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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just tried General Finishes Woodturner's Finish on a pepper mill I just made. I'm wondering if anyone else has used this; I'm interested to know how long I need to wait before rubbing it out.
 

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That's my FAVORITE FINISH, use it on everything, bowls, pens, pepper mills, etc , I apply 3 coats. Each coat takes about three minutes to dry ( fact). And then I buff it out with the micromesh pads and it looks like a shiny glass finish and it is super durable. Awesome awesome finish, waxes suck
 

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Pain in the A$$
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I am not familiar with this product. How well does the Wood Turners Finish hold up over time? My concern would be it wearing off a pen that is used alot, as well as any other item.

Also, does it seem to work well with all woods? I have several cocobolo (and other exotic wood) blanks that I wouldn't mind trying this with for some pens.

Thanks.
 

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That's all I use on pepper mills now. I apply about 5 or 6 coats. I have buffed in 2 hours after last coat. It my be OK to buff sooner but I have not tried.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am not familiar with this product. How well does the Wood Turners Finish hold up over time? My concern would be it wearing off a pen that is used alot, as well as any other item.

Also, does it seem to work well with all woods? I have several cocobolo (and other exotic wood) blanks that I wouldn't mind trying this with for some pens.

Thanks.
It's very new, so I'm not sure how much historical data is available. I'm fairly inexperienced, but I'm not sure I'd switch away from CA for pen finishes. While the Woodturners finish dries very quickly, it's not as fast as using CA and accelerator. CA also seems extremely hard and durable. For me CA is impractical for pepper mills, so the Woodturners Finish is great.

PS, the Woodturner's finish wasn't quite amber enough for me and still looked a little "sterile" right out of the bottle. I added two drops of Transtint amber and a drop of Honey Amber.
 

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Ok so woodturners finish has been out for over 3 years... And we had the owner of General Finishes come talk to us about multiple products. CA glue is a GLUE NOTHING MORE. It will break down, ya you get an awesome finish and I've proved to people that you get the same with woodturners. And why the heck would you try an achieve an oil base product with the angering with a WATER BASE. Yes on the bottle it says oil/water. But it's mostly water and that's why I love it. Ca glue will break down, chip..etc All this is fact. Woodturners finish prevents the oils of your fingers from ruining the sheen and breaking it down
 

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It's very new, so I'm not sure how much historical data is available. I'm fairly inexperienced, but I'm not sure I'd switch away from CA for pen finishes. While the Woodturners finish dries very quickly, it's not as fast as using CA and accelerator. CA also seems extremely hard and durable. For me CA is impractical for pepper mills, so the Woodturners Finish is great.

PS, the Woodturner's finish wasn't quite amber enough for me and still looked a little "sterile" right out of the bottle. I added two drops of Transtint amber and a drop of Honey Amber.
I am fairly new to turning as well. I have YET to achieve a high quality CA Finish on anything. I have tried many pens and key chains, but the same thing always happens. It cracks at the end of the wood adjacent the metal pieces and/or it shows lots of scrathes after some (not tons) use. I have been sold on the idea that CA finish is super strong and easy, but I would disagree with this. I realize that my inexperience is likely most of the problem, but I think there'd be a better way.

Ok so woodturners finish has been out for over 3 years... And we had the owner of General Finishes come talk to us about multiple products. CA glue is a GLUE NOTHING MORE. It will break down, ya you get an awesome finish and I've proved to people that you get the same with woodturners. And why the heck would you try an achieve an oil base product with the angering with a WATER BASE. Yes on the bottle it says oil/water. But it's mostly water and that's why I love it. Ca glue will break down, chip..etc All this is fact. Woodturners finish prevents the oils of your fingers from ruining the sheen and breaking it down
I am intersted in giving this finish a try. I also read some basic guidance above. Would anyone care to do a "Idiot-Proof" write up with specifics (sandind material, grit, exact # of recommended aplications, when to sand, etc) to help this self-proclaimed "Idiot-Proof Tester" out? It would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I am intersted in giving this finish a try. I also read some basic guidance above. Would anyone care to do a "Idiot-Proof" write up with specifics (sandind material, grit, exact # of recommended aplications, when to sand, etc) to help this self-proclaimed "Idiot-Proof Tester" out? It would be greatly appreciated.
+1 same here!!
 

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I have used General Finishes Enduro-Var water based urethane on several projects and really like it. Is the Wood Turners finish significantly different?
 

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mike65072 said:
I have used General Finishes Enduro-Var water based urethane on several projects and really like it. Is the Wood Turners finish significantly different?
No, it's not the same. The woodturners finish is thin as water.
Tom
 

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Ibangwood said:
I absolutely will do that for ya, later tonight tho, tou will like
On be half of all the greenhorns, I say thank you!!!

I'm looking forward to your write up. I found a local GF dealer, so I will see if they have this finish on Friday when I get into town.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'd be interested to know how folks are applying Woodturners Finish. I've tried a folded paper towel, a sponge, a foam brush, spray and returned to using the paper towel. It's a little streaky on the first couple of coats; I don't know if that's because the wood is absorbing the finish very quickly or because it takes a few applications to get the paper towel well saturated. Spraying worked ok; I used a Preval sprayer. I over applied and then the piece was slinging finish and the finish tended to collect at the high points. Spraying also seemed to waste finish, so between that and my bad technique, I returned to the paper towel. I haven't tried sanding with micro mesh yet; my last project didn't seem to need it, but wondering what y'all are using for lubricant. I've always been shy about using water as a sanding lubricant when wet sanding a water based finish.
 

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Quickstep said:
I'd be interested to know how folks are applying Woodturners Finish. I've tried a folded paper towel, a sponge, a foam brush, spray and returned to using the paper towel. It's a little streaky on the first couple of coats; I don't know if that's because the wood is absorbing the finish very quickly or because it takes a few applications to get the paper towel well saturated. Spraying worked ok; I used a Preval sprayer. I over applied and then the piece was slinging finish and the finish tended to collect at the high points. Spraying also seemed to waste finish, so between that and my bad technique, I returned to the paper towel. I haven't tried sanding with micro mesh yet; my last project didn't seem to need it, but wondering what y'all are using for lubricant. I've always been shy about using water as a sanding lubricant when wet sanding a water based finish.
I've used paper towels and clean cotton rags to apply. I don't seen to have problems with streaking. Have not tried the foam brush. As stated earlier I apply 5 or 6 coats. The first couple of coats dry quickly. I usually wait 5 or more minutes to apply after the first 2 or 3 coats.
Tom
 

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I used it on a bowl this week. Applied several coats of sanding sealer and then threw on a coat of GWTF and it needed no sanding, very smooth over the sanding sealer. I was watching one of the GWTF videos on utube and the instructor suggested using a pantyhose with a folder paper towel inside as an applicator. It worked great and left no stroke marks like a brush does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just finished a pepper mill using General Woodturner's finish. I applied 5 or so coats, "sanding" between coats with gray synthetic steel wool. The last two coats were applied with no sanding in-between and looked great right off the lathe. BUT, I couldn't leave well enough alone, so after a couple of days to fully cure, I put it back on the lathe and applied a coat of Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish and boy does it look nice. It leaves a nice shine and knocks of just enough gloss to make the thing look like a museum piece.
 
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