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Garage Workbenches & Shelving, and a Table Saw Rennovation

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I'm brand new here, as I just joined and this is my first post. I'm still getting my tools together to start this project, but I thought I'd share it get some feedback and advice. This post is about both my project and the table saw I purchased for it.

So... hello all! :)

Some Background
I'm a DIY guy and so was my father. I've learned quite a bit from him over the years. He passed away in 2015, so I inherited all of his tools, which includes quite a bit of word-working tools. Table saw, circular saw, chop saw, grinder, nail gun, 33 gallon air compressor, levels and squares, assorted power tools, and a ton of hand tons. I never bothered doing anything with all of these tools until my mother needed to move into a personal care home in 2019. I needed to rent out the home, so from 2019 to March of this year I spent a lot of time preparing for that by dismantling everything in their garage, including old hand-built cabinets, workbenches, and tons of pegboard. I dumped all of his tools into storage bins that line my own deep, 2-car garage and a separate rented storage unit. Now I'm designing and planning to build wrap around work benches and storage shelving to accommodate this influx of tools.

The state of my garage right now is quite messy, but at least somewhat organized. The wife wants to dump all of our seasonal decorations in here, so some storage bins of decorations are mixed in with the bins and bins of tools and supplies from my Dad. This was after spending a weekend cleaning to prepare for this project:

Bicycle Tire Wheel Shelf Building


I've done minor woodworking before, but never for the enjoyment of it. I've cut plenty of boards, assembled many projects, and sanded, stained, and finished more times than I can remember. From recent hand rails to meet code to custom mobile carts to simple cabinets and furniture. I've always done woodworking as a necessity to serve a purpose, and as such I merged my rather amateurish skill with attention to detail to make things that served their purpose and were fairly decent. So I've only really done butt joints for projects, and my level of fancy is 45 degree cuts to make the joints flush with some decent sanding and finishing. If you spent the time reading this, at least you know where I'm coming from in my approach to this project.

If you have any advice to offer for both this project and my pursuits mentioned within this post, I'm all ears (or in this case on a forum, all eyes). I welcome it, especially constructive criticism. I'm no woodworking pro, so I'm trying to be sponge to soak up all the helpful feedback and tips I can. However, feel free to use woodworking jargon and technical names, as I am familiar with most of it and can easily search for the rest.

Project
I'm an IT guy and much more handy with computers and software than I am with woodworking tools, so of course I used CAD software to layout my project. I'm trying to keep the workbenches simple, all butt joints, with a good helping of overbuilding to make up for my limited skills. I want to make these workbenches and storage shelving a permanent addition to my garage, but not to the level of using wood glue or removing drywall.

On that note, my garage is finished with drywall and baseboards, and all of that is painted. It's an attached garage with an insulated garage door, so temperature and humidity swings aren't that bad. I will most likely be cutting the baseboards down to make my project completely flush with the drywall, as I plan to use 8' 2x4s along it for stability and mounting pegboards, as shown in my rendering:

Chair Interior design Flooring Floor Wood


This isn't my latest version, so I did make some changes since I saved this image. In a follow up post I'll update with new images of the design. Notes:
  • The 45 degree support wedges are really supposed to be 2x4s cut with 45 degree ends for support of the shelves. My CAD program doesn't support 45 degree cut studs as a 3D object, but it did support triangles to represent that
  • A 2x4 running along the ceiling, parallel to the middle shelf. I discovered my ceiling's studs run perpendicular to that shelf, so attaching that support to multiple studs would be ideal.
  • The front portions of the front legs of workbenches will be cut down to 2x2s to take up less space. The sides of these legs will still be 2x4s.
  • The right side bench below the open shelves is 30" deep, but in my new design it's 40" deep and slightly taller so that I can roll my new table saw under it for storage.
  • There's about 21 of the vertical 8' 2x4s that run along the walls. You can see them on the right side, but they're mostly covered by peg board everywhere else.
  • If I get a bit more serious with woodworking in the future, I can always build a workbench to place in the middle of that area complete with dog/holdfast holes. For now, I'll do all of my woodworking from these static workbenches or a pre-made portable work bench. I may decide to add a 2x4 along the outside edge of one of the workbenches and mount a vice when I'm done.
Table Saw
I sold my Dad's portable Hitachi table saw a couple years ago to help get rid of things. I could have kept it, but I knew that if I wanted to use a table saw again, I wanted a contractor saw instead. And that's what I did last weekend: found a used table saw that was exactly what I wanted. The ubiquitous Craftsman 10" table saw. An 86 year-old gentlemen was selling it since he could no longer use it. He claims to have only used it a few times and always stored it in his garage. From its condition I believe him. He was asking $225 but I talked him down to $175 after some haggling.

So I found this Emerson-built 113 with a full cast iron top and skeletal cast-iron wings in my local area. It's a 113.298762 model from 1993 in amazing condition with only surface rust on the cast iron and iron nuts & bolts. He even had some spare (though used) 30T and 40T ripping blades included, along with the original manual. This was back when manuals were essential, lol! I also found it online in PDF format, but it was still so nice to have a physical copy around. No scratches on the top either! Heck, even the red-painted metal throat plate is almost like new. The owner had made and installed these big wooden wheels on it, which I quickly removed and let him keep... I did tease him a bit about these Trojan Horse wheels.

Original ad photos from seller:

Automotive tire Wheel Asphalt Hood Line

Automotive tire Gas Auto part Cooking Automotive wheel system

Musical instrument accessory Reel Camera accessory Audio equipment Gramophone record


I'm not going to upgrade anything major on it yet. In the future I might add a fixed splitter (no room for a riving knife) and a new fence. I'm completely tearing down the table saw to clean everything and replace a couple parts before reassembling it. The motor is in great condition and it runs, although not as smooth as I'd like. I bought new bearings for the arbor, new cast iron pulleys/sheaves (which term should I use?) instead of the OEM cast aluminum ones, a new link-style V belt, and of course a brand new saw blade. I got l lowering casters and plan to build a simple wheeled base for it that I can raise up on the wheels to move around. I also bought a GrabberPro push block to use with it when I'm all done.

I soaked all of the metal hardware in Apple Cider Vinegar for at least 24 hours, with some of it soaking for 3 days. Seems to have removed all of the surface rust on the iron parts so far. I only needed to wipe them clean with a paper towel... no scrubbing required. I still have another batch I just starting soaking yesterday. Then I store them in plastic containers where I soak them in WD-40.


Wood Cosmetics Font Gas Office supplies

Automotive tire Blue Motor vehicle Bumper Gas


Taking everything apart:

Wood Flooring Vehicle Automotive design Engineering


I also used WD-40 to clean the table top. A few 3M finishing pads (almost the same as a Scotch-Brite pad) and a lot of elbow grease removed all of the surface rust and most of the stains. The top is looking great! I let WD-40 soak into the top over night after the initial scrubbing, then cleaned it all off. Now my finger just glides along it. That work was very satisfying.

Before, with a single pass of cleaning on the right side of the top (left side in photo):
Wood Rectangle Road surface Automotive exterior Asphalt


I might spend a little more time cleaning the corners of the miter channels, but here's the result so far:
Light Automotive design Output device Bumper Wood


Question: the motor mount has an adjustable rail on the right side of it, near the belt. However, when I got it the motor was slanted a bit, ie: not parallel with the table. Is this normal, or is this adjustable when I reassemble it? Perhaps I might be able to adjust this with the motor mount that has two shafts connecting it to the saw cradle? I guess I can also add another bracket on the left side of the motor if adjustments don't help.

Future Projects
Eventually my next big projects are for the backyard. A new, bigger shed to replace my existing plastic shed, and also a renovation of our existing 30'x11' raised garden. The wife and I skipped gardening this year due to other life events, so this will in my mental queue in the next year or two.
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I completed most of the cart on Saturday. It turned out pretty well. And although I drilled ahead of all of my screws, I had one small split when screwing parallel to the grain. That was due to a weak spot in the wood next to a knot, so I resolved it by drilling and putting a screw perpendicular to the split.

I cut down two of my spare 8 foot 2x4s leftover from when I made sliders to help move large containers up/down stairs. These had a few steel plate claw marks and nail/screw holes, but generally in decent shape...

Saw Mitre saws Miter saw Drill Tripod




My spare 6' piece of plywood was next, leftover from extra garage shelving that I took apart years ago. My fence was too high for the circular saw, so I just used a long straight edge...

Wood Table Tool Gas Outdoor furniture




Cuts were acceptable for that miter saw with an old blade and circular saw with an old blade that had low tooth count. Very mild burning at the grain, but not too much. I'll be sanding the edges of everything any ways...

Table Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Wood stain




For the screws to attach each 2x4, I used up various random types/sizes from my spare and recycled parts. It's quite a hodgepodge of different threads, alloys, etc...

Wood Composite material Font Metal Screw




When I mounted the plywood, I had to dig into one my assortments of new screws. Cheaper zinc plated was fine for this...

Hood Automotive tire Rectangle Wood Automotive exterior




I over-countersunk all of the screws that were entered from the bottom, as I'll be filling those holes with wood filler. I don't want any exposed metal of various, unknown alloys exposed. The cart will be a permanent structure, and the plywood shelf is the only easily replaced component.

All assembled, aside from the casters and levelers, and with the legs positioned...

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Flooring




The casters came we really cheap screws that I wouldn't trust to hold up over time. I stripped the heads of two out of three with my driver, and that was after pre-drilling screw holes in soft wood. It was so bad that I had to back out the screws with a pair of vice grip pliers. So I'll need to go buy some quality stainless steel screws to replace them. But here's what they'll look like at each corner (and yes the caster clears the leveler when spun around 360 degrees):

Wood Machine tool Workbench Hardwood Machine




I'll be cutting down the edges of the outside 2x4s to match the leg angle, probably with a jig saw. Then I'll hand plane and sand the rest of it.

Once that's all done, do you think I should stain/seal or paint it?
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Looks nice!

I don't think I've read all the posts in this thread, so hopefully I'm not repeating something.

Those Craftsman legs/stands really twisted and bounced around when they were raised up with the casters Sears sold. It made it tough to move the tool around even on a fairly smooth floor (the same basic stands were sold for RASs, jointers, etc.). The good side was the rubber feet that touched the floor when the wheels were retracted held the legs pretty steady when you were working. We tied all of the legs together with 1x3s about 8" up from the bottom which made moving the tools much easier. I think it also improved the strength of the legs when they were down on the rubber feet. I don't think you will have a problem with your design, but you might want to think about removing the rubber feet/bolt if you haven't already (I can't tell from the pictures) and bolt the bottom of the legs to your cart.

You probably thought of this: your cart is going to fill up with saw dust. When we first added the supports to ours, we also had a plywood bottom. We thought it would be a good place to store things (miter gauge, wrenches, etc.). We never though of the saw dust coming down from the saw. Eventually we removed it and just left the 1x3s between the legs. I guess it was a matter of whether or not we wanted the saw dust on the floor or the "shelf" and we picked the floor.
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Looks nice!
Thanks. :)

I don't think I've read all the posts in this thread, so hopefully I'm not repeating something.

Those Craftsman legs/stands really twisted and bounced around when they were raised up with the casters Sears sold. It made it tough to move the tool around even on a fairly smooth floor (the same basic stands were sold for RASs, jointers, etc.). The good side was the rubber feet that touched the floor when the wheels were retracted held the legs pretty steady when you were working. We tied all of the legs together with 1x3s about 8" up from the bottom which made moving the tools much easier. I think it also improved the strength of the legs when they were down on the rubber feet. I don't think you will have a problem with your design, but you might want to think about removing the rubber feet/bolt if you haven't already (I can't tell from the pictures) and bolt the bottom of the legs to your cart.
Yup, they're gone. The seller only had three of them anyways, and I wasn't interested in trying to track down a set of them online since I wanted it mounted on a cart. Also, I have to use those holes to mount the legs to the stand with one bolt in each leg/corner.

You probably thought of this: your cart is going to fill up with saw dust. When we first added the supports to ours, we also had a plywood bottom. We thought it would be a good place to store things (miter gauge, wrenches, etc.). We never though of the saw dust coming down from the saw. Eventually we removed it and just left the 1x3s between the legs. I guess it was a matter of whether or not we wanted the saw dust on the floor or the "shelf" and we picked the floor.
Indeed, that's part of the plan. I expect to use that cart as both sawdust collection and a place to throw cut off scraps. :)

I originally explored the idea of sawdust collection, but sadly for this model the only feasible way would be to seal off the cabinet and add a port to attach to a shop vacuum. And that leaves the parts inside susceptible to saw dust build up over time. So I decided to leave it in its original, open configuration, and just use an air compressor to clean it out once in a while.
So I decided to leave it in its original, open configuration, and just use an air compressor to clean it out once in a while.
Pretty much what I do. I saw a picture years ago where the person put plywood partly up the legs to make it like a bin to catch as much sawdust as possible. He had a door he would open to suck out the sawdust with a shop vac.
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Once that's all done, do you think I should stain/seal or paint it?
I leave my shop projects bare wood, hasn't been a problem in my garage-shop that is big temp and humidity changes.

And [email protected], when I looked at your CAD plans I thought you were replacing the saw's legs, that's why I asked if you were using 2x2s for them.
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I leave my shop projects bare wood, hasn't been a problem in my garage-shop that is big temp and humidity changes.
Thanks. Yeah, my current workbench and shelving is just bare wood in the garage. It was built by the previous owner of my house, so I'd guess that it's about a decade old and still fine. I did modify it quite a bit over the years. It makes a big difference having a finished, attached garage. Even if it's not temperature/humidity controlled, it still gets protected from big temperature swings since it's attached.

I'm leaning to just stain and finish since that will give it a bit of protection. And I'm a little reluctant to paint soft wood since any ding or chip will look bad. Yet I'm still open to suggestions.

And [email protected], when I looked at your CAD plans I thought you were replacing the saw's legs, that's why I asked if you were using 2x2s for them.
Haha! No worries, I was wondering why you mentioned that. Now it makes sense. ;)
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I'm was able to get back to these projects a little last weekend. They have been put on delay for a while thanks to other weekend work.

In getting some of my dad's old tools out of storage bins to do the power sanding, I have two orbital sanders (not sure why he had two?) and one detail sander for corners...
Bag Personal protective equipment Glove Luggage and bags Electric blue





I hand planed the top a bit to line up joins, then sanded everything. It looks like the miter saw did not burn the wood, as sanding did not remove it. It's just the grain in this wood is very dark...
Table Furniture Wood Outdoor furniture Plant





I opted to stain instead of paint it. I used some leftover Minwax oil-based Provincial stain to apply a few coats for its darkest effect. I wanted it dark so that I can easily see sawdust...
Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Building Tints and shades
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Probably had each sander set up with a different grit for course and find sanding.

Ken
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Over the past couple of weekends I had a little time here and there to work on the table saw. One of the last steps before reassembling it was to clean and polish most of the little hardware parts, including the bolts, washers, spacers, and lift & tilt screws. And do that quickly, I needed to get my Dad's old Delta 8" bench-top grinder cleaned up and working well. I also bought a few wire brush and polishing wheels.

Condition of the grinder right out of storage with many years of dust, dirt, and cigarette smoke (my Mother smoked in the garage)...

Automotive tire Automotive design Shelf Gas Engineering


It seems to be a ~2001 or later model...

Product Automotive tire Kitchen utensil Gas Audio equipment




I might add a dimmer knob to it later so that I can control the speed. The grinder states 120 volts at 3.0 amps, so it should draw 360 watts (120V x 3A). I can get a simple light dimmer that's rated for 600W which should be good even for spike wattage right when you power it on. If I move the power switch and make my own plate for the controls, I should have enough room inside the base for both. But that's a future project.

In the process of cleaning this grinder, I had to take off the safety covers. And to do that I needed to remove both flanges, but the problem is that the inside flanges have a groove where they rest and can't easily be pulled off the auger. I'm not sure if those groves are from wear and tear or by design. Either way, I had to use one of my gear pullers to remove it. I wasn't worried about bending it since it only needed a little bit of force...

Saw Abrasive saw Automotive tire Mitre saws Concrete saw




Removing the base revealed what looks like a repair job done on it in the past. Note the orange wire nut which isn't standard. And the wires have been vibrating again the base plate, making wear marks...

Wood Hardwood Technology Flooring Machine




The rubber feet aren't too bad, but still I soaked the feet in ArmorAll to keep them from cracking or drying out more...

Toy Kitchen utensil Gas Rim Automotive wheel system




Base of the grinder all cleaned up, so now on to the lamp...

Fluid Liquid Automotive tire Gas Plastic bottle




I noticed that the plastic wire loom on the lamp is nasty, even after cleaning. It was caked with cigarette smoke, so I'm replacing it with a nice silver-gray braid that should fit...

Electrical wiring Gas Cable Auto part Motor vehicle




It's a tight fit, but I did get it installed, and will melt the ends to keep it from fraying...

Saw Abrasive saw Table Creative arts Miter saw




Bulb socket for the lamp is rated for 40W, but that's 40W of electricity and heat from an incandescent bulb. I'm putting in a 6W or 12W LED bulb later...

Microphone Rim Audio equipment Auto part Gas





Putting the lamp back together, and redoing the wiring connections...

Wood Electrical wiring Gas Audio equipment Wire



(continued...)
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Since this grinder can generate a lot of vibrations, I'm wrapping the connections in weather stripping. That should also help keep the wires from resting on the base directly. I placed a piece of flat sticky foam on the bottom plate as well, from 9x6" sheets I cut to size (not shown)...

Wood Floor Flooring Electrical wiring Cable




Grinder is running and lamp is working well with a 6 watt LED bulb...

Fluid Kitchen appliance Gas Machine Liquid




I think the silver-gray braid looks better than the original black plastic loom...

Gas Machine Plastic bottle Engineering Telephone




Grinder is now thoroughly cleaned and reassembled with a wire brush and polishing wheel. I would normally use a polish wheel spindle, but that Amazon order hasn't arrived yet. Fortunately if I keep the flanges tight enough and don't apply too much pressure while polishing, the wheel doesn't slip.

Automotive tire Handheld power drill Pneumatic tool Shelf Gas




-----------------> Back to the table saw restoration! :D

Wire brush work on the tilt screw to take off the metal on the surface that oxidized from its vinegar bath...

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Wood Bumper




I then polished all of the larger hardware parts, including all of the bolts. I used a fairly course polish compound stick (it's a reddish-brown color), as I'm doing this for functionality more than anything else. It was messy, so I performed this at the edge of my garage for easy cleanup. The wheel and grinder after a lot of polishing work...

Wood Saw Tool Bumper Machine tool





These polished parts came out pretty good and should be a little more resistant to rust and corrosion now. The long, skinny motor mount bolt on the left will need to go back to wire-brushing again since it has some pitting, but others fared well. I didn't take a photo of all of the hardware, just a sampling to show the difference...

Metalworking hand tool Font Gas Hand tool Tool




Final comparison of the lift screw through the stages of restoration...

Office supplies Writing implement Line Ball pen Pen
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Excellent results, good job on this!
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Wow - I don't think I've ever seen anyone go that far in restoring or cleaning up a bench motor like that.
Well done young feller, well done indeed. All of your projects are coming alone quite nicely.
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It's been a couple months since I've been able to work on these projects, let alone update here. Life's priorities have a way of trumping our hobbies. ;) Sorry it took so long to update this thread.

A month ago I completed the cart's assembly of the retractable casters and leveling feet. And then last weekend I disassembled the table saw's steel legs/base in preparation to clean and paint. I'll include more photos of the cart later, but for now I'll share my painting of the legs/base.

I matched the paint color with the help of a Napa store in the next town, as my local Napa didn't paint match. They matched the paint very well and filled up two spray cans for me, along with some extra in small cans to touchup any scratches with a brush in the future. It turned out pretty well for a rattle can paint job!

The original model and serial number tag was mounted rather haphazardly. Since I was repainting, I decided now's the time to remove it and then mount it properly after it's painted...

Font Automotive design Electric blue Personal luxury car Motor vehicle




I expected it to be more difficult to remove, but it came off fairly well with no creases or damage to the foil label:

Rectangle Bumper Gadget Material property Hood




Model/serial label area prepped:

Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Rectangle Communication Device Gas



Hood Output device Peripheral Table Automotive design




Only the table legs had some areas of rust, which I treated with scouring/finishing pads and WD40. But the rest of the surface that was rust free I deep cleaned with scouring/finishing pads and window cleaner, which only took up a little bit of gray from the painted surfaces. That prepped it really well. Suds from scouring the surface:

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas



Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Wall





I left the large Sears/Craftsman metal label in place and just taped it up before painting. I also removed the angle guide:

Flooring Grass Sports equipment Audio equipment Wood




My paint-matched supplies...

Tin Drinkware Fluid Paint Cylinder
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Parts ready for painting...

Wood Triangle Rectangle Gas Font


Wood Rectangle Floor Bumper Automotive exterior




The painting is done!...

Gadget Audio equipment Computer hardware Electronic instrument Gas




Time to remove the painter's masking tape...

Automotive design Gas Font Machine Audio equipment




The base pieces and legs turned out really well too!

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Machine


Wood Gas Automotive exterior Composite material Auto part




Now I can start reassembling my refurbished table saw. I should have a lot of free time during my two weeks off from work around Christmas. :)
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@cipher
based on the tag it is 1990s machine. printing is dots. it is not the blue gray of the old years. late 60s to mid 90s
from my own travels. from the tag it is 93 for a while the next 3 number was the day number.
Rectangle Font Wood Signage Building material


still it makes a good looking saw

good luck
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@cipher
based on the tag it is 1990s machine. printing is dots. it is not the blue gray of the old years. late 60s to mid 90s
from my own travels. from the tag it is 93 for a while the next 3 number was the day number.
View attachment 445191

still it makes a good looking saw

good luck
@Biotec, thanks for confirming that. From the looks of the saw, I did think it was a 93, but wasn't 100% positive. Now you've confirmed that for me. Looks like it was built on January 20th of 1993 if those are indeed days into the year?
@cipher
january is the only month that the first 30 days work. like day 040 is February 09.
365 day calendar or weeks numbers
some companies' use week numbers
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@Biotec, thanks. You explained it well before, as that's what I was thinking (1-365 with 364 for leap year). :)
also the older blue gray was from Krylon Industrial Tough Coat 03290 Machinery Blue Gray Gloss Acrylic Enamel Paint - 16 oz Aerosol Can - 12 oz Net Weight - 90329 can NOT be found.
the color was dead on. at least to my old eyes.

can you share the paint number that Nappa used
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