[AMCwoodwork]

I’m getting started in woodworking and starting with building kitchen cabinets for my daughter. I’ve done some DIY remodeling, but I have a bunch of questions about cabinetmaking. I’ve done a lot of research and watched tons of YouTube, but don’t know anyone to ask. Any tips, thoughts, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated❤

My setup -

Tools - I’ve built a 40” x 72” mobile workbench and down to last few steps - installing Jessem router lift, adding router fence & t-track, dust collection, electrical, finishing MDF top and adding storage underneath. DeWalt Equipment in bench includes 12” miter saw, router and DWE7491 10” table saw. A bunch of hand power tools, pocket-hole jig and hardware jigs.

Dust collection - I have a 5HP shop vac and cyclone dust collector which are located next to the router and table saw. The miter saw is on the other end about 2’ away. Finding the right size fittings is frustrated and confusing, but I think I can figure it out. I’m planning to have a router dust bin and table saw connected under the bench (less than a foot from collector) and a hose through the top that will quick connect to the miter saw, router fence and small power tools. I move the bench outside to do most of my work.

Project scope is full kitchen renovation with building 15lf wall cabinets and 19lf base cabinets. I want a very professional, custom look. I don’t want to cut corners, but also don’t want to waste time or money.

QUESTIONS

1) Do I need blast gates? How many? Where would I put them for table saw and router since the connections are underneath? Would I put a blast gate on the miter saw and router fence dust port? Is 2.5” hose sufficient?

2) Recommendations on dust collection hoses & fittings? I bought the Rockler Flexiport power tool kit, but am disappointed that only one connector fit my small power tools, so I’ll probably return it. Thinking about the DeWalt Airlock fittings since my power tools are DeWalt. Thoughts? Also looking at Centex, but may be same problem as Rockler.

3) Do I need a crosscut sled for cabinets or can it wait?

4) Less expensive to make or order cabinet doors? Daughter wants faceframe with inset doors.

5) Table saw came with 60 tooth combination blade and miter saw with 60 tooth fine finish carbide tipped blade. Are these sufficient for maple plywood and poplar cabinet construction?

6) Does this electrical plan make sense ? Extension cord from wall ~ 125V power inlet socket ~ automatic vacuum switch ~ heavy duty power strip under table with router, miter saw, table saw and recessed tabletop power strip for hand tools plugged in. I think this would work to turn on vacuum any time I turn on tools? I’ll mostly be the only one working so one large power tool operating at a time.

7) How much do I need to wear dust mask when working outside?

8) Best (easiest & cheapest) cabinet design & cutlist software? Is it worth the time and expense or should I calculate manually? I’ve handdrawn layout already.

9) Best source for quality drawer slides, hinges and cabinet hardware?

10) Painting - Daughter lives a couple of hours away, so I’ll have to transport cabinets. I’m planning to install cabinet boxes and then paint them using a sprayer. We will paint walls & trim and install counters, appliances and floors later so we don’t have to worry much about overspray. I’ll paint doors at my house or have them painted if I buy them. I’ve used BM Advance Cabinet & Trim paint, but seen good reviews about Sherwin Williams. Thought? Recommendactions?

11) Not really enjoying pocketholes much and don’t look forward to drilling hundreds, but haven’t tried dado construction. Dados seem more efficient, but pockethole method seems to be recommended more For beginners. Thoughts?

12) I’m using 3/4” plywood for boxes, but can I use 1/2” for drawers and custom organizers? Could I use 1/2“ plywood for laundry room cabinets that won’t hold a heavy load or countertop? Where is it appropriate to use 1/2”? My plywood supplier will cut sheets down for me. Is 32” crosscut most efficient? I don’t have a track saw or guide. I’m making a separate toe kick for bases.

WHEW!!! I know this is a lot, but I really appreciate any help and look forward to seeing your responses!

 

[AMCwoodwork]

It’s one step at a time.

You need a layout to start. Dimemsions?

What state are you in?

If you’ve never made cabinets , you might want to build individual boxes and bang them together. Usually better to apply finished ends..

I’m in AL and have my layout. Not changing very much from current layout, but moving fridge, sink & DW. I’m planning to make individual boxes. The kitchen is only 9’ x 11.5”.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

AMCwoodwork… Do you have any cabinet suppliers nearby?

I haven’t found any close, but found a great supplier for the wood near my daughter’s. He was helpful and gave some good advice.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

#4…You really want a router table for this , but you can use a table saw. you probably want T&G doors and full inset usually requires an edge sander for best results.
View attachment 449376

I have a router lift in the bench and bought rail & stile bit set.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

No, I'm not in the cabinet business. I guess you could say I'm a "professional hobbyist". I believe my work is at best "darn good for an amateur" and I am never satisifed with the results compared to a professional shop. But I do have enough experience to give you some perspective on DIY cabinetry.

I've built two large kitchens, several vanities, a lot of built ins and numerous shop cabinets. If you've never built a cabinet, sorry, but a kitchen is not the place to start. That said, if you are an extremely talented person, not an issue. You've chosen the most difficult type, inset doors. I view a kitchen as a value center for the home & needs to be a top quality job.

I suggest you build a few cabinets for your shop to get your feet wet. Do them exactly the way you will the kitchen, and strive for the same standards. For me, hands down frameless is the easiest and most efficient cabinet method. Face frames add a lot of work, obstructive to an opening. That said, they are required for inset doors.

The big key to cabinets is accurate cutting of parts - dimensions and square, and keeping parts organized. If you're cabinets aren't square you will have trouble with drawer slides. That means a consistent and highly accurate way to cut parts. That's going to be difficult with your set up. You might consider buying a track saw and parallel guides. Wrestling a full sheet of ply through a table saw is an art in itself! And you need an organized, accurate parts list and a cut sheet. Sounds simple, but not that easy. I use Cutlist which gives me layouts for efficient cutting.

Around me, I can get a door built and painted professionally for a little more than twice what it costs me for materials. Good paint is not cheap! Bear in mind painted cabinets are harder to build than natural wood. Every gap, defect or seam sticks out like a sore thumb so you have to spend a lot more time prepping for paint. A drum sander is indisposable for levelling out doors.

Understand I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm saying get some practice, figure up your materials. Keep in mind good hardware is not cheap. The kitchen below I rebuild all the drawer boxes and used Blum tandem slides, door hinges replaced with soft close. To give you an idea, hardware ~$1500, paint $800, materials ~ $1200. You may find RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets worth looking into. Hard as it is to say, IKEA makes a very good cabinet. Just be careful a lot of them use lower quality drawer slides.

This was my first attempt at painting cabinets - never again!! If there's another time I'll have them made and painted by someone better than me.

View attachment 449378
View attachment 449379 View attachment 449380 View attachment 449381

That looks great! Thanks for taking the time to respond. I renovated my mother’s entire 1976 kitchen during Covid except for cabinet boxes. It was a learning curve for sure, but I got comfortable with the power tools. I had new doors made for her cabinets which were really odd sizes and built onsite (I think). I hated the painting part and used a sprayer, but it turned out pretty good. I installled the doors and drawers. My daughter can’t afford custom and we shopped around for stock and RTA. I think I can do better than what she can afford from a big box store or RTA. Quote was $7700 (40% off sale) from Cabinets to Go for 9 x 12 kitchen without extras she wants. I think IKEA was around $6k. Too much if I still have to assemble. I’m finishing up a vanity for her powder room before I start kitchen. Planning to build and install boxes first, then decide whether to make the doors. I have someone to make them if I decide not to. I know it’s a big challenge, but i have the time and space to do it. I have a contractor for electrical, plumbing & HVAC. He’s good about advice on site. My plywood supplier will cut down the sheets for me, so I don’t have to deal with full sheets. Is the Blum hardware worth the cost? This is her first house and she won’t be there long, so that’s a factor. It’s 30 years old and most of the units are not very updated. I’ve been watching videos, reading and researching tools, techniques, etc. for about 6 months. Building the workbench has helped too. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, but will have to be patient with myself. I looked at Cutlist and some other programs. I think it could save some money and avoid mistakes. Thanks again for your thoughts.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..

I was raised in Alabama

Do you have the room to build them and leave them till complete?

I’ll build base boxes with drawers & shelves, demo kitchen and install bases. After I’m satisfied with that, I’ll do the uppers and decide on make/buy doors. Planning to cut all the parts, then assemble. I have plenty of room.

War Eagle or RTR???

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..

Attached is current working layout. Old layout is not very functional - DW in one corner of the U and weird butterfly double sink in opposite corner. I’ve found a few inches by changing door to laundry room and moving peninsula out a little.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Bama…Started watching them serious around 2010…Amari Cooper fan..

War Damn Eagle! Congrats on the Championship!

 

[AMCwoodwork]

shouldn’t be hard to make upper blind corners..

If I’m reading this right. It’s a U shape and another wall by itself?

Yes

My daughter and son in law did their kitchen. Took them a few months, one cabinet at a time. Daughter even bought paint and sprayed them. I refused to do her cabinets, she tried to tell me how to build them..

There were a few flaws, but she made good money on the sale of the house

Said she would never do it again..

This may be a ”one & done” but I have three daughters. The older two are 25 year old twins. I know when I finish this house, her twin will be buying one. The 22 year old wants to flip houses, but doesn’t want to help me or even watch. I’m not financing that!

 

[AMCwoodwork]

I like the comments about starting small. You are putting quite a bit on yourself. Inset doors are the most difficult cabinets to make taking time, patience, and precision. You have to be honest, or learn your ability level and what your shop is capable of producing. Absolutely perfect square and true stock is a must. Wood does not come that way. Do you have the ability to to produce straight and true stock for the face frames and doors? Do you have the setup and skill set to produce perfectly flat doors. Like others have stated I would suggest starting with some shop cabs or perhaps a vanity. For cab boxes I would suggest using prefin maple ply. The nice thing about prefin is you can finish just the face frames before they are applied to the cab for a sharp, clean look. You will need a method to break the sheets down. Wrestling a full sheet on a table saw can be very difficult and if not a good size saw, dangerous. I would do a lot of reading or investigating box construction, There are many ways to do it, each has their pros and cons. You will need to find a way that works for you. I admire you for being willing to take on such a task. Building a kitchen can be overwhelming even for the experienced. I have 50 years experience in shops and just remodeled my kitchen. Just hand sanding of the doors before and during finishing I clocked over 40 hours.

Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..

You can do it man. I just did our new kitchen having never built a cabinet before. I have been doing carpentry for quite a while but never anything more detailed than some crown moulding.

So I know the basics of measuring and planning but had to learn A LOT of new tools and processes.

That said I was amazed at the space all that stuff took up. Had it stacked in 2 rooms of the house because the shop was only 16x 20 so 3 or 4 carcasses and it was full.

Painted with BM Command and an airless sprayer. Turned out OK.
I would gladly build 10 more of these kitchens than have to go through that process again. What a sucky mess.

Thinking of trying inset doors on the dog wash station I'm building soon but not sure me and my tools are up to that yet. View attachment 449425 View attachment 449426

I will add that it is far from perfection, a couple doors aren't perfectly flat, and some minor stuff like paint in the groove between door panel and rails and stiles but I saved about 10k compared to my neighbors who just had a custom kitchen done. Theirs is all 1/2 ply but dove tail drawers and some other fluff.
Mine are all .75 ply with nailed together drawers but for 10k I'll be ok.

that looks great!

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,

I’ve bought almost every I need except more clamps, maybe a dado stack. My daughter keeps sending me pictures of frameless cabinets, so I went over the differences (for about the 10th time) and she’s still confused about it. I finally said if she couldn’t tell much difference in inset and frameless, that I’m going with frameless. I think she just doesn’t like the partial overlay style.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Those look nice. Know 3/4” plywood is standard or preferred, but would 1/2” still be good? Idk if cost savings would be significant. I would think they would still be better than particle board or stock cabinets. We are also doing Quartz counters, so I want to make sure cabinets will support it.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

Do you have a budget for tooling?

To save on space, I would make the frames first, door and drawers.,

Recommendations on clamps? What kind, size and how many if I’m gluing up a couple of cabinets at a time? I’ve bought a few, but figured I would buy more once I get started and see what I like and need more of. I also need some corner squares and clamps.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

I don't find inset any more difficult than overlay.

Op do you have a jointer and planer?

I don’t have either.

 

[AMCwoodwork]

RE Jointing & planing -
I think my supplier will do both or I can get someone to do it for me. The router fence has a jointing feature. Would that suffice? If necessary, I can buy or borrow a jointer & planer. Just wasn’t something I thought was a “must have” if I was buying stock.