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I like the comments about starting small. You are putting quite a bit on yourself. Inset doors are the most difficult cabinets to make taking time, patience, and precision. You have to be honest, or learn your ability level and what your shop is capable of producing. Absolutely perfect square and true stock is a must. Wood does not come that way. Do you have the ability to to produce straight and true stock for the face frames and doors? Do you have the setup and skill set to produce perfectly flat doors. Like others have stated I would suggest starting with some shop cabs or perhaps a vanity. For cab boxes I would suggest using prefin maple ply. The nice thing about prefin is you can finish just the face frames before they are applied to the cab for a sharp, clean look. You will need a method to break the sheets down. Wrestling a full sheet on a table saw can be very difficult and if not a good size saw, dangerous. I would do a lot of reading or investigating box construction, There are many ways to do it, each has their pros and cons. You will need to find a way that works for you. I admire you for being willing to take on such a task. Building a kitchen can be overwhelming even for the experienced. I have 50 years experience in shops and just remodeled my kitchen. Just hand sanding of the doors before and during finishing I clocked over 40 hours.
 

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My daughter and son in law did their kitchen. Took them a few months, one cabinet at a time. Daughter even bought paint and sprayed them. I refused to do her cabinets, she tried to tell me how to build them..

There were a few flaws, but she made good money on the sale of the house

Said she would never do it again..
 

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I think I used Salice on the set Shown. Paxton lumber company offered me a deal on them, but a I had an account..Eventually Salice got to be pretty expensive and I went back to Grass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
shouldn’t be hard to make upper blind corners..

If I’m reading this right. It’s a U shape and another wall by itself?
Yes
My daughter and son in law did their kitchen. Took them a few months, one cabinet at a time. Daughter even bought paint and sprayed them. I refused to do her cabinets, she tried to tell me how to build them..

There were a few flaws, but she made good money on the sale of the house

Said she would never do it again..
This may be a ”one & done” but I have three daughters. The older two are 25 year old twins. I know when I finish this house, her twin will be buying one. The 22 year old wants to flip houses, but doesn’t want to help me or even watch. I’m not financing that!
 

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Yes

This may be a ”one & done” but I have three daughters. The older two are 25 year old twins. I know when I finish this house, her twin will be buying one. The 22 year old wants to flip houses, but doesn’t want to help me or even watch. I’m not financing that!
Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,
 

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You can do it man. I just did our new kitchen having never built a cabinet before. I have been doing carpentry for quite a while but never anything more detailed than some crown moulding.

So I know the basics of measuring and planning but had to learn A LOT of new tools and processes.

That said I was amazed at the space all that stuff took up. Had it stacked in 2 rooms of the house because the shop was only 16x 20 so 3 or 4 carcasses and it was full.

Painted with BM Command and an airless sprayer. Turned out OK.
I would gladly build 10 more of these kitchens than have to go through that process again. What a sucky mess.

Thinking of trying inset doors on the dog wash station I'm building soon but not sure me and my tools are up to that yet.
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I will add that it is far from perfection, a couple doors aren't perfectly flat, and some minor stuff like paint in the groove between door panel and rails and stiles but I saved about 10k compared to my neighbors who just had a custom kitchen done. Theirs is all 1/2 ply but dove tail drawers and some other fluff.
Mine are all .75 ply with nailed together drawers but for 10k I'll be ok.
 

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I found a book by Danny Proulx called "Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets" to be very helpful when I did my first kitchen. I used the Dewault Track saw to break down the baltic birch plywood I used for the boxes. Make sure you get cabinet sized plywood....not the stuff from HD or Lowes. You want 96.5 by 48.5. That way you can get two 24 inch base cabinets from a piece of plywood including the saw kerf. Barker Door is a good option for drawer boxes, fronts, and cabinet doors. If you don't have the tools or exprtise to make those, it can be very efficient from a money and time perspective to order those. Good luck. It's a huge project and really can't be done well on the cheap. Tom
 

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Only way I’ll do full inset doors is with a edge sander.

I’ll cut out the box parts, doors and drawers. Assemble the doors and drawers and frames because they take the least amount of space.

I always install the cabinets with the doors, so I can adjus5 for the doors and drawers,
 

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Slides I use 100% KV MUV slides. I get them at a great price point and they work extremely smooth. I have even redone my system for furniture and have been using them in my dressers. Hinges I use mostly KV, but I like the Blum soft close ff hinges too.
I stopped using the KV’s because of problems. It could be just a bad lot I got , but scared me away from them..

If you have accounts with the suppliers and quantity purchase , the prices vary
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I like the comments about starting small. You are putting quite a bit on yourself. Inset doors are the most difficult cabinets to make taking time, patience, and precision. You have to be honest, or learn your ability level and what your shop is capable of producing. Absolutely perfect square and true stock is a must. Wood does not come that way. Do you have the ability to to produce straight and true stock for the face frames and doors? Do you have the setup and skill set to produce perfectly flat doors. Like others have stated I would suggest starting with some shop cabs or perhaps a vanity. For cab boxes I would suggest using prefin maple ply. The nice thing about prefin is you can finish just the face frames before they are applied to the cab for a sharp, clean look. You will need a method to break the sheets down. Wrestling a full sheet on a table saw can be very difficult and if not a good size saw, dangerous. I would do a lot of reading or investigating box construction, There are many ways to do it, each has their pros and cons. You will need to find a way that works for you. I admire you for being willing to take on such a task. Building a kitchen can be overwhelming even for the experienced. I have 50 years experience in shops and just remodeled my kitchen. Just hand sanding of the doors before and during finishing I clocked over 40 hours.
Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..
You can do it man. I just did our new kitchen having never built a cabinet before. I have been doing carpentry for quite a while but never anything more detailed than some crown moulding.

So I know the basics of measuring and planning but had to learn A LOT of new tools and processes.

That said I was amazed at the space all that stuff took up. Had it stacked in 2 rooms of the house because the shop was only 16x 20 so 3 or 4 carcasses and it was full.

Painted with BM Command and an airless sprayer. Turned out OK.
I would gladly build 10 more of these kitchens than have to go through that process again. What a sucky mess.

Thinking of trying inset doors on the dog wash station I'm building soon but not sure me and my tools are up to that yet. View attachment 449425 View attachment 449426

I will add that it is far from perfection, a couple doors aren't perfectly flat, and some minor stuff like paint in the groove between door panel and rails and stiles but I saved about 10k compared to my neighbors who just had a custom kitchen done. Theirs is all 1/2 ply but dove tail drawers and some other fluff.
Mine are all .75 ply with nailed together drawers but for 10k I'll be ok.
that looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,
I’ve bought almost every I need except more clamps, maybe a dado stack. My daughter keeps sending me pictures of frameless cabinets, so I went over the differences (for about the 10th time) and she’s still confused about it. I finally said if she couldn’t tell much difference in inset and frameless, that I’m going with frameless. I think she just doesn’t like the partial overlay style.
 

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I had a falling out with my daughter building hers. She couldn't make up her mind and wanTed a crazy build.

Lots of options..thinner frames?I built these for a lady trying to get as much as she could from a condo..
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Those look nice. Know 3/4” plywood is standard or preferred, but would 1/2” still be good? Idk if cost savings would be significant. I would think they would still be better than particle board or stock cabinets. We are also doing Quartz counters, so I want to make sure cabinets will support it.
 
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