Woodworking Talk banner

General questions / Cabinet making

2446 Views 70 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rebelwork
I’m getting started in woodworking and starting with building kitchen cabinets for my daughter. I’ve done some DIY remodeling, but I have a bunch of questions about cabinetmaking. I’ve done a lot of research and watched tons of YouTube, but don’t know anyone to ask. Any tips, thoughts, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated❤

My setup -

Tools - I’ve built a 40” x 72” mobile workbench and down to last few steps - installing Jessem router lift, adding router fence & t-track, dust collection, electrical, finishing MDF top and adding storage underneath. DeWalt Equipment in bench includes 12” miter saw, router and DWE7491 10” table saw. A bunch of hand power tools, pocket-hole jig and hardware jigs.

Dust collection - I have a 5HP shop vac and cyclone dust collector which are located next to the router and table saw. The miter saw is on the other end about 2’ away. Finding the right size fittings is frustrated and confusing, but I think I can figure it out. I’m planning to have a router dust bin and table saw connected under the bench (less than a foot from collector) and a hose through the top that will quick connect to the miter saw, router fence and small power tools. I move the bench outside to do most of my work.

Project scope is full kitchen renovation with building 15lf wall cabinets and 19lf base cabinets. I want a very professional, custom look. I don’t want to cut corners, but also don’t want to waste time or money.

QUESTIONS

1) Do I need blast gates? How many? Where would I put them for table saw and router since the connections are underneath? Would I put a blast gate on the miter saw and router fence dust port? Is 2.5” hose sufficient?

2) Recommendations on dust collection hoses & fittings? I bought the Rockler Flexiport power tool kit, but am disappointed that only one connector fit my small power tools, so I’ll probably return it. Thinking about the DeWalt Airlock fittings since my power tools are DeWalt. Thoughts? Also looking at Centex, but may be same problem as Rockler.

3) Do I need a crosscut sled for cabinets or can it wait?

4) Less expensive to make or order cabinet doors? Daughter wants faceframe with inset doors.

5) Table saw came with 60 tooth combination blade and miter saw with 60 tooth fine finish carbide tipped blade. Are these sufficient for maple plywood and poplar cabinet construction?

6) Does this electrical plan make sense ? Extension cord from wall ~ 125V power inlet socket ~ automatic vacuum switch ~ heavy duty power strip under table with router, miter saw, table saw and recessed tabletop power strip for hand tools plugged in. I think this would work to turn on vacuum any time I turn on tools? I’ll mostly be the only one working so one large power tool operating at a time.

7) How much do I need to wear dust mask when working outside?

8) Best (easiest & cheapest) cabinet design & cutlist software? Is it worth the time and expense or should I calculate manually? I’ve handdrawn layout already.

9) Best source for quality drawer slides, hinges and cabinet hardware?

10) Painting - Daughter lives a couple of hours away, so I’ll have to transport cabinets. I’m planning to install cabinet boxes and then paint them using a sprayer. We will paint walls & trim and install counters, appliances and floors later so we don’t have to worry much about overspray. I’ll paint doors at my house or have them painted if I buy them. I’ve used BM Advance Cabinet & Trim paint, but seen good reviews about Sherwin Williams. Thought? Recommendactions?

11) Not really enjoying pocketholes much and don’t look forward to drilling hundreds, but haven’t tried dado construction. Dados seem more efficient, but pockethole method seems to be recommended more For beginners. Thoughts?

12) I’m using 3/4” plywood for boxes, but can I use 1/2” for drawers and custom organizers? Could I use 1/2“ plywood for laundry room cabinets that won’t hold a heavy load or countertop? Where is it appropriate to use 1/2”? My plywood supplier will cut sheets down for me. Is 32” crosscut most efficient? I don’t have a track saw or guide. I’m making a separate toe kick for bases.

WHEW!!! I know this is a lot, but I really appreciate any help and look forward to seeing your responses!

Attachments

See less See more
3
1 - 20 of 71 Posts
It’s one step at a time.

You need a layout to start. Dimemsions?

What state are you in?

If you’ve never made cabinets , you might want to build individual boxes and bang them together. Usually better to apply finished ends..
#4…You really want a router table for this , but you can use a table saw. you probably want T&G doors and full inset usually requires an edge sander for best results.
Cabinetry Furniture Property Countertop Window
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
No, I'm not in the cabinet business. I guess you could say I'm a "professional hobbyist". :) I believe my work is at best "darn good for an amateur" and I am never satisifed with the results compared to a professional shop. But I do have enough experience to give you some perspective on DIY cabinetry.

I've built two large kitchens, several vanities, a lot of built ins and numerous shop cabinets. If you've never built a cabinet, sorry, but a kitchen is not the place to start. That said, if you are an extremely talented person, not an issue. You've chosen the most difficult type, inset doors. I view a kitchen as a value center for the home & needs to be a top quality job.

I suggest you build a few cabinets for your shop to get your feet wet. Do them exactly the way you will the kitchen, and strive for the same standards. For me, hands down frameless is the easiest and most efficient cabinet method. Face frames add a lot of work, obstructive to an opening. That said, they are required for inset doors.

The big key to cabinets is accurate cutting of parts - dimensions and square, and keeping parts organized. If you're cabinets aren't square you will have trouble with drawer slides. That means a consistent and highly accurate way to cut parts. That's going to be difficult with your set up. You might consider buying a track saw and parallel guides. Wrestling a full sheet of ply through a table saw is an art in itself! And you need an organized, accurate parts list and a cut sheet. Sounds simple, but not that easy. I use Cutlist which gives me layouts for efficient cutting.

Around me, I can get a door built and painted professionally for a little more than twice what it costs me for materials. Good paint is not cheap! Bear in mind painted cabinets are harder to build than natural wood. Every gap, defect or seam sticks out like a sore thumb so you have to spend a lot more time prepping for paint. A drum sander is indisposable for levelling out doors.

Understand I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm saying get some practice, figure up your materials. Keep in mind good hardware is not cheap. The kitchen below I rebuild all the drawer boxes and used Blum tandem slides, door hinges replaced with soft close. To give you an idea, hardware ~$1500, paint $800, materials ~ $1200. You may find RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets worth looking into. Hard as it is to say, IKEA makes a very good cabinet. Just be careful a lot of them use lower quality drawer slides.

This was my first attempt at painting cabinets - never again!! If there's another time I'll have them made and painted by someone better than me. :)

Countertop Cabinetry Kitchen Kitchen stove Sink
:):)
Countertop Cabinetry Property Kitchen Window
Cabinetry Countertop Kitchen Wood Kitchen appliance
Wood Rectangle Flooring Bumper Automotive exterior
See less See more
4
  • Like
Reactions: 3
“compared to a professional shop” ? How do you know?

Its not right to label profession cabinet makers..
AMCwoodwork… Do you have any cabinet suppliers nearby?
+1 start smaller. Build a bathroom vanity or storage cabinets for your shop. Better to find out on a smaller scale your skills and your tools short comings.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
+1 start smaller. Build a bathroom vanity or storage cabinets for your shop. Better to find out on a smaller scale your skills and your tools short comings.
The problem with most starting it the cost to have someone build them and finish. If the job was bid at $7000, one feels they got a lot of wiggle room for tools, material and time. Problem… cabinets take space and time. Even if the+money is there, time usually isn’t..
“compared to a professional shop” ? How do you know?

Its not right to label profession cabinet makers..
Because I've seen a lot of cabinets built by commercial shops. Not satisified with MY results.

If I was labelling anyone, it was myself

Why are you so contradictory?

Maybe you should re-read my post. I refuse to argue. :)
  • Like
Reactions: 3
I apologize if I read you wrong.,You’re quality is yours and yours have alone. Don’t compare..

I remember comments about “production”. Makes one a bit touchy after awhile..
It’s one step at a time.

You need a layout to start. Dimemsions?

What state are you in?

If you’ve never made cabinets , you might want to build individual boxes and bang them together. Usually better to apply finished ends..
I’m in AL and have my layout. Not changing very much from current layout, but moving fridge, sink & DW. I’m planning to make individual boxes. The kitchen is only 9’ x 11.5”.
I’m in AL and have my layout. Not changing very much from current layout, but moving fridge, sink & DW. I’m planning to make individual boxes. The kitchen is only 9’ x 11.5”.
I was raised in Alabama

Do you have the room to build them and leave them till complete?
AMCwoodwork… Do you have any cabinet suppliers nearby?
I haven’t found any close, but found a great supplier for the wood near my daughter’s. He was helpful and gave some good advice.
#4…You really want a router table for this , but you can use a table saw. you probably want T&G doors and full inset usually requires an edge sander for best results.
View attachment 449376
I have a router lift in the bench and bought rail & stile bit set.
Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..
Tips for a woodworking project:

Blast gates optimize dust collection but are not necessary
Use hoses and fittings that fit your tool's ports
Consider a crosscut sled for precise cuts
Making cabinet doors is less expensive but takes more effort
Use a 60-tooth blade for cutting plywood
Wear a dust mask while working
Popular cabinet design software includes SketchUp and Cabinet Vision
Blum, Hettich, and Accuride are good hardware brands
BM Advance and Sherwin Williams are good paint options
Try pocket hole and dado construction
Use 1/2" plywood for lighter loads or laundry room cabinets
A 32" crosscut is common, but size depends on the project.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
No, I'm not in the cabinet business. I guess you could say I'm a "professional hobbyist". :) I believe my work is at best "darn good for an amateur" and I am never satisifed with the results compared to a professional shop. But I do have enough experience to give you some perspective on DIY cabinetry.

I've built two large kitchens, several vanities, a lot of built ins and numerous shop cabinets. If you've never built a cabinet, sorry, but a kitchen is not the place to start. That said, if you are an extremely talented person, not an issue. You've chosen the most difficult type, inset doors. I view a kitchen as a value center for the home & needs to be a top quality job.

I suggest you build a few cabinets for your shop to get your feet wet. Do them exactly the way you will the kitchen, and strive for the same standards. For me, hands down frameless is the easiest and most efficient cabinet method. Face frames add a lot of work, obstructive to an opening. That said, they are required for inset doors.

The big key to cabinets is accurate cutting of parts - dimensions and square, and keeping parts organized. If you're cabinets aren't square you will have trouble with drawer slides. That means a consistent and highly accurate way to cut parts. That's going to be difficult with your set up. You might consider buying a track saw and parallel guides. Wrestling a full sheet of ply through a table saw is an art in itself! And you need an organized, accurate parts list and a cut sheet. Sounds simple, but not that easy. I use Cutlist which gives me layouts for efficient cutting.

Around me, I can get a door built and painted professionally for a little more than twice what it costs me for materials. Good paint is not cheap! Bear in mind painted cabinets are harder to build than natural wood. Every gap, defect or seam sticks out like a sore thumb so you have to spend a lot more time prepping for paint. A drum sander is indisposable for levelling out doors.

Understand I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm saying get some practice, figure up your materials. Keep in mind good hardware is not cheap. The kitchen below I rebuild all the drawer boxes and used Blum tandem slides, door hinges replaced with soft close. To give you an idea, hardware ~$1500, paint $800, materials ~ $1200. You may find RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets worth looking into. Hard as it is to say, IKEA makes a very good cabinet. Just be careful a lot of them use lower quality drawer slides.

This was my first attempt at painting cabinets - never again!! If there's another time I'll have them made and painted by someone better than me. :)

View attachment 449378 :):)
View attachment 449379 View attachment 449380 View attachment 449381
That looks great! Thanks for taking the time to respond. I renovated my mother’s entire 1976 kitchen during Covid except for cabinet boxes. It was a learning curve for sure, but I got comfortable with the power tools. I had new doors made for her cabinets which were really odd sizes and built onsite (I think). I hated the painting part and used a sprayer, but it turned out pretty good. I installled the doors and drawers. My daughter can’t afford custom and we shopped around for stock and RTA. I think I can do better than what she can afford from a big box store or RTA. Quote was $7700 (40% off sale) from Cabinets to Go for 9 x 12 kitchen without extras she wants. I think IKEA was around $6k. Too much if I still have to assemble. I’m finishing up a vanity for her powder room before I start kitchen. Planning to build and install boxes first, then decide whether to make the doors. I have someone to make them if I decide not to. I know it’s a big challenge, but i have the time and space to do it. I have a contractor for electrical, plumbing & HVAC. He’s good about advice on site. My plywood supplier will cut down the sheets for me, so I don’t have to deal with full sheets. Is the Blum hardware worth the cost? This is her first house and she won’t be there long, so that’s a factor. It’s 30 years old and most of the units are not very updated. I’ve been watching videos, reading and researching tools, techniques, etc. for about 6 months. Building the workbench has helped too. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, but will have to be patient with myself. I looked at Cutlist and some other programs. I think it could save some money and avoid mistakes. Thanks again for your thoughts.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..
I was raised in Alabama

Do you have the room to build them and leave them till complete?

I’ll build base boxes with drawers & shelves, demo kitchen and install bases. After I’m satisfied with that, I’ll do the uppers and decide on make/buy doors. Planning to cut all the parts, then assemble. I have plenty of room.
War Eagle or RTR???
Bama…Started watching them serious around 2010…Amari Cooper fan..
Without some kind of layout it’s hard to help on measurements and design. How you want to deal with a corner, window, etc.

Biggest question is do you want to make a face frame and make a box to fit, or a box and a frame to fit the box.. This usually helps the process..
Attached is current working layout. Old layout is not very functional - DW in one corner of the U and weird butterfly double sink in opposite corner. I’ve found a few inches by changing door to laundry room and moving peninsula out a little.

Attachments

1 - 20 of 71 Posts
Top