood doors. Whatever the face was. Dovetail joints n such. All solid wood faces are doors and drawers except for the bottom. 4 coats of polyurethane on all solid wood.
Hey everyone starts. For me drawing it out helped the most. I would do this for every piece of furniture or cabinetry I made.
And standing behind a table saw for days cutting out pieces can get monotonous but rewarding when the customer comes in and asks. Is that really mine ? Made me feel really good
I would suggest this. Buy a scale ruler n some drafting tools. A draw the kitchen out. This will help create a better picture in your mind. Then break each piece down. For the frame each style n rail. Make a cut list. Many of those pieces are the same. Cut them all at the same time. For the door I stay away from inset. Wood moves and you can get them square with even gaps. And then the doors warp.
I would suspect that if you're daughter wants free maybe she can give in a bit.
Cutting the door frames on your router table should be easy with a matching set of mortise n groove bits. With an overlay door you can use 3 way adjustable hidden soft closing door hinges.
For attaching the frame of carcus you can use 3/4" plywood for box. Birch is nice. And install 3/4"x3/4" wood strips along the edges to screw the frame to from the back. Use a 2" or so frame and allow a bit of frame to hang out so they mate up.
I'll say this. The time you spend correcting mistakes. You could have drawn each cabinet out and made a cut list of each piece. Then you can see it better in your mind if you have a question.
And save a ton of time. Setting up your equipment n making test runs for accuracy takes way more time than cutting out the pieces. Label everything lightly with a pencil.
Drawers. Add the required space for the drawer slides and add a 1/16". Then they won't stick. Use 1/2" ply. Round off the top edge or glue a wood strip on it. Make a box and use another piece for the face. Screw it on from the back.
Most cabinets are sprayed with laquer. Dries fast for recoating. I always used deft brand. And varathane brand poly on the front so it could be washed n remain nice. But I did custom. Full 3/4" oak or solid wood doors. Whatever the face was. Dovetail joints n such. All solid wood faces are doors and drawers except for the bottom. 4 coats of polyurethane on all solid wood.
Hey everyone starts. For me drawing it out helped the most. I would do this for every piece of furniture or cabinetry I made.
And standing behind a table saw for days cutting out pieces can get monotonous but rewarding when the customer comes in and asks. Is that really mine ? Made me feel really good
For a decent looking cabinet. You can make the carcus's. Then use a piece of nice plywood and just trace everything out of the plywood. Cut it out. For the doors cut the hinge side first and then install the hinges. Then finish cutting it out. Doors will line up nicely.
More work involved.. I only have a planer.
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Yeah I know shops that don't joint anything, and shops that joint everything. I'm in the everything is jointed camp.
As far as inset being more work, that's only true if you need to fit doors to each opening. That's only happening if the openings are not perfectly square. Frames that are square and inset doors that are square are not any more work than an overlay door.
you have a lot of “if” between the shop and installation. I can put a couple screws in a box to hold it up and throw square out of square..
Anytime I install full inset, I know I’m in for a long day..
I installed a minimum of 2500 set in 7 years. Insets and angle wraps are my longest day..
Anytime I install full inset, I know I’m in for a long day..
I installed a minimum of 2500 set in 7 years. Insets and angle wraps are my longest day..
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I don’t have either.
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You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer, and I couldn't build cabinets that I felt were up to my standards without a jointer.
I’ve worked for a lot of cabinet shops that didn’t have a jointer..
Face frame stock it cut and ran through the planer. Door stock has never been.
You can run the door stock thru the planer, but it will size at the shaper..
If he buys from a supplier, he can order “stock”
If he was close by, I’d run it for him..
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Right, but AMCwoodwork doesn't have a planer, shaper or edge sander.
I final size door and face frame stock on a shaper with outboard fence, but that's irrelevant to this thread.
He‘s a hobbyist. He’s not going to have everything To start. I’ve worked for small shops that had very little equipment, but were labor intense. Nice to have a lot of tools, but not everybody does and have to find a way to get it done..
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Which is why I said:
"You can get by without a lot of tools, but I don't see how that includes a planer"
back to post #55
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RE Jointing & planing -
I think my supplier will do both or I can get someone to do it for me. The router fence has a jointing feature. Would that suffice? If necessary, I can buy or borrow a jointer & planer. Just wasn’t something I thought was a “must have” if I was buying stock.
I think my supplier will do both or I can get someone to do it for me. The router fence has a jointing feature. Would that suffice? If necessary, I can buy or borrow a jointer & planer. Just wasn’t something I thought was a “must have” if I was buying stock.
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1,754 Posts
My supplier gives me outstanding pricing on them. What kinds of issues were you having? I have been using mostly the MUV line for about 20 years never had an issue.
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