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General questions / Cabinet making

2416 Views 70 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rebelwork
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I’m getting started in woodworking and starting with building kitchen cabinets for my daughter. I’ve done some DIY remodeling, but I have a bunch of questions about cabinetmaking. I’ve done a lot of research and watched tons of YouTube, but don’t know anyone to ask. Any tips, thoughts, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated❤

My setup -

Tools - I’ve built a 40” x 72” mobile workbench and down to last few steps - installing Jessem router lift, adding router fence & t-track, dust collection, electrical, finishing MDF top and adding storage underneath. DeWalt Equipment in bench includes 12” miter saw, router and DWE7491 10” table saw. A bunch of hand power tools, pocket-hole jig and hardware jigs.

Dust collection - I have a 5HP shop vac and cyclone dust collector which are located next to the router and table saw. The miter saw is on the other end about 2’ away. Finding the right size fittings is frustrated and confusing, but I think I can figure it out. I’m planning to have a router dust bin and table saw connected under the bench (less than a foot from collector) and a hose through the top that will quick connect to the miter saw, router fence and small power tools. I move the bench outside to do most of my work.

Project scope is full kitchen renovation with building 15lf wall cabinets and 19lf base cabinets. I want a very professional, custom look. I don’t want to cut corners, but also don’t want to waste time or money.

QUESTIONS

1) Do I need blast gates? How many? Where would I put them for table saw and router since the connections are underneath? Would I put a blast gate on the miter saw and router fence dust port? Is 2.5” hose sufficient?

2) Recommendations on dust collection hoses & fittings? I bought the Rockler Flexiport power tool kit, but am disappointed that only one connector fit my small power tools, so I’ll probably return it. Thinking about the DeWalt Airlock fittings since my power tools are DeWalt. Thoughts? Also looking at Centex, but may be same problem as Rockler.

3) Do I need a crosscut sled for cabinets or can it wait?

4) Less expensive to make or order cabinet doors? Daughter wants faceframe with inset doors.

5) Table saw came with 60 tooth combination blade and miter saw with 60 tooth fine finish carbide tipped blade. Are these sufficient for maple plywood and poplar cabinet construction?

6) Does this electrical plan make sense ? Extension cord from wall ~ 125V power inlet socket ~ automatic vacuum switch ~ heavy duty power strip under table with router, miter saw, table saw and recessed tabletop power strip for hand tools plugged in. I think this would work to turn on vacuum any time I turn on tools? I’ll mostly be the only one working so one large power tool operating at a time.

7) How much do I need to wear dust mask when working outside?

8) Best (easiest & cheapest) cabinet design & cutlist software? Is it worth the time and expense or should I calculate manually? I’ve handdrawn layout already.

9) Best source for quality drawer slides, hinges and cabinet hardware?

10) Painting - Daughter lives a couple of hours away, so I’ll have to transport cabinets. I’m planning to install cabinet boxes and then paint them using a sprayer. We will paint walls & trim and install counters, appliances and floors later so we don’t have to worry much about overspray. I’ll paint doors at my house or have them painted if I buy them. I’ve used BM Advance Cabinet & Trim paint, but seen good reviews about Sherwin Williams. Thought? Recommendactions?

11) Not really enjoying pocketholes much and don’t look forward to drilling hundreds, but haven’t tried dado construction. Dados seem more efficient, but pockethole method seems to be recommended more For beginners. Thoughts?

12) I’m using 3/4” plywood for boxes, but can I use 1/2” for drawers and custom organizers? Could I use 1/2“ plywood for laundry room cabinets that won’t hold a heavy load or countertop? Where is it appropriate to use 1/2”? My plywood supplier will cut sheets down for me. Is 32” crosscut most efficient? I don’t have a track saw or guide. I’m making a separate toe kick for bases.

WHEW!!! I know this is a lot, but I really appreciate any help and look forward to seeing your responses!

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Bama…Started watching them serious around 2010…Amari Cooper fan..
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War Damn Eagle! Congrats on the Championship!
Not sure where they are going after this year. Bad two years
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shouldn’t be hard to make upper blind corners..

If I’m reading this right. It’s a U shape and another wall by itself?
I like the comments about starting small. You are putting quite a bit on yourself. Inset doors are the most difficult cabinets to make taking time, patience, and precision. You have to be honest, or learn your ability level and what your shop is capable of producing. Absolutely perfect square and true stock is a must. Wood does not come that way. Do you have the ability to to produce straight and true stock for the face frames and doors? Do you have the setup and skill set to produce perfectly flat doors. Like others have stated I would suggest starting with some shop cabs or perhaps a vanity. For cab boxes I would suggest using prefin maple ply. The nice thing about prefin is you can finish just the face frames before they are applied to the cab for a sharp, clean look. You will need a method to break the sheets down. Wrestling a full sheet on a table saw can be very difficult and if not a good size saw, dangerous. I would do a lot of reading or investigating box construction, There are many ways to do it, each has their pros and cons. You will need to find a way that works for you. I admire you for being willing to take on such a task. Building a kitchen can be overwhelming even for the experienced. I have 50 years experience in shops and just remodeled my kitchen. Just hand sanding of the doors before and during finishing I clocked over 40 hours.
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My daughter and son in law did their kitchen. Took them a few months, one cabinet at a time. Daughter even bought paint and sprayed them. I refused to do her cabinets, she tried to tell me how to build them..

There were a few flaws, but she made good money on the sale of the house

Said she would never do it again..
Blum is worth the cost. I’ve used KV slides, too.
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Blum is worth the cost. I’ve used KV slides, too.
Blum is generally more than Grass, I won’t buy KV drawer slides anymore..

I often shop EBay and get deals on bulk..

I’ve used Grass, Blum, Salice, etc depending on deals offered.
I think I used Salice on the set Shown. Paxton lumber company offered me a deal on them, but a I had an account..Eventually Salice got to be pretty expensive and I went back to Grass.
shouldn’t be hard to make upper blind corners..

If I’m reading this right. It’s a U shape and another wall by itself?
Yes
My daughter and son in law did their kitchen. Took them a few months, one cabinet at a time. Daughter even bought paint and sprayed them. I refused to do her cabinets, she tried to tell me how to build them..

There were a few flaws, but she made good money on the sale of the house

Said she would never do it again..
This may be a ”one & done” but I have three daughters. The older two are 25 year old twins. I know when I finish this house, her twin will be buying one. The 22 year old wants to flip houses, but doesn’t want to help me or even watch. I’m not financing that!
Yes

This may be a ”one & done” but I have three daughters. The older two are 25 year old twins. I know when I finish this house, her twin will be buying one. The 22 year old wants to flip houses, but doesn’t want to help me or even watch. I’m not financing that!
Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,
2
You can do it man. I just did our new kitchen having never built a cabinet before. I have been doing carpentry for quite a while but never anything more detailed than some crown moulding.

So I know the basics of measuring and planning but had to learn A LOT of new tools and processes.

That said I was amazed at the space all that stuff took up. Had it stacked in 2 rooms of the house because the shop was only 16x 20 so 3 or 4 carcasses and it was full.

Painted with BM Command and an airless sprayer. Turned out OK.
I would gladly build 10 more of these kitchens than have to go through that process again. What a sucky mess.

Thinking of trying inset doors on the dog wash station I'm building soon but not sure me and my tools are up to that yet.
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I will add that it is far from perfection, a couple doors aren't perfectly flat, and some minor stuff like paint in the groove between door panel and rails and stiles but I saved about 10k compared to my neighbors who just had a custom kitchen done. Theirs is all 1/2 ply but dove tail drawers and some other fluff.
Mine are all .75 ply with nailed together drawers but for 10k I'll be ok.
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8’ ceilings? Have you decided on a frame size for the face frames?
I found a book by Danny Proulx called "Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets" to be very helpful when I did my first kitchen. I used the Dewault Track saw to break down the baltic birch plywood I used for the boxes. Make sure you get cabinet sized plywood....not the stuff from HD or Lowes. You want 96.5 by 48.5. That way you can get two 24 inch base cabinets from a piece of plywood including the saw kerf. Barker Door is a good option for drawer boxes, fronts, and cabinet doors. If you don't have the tools or exprtise to make those, it can be very efficient from a money and time perspective to order those. Good luck. It's a huge project and really can't be done well on the cheap. Tom
Only way I’ll do full inset doors is with a edge sander.

I’ll cut out the box parts, doors and drawers. Assemble the doors and drawers and frames because they take the least amount of space.

I always install the cabinets with the doors, so I can adjus5 for the doors and drawers,
Blum is worth the cost. I’ve used KV slides, too.
Slides I use 100% KV MUV slides. I get them at a great price point and they work extremely smooth. I have even redone my system for furniture and have been using them in my dressers. Hinges I use mostly KV, but I like the Blum soft close ff hinges too.
Slides I use 100% KV MUV slides. I get them at a great price point and they work extremely smooth. I have even redone my system for furniture and have been using them in my dressers. Hinges I use mostly KV, but I like the Blum soft close ff hinges too.
I stopped using the KV’s because of problems. It could be just a bad lot I got , but scared me away from them..

If you have accounts with the suppliers and quantity purchase , the prices vary
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I like the comments about starting small. You are putting quite a bit on yourself. Inset doors are the most difficult cabinets to make taking time, patience, and precision. You have to be honest, or learn your ability level and what your shop is capable of producing. Absolutely perfect square and true stock is a must. Wood does not come that way. Do you have the ability to to produce straight and true stock for the face frames and doors? Do you have the setup and skill set to produce perfectly flat doors. Like others have stated I would suggest starting with some shop cabs or perhaps a vanity. For cab boxes I would suggest using prefin maple ply. The nice thing about prefin is you can finish just the face frames before they are applied to the cab for a sharp, clean look. You will need a method to break the sheets down. Wrestling a full sheet on a table saw can be very difficult and if not a good size saw, dangerous. I would do a lot of reading or investigating box construction, There are many ways to do it, each has their pros and cons. You will need to find a way that works for you. I admire you for being willing to take on such a task. Building a kitchen can be overwhelming even for the experienced. I have 50 years experience in shops and just remodeled my kitchen. Just hand sanding of the doors before and during finishing I clocked over 40 hours.
Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..
You can do it man. I just did our new kitchen having never built a cabinet before. I have been doing carpentry for quite a while but never anything more detailed than some crown moulding.

So I know the basics of measuring and planning but had to learn A LOT of new tools and processes.

That said I was amazed at the space all that stuff took up. Had it stacked in 2 rooms of the house because the shop was only 16x 20 so 3 or 4 carcasses and it was full.

Painted with BM Command and an airless sprayer. Turned out OK.
I would gladly build 10 more of these kitchens than have to go through that process again. What a sucky mess.

Thinking of trying inset doors on the dog wash station I'm building soon but not sure me and my tools are up to that yet. View attachment 449425 View attachment 449426

I will add that it is far from perfection, a couple doors aren't perfectly flat, and some minor stuff like paint in the groove between door panel and rails and stiles but I saved about 10k compared to my neighbors who just had a custom kitchen done. Theirs is all 1/2 ply but dove tail drawers and some other fluff.
Mine are all .75 ply with nailed together drawers but for 10k I'll be ok.
that looks great!
Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,
I’ve bought almost every I need except more clamps, maybe a dado stack. My daughter keeps sending me pictures of frameless cabinets, so I went over the differences (for about the 10th time) and she’s still confused about it. I finally said if she couldn’t tell much difference in inset and frameless, that I’m going with frameless. I think she just doesn’t like the partial overlay style.
I had a falling out with my daughter building hers. She couldn't make up her mind and wanTed a crazy build.

Lots of options..thinner frames?I built these for a lady trying to get as much as she could from a condo..
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Those look nice. Know 3/4” plywood is standard or preferred, but would 1/2” still be good? Idk if cost savings would be significant. I would think they would still be better than particle board or stock cabinets. We are also doing Quartz counters, so I want to make sure cabinets will support it.
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