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Discussion Starter #1
Kinda wondered if someone had same issue as mine. I assembled it yesterday and found that bottom wheel has to be shimmed for 6mm. Is it Ok or too much? I have spoken with Grizzly Technical support today. Althoung he said everything is Ok. I think he was not 100% sure. Also he adviced me that I might need to replace 3/4 bolt by 1'' one since I need to shim such distance.
 

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I have a G0555P that is basically the same saw. What makes you think the bottom wheel is off?

I had a problem keeping the blade aligned with the center line of the top tire and had to replace the tilt adjuster's wing nut with a regular nut because the wings would not let me adjust it enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I checked according to the manual :). Bottom wheel is 6mm far while it is parrallel and coplar with top wheel. Also when the blade is set to center on top wheel it is on closest end of rubber on bottom wheel. The blade stays on this position after several rotations or turning the saw on. After I added whashers to bottom wheel the blade is on center of both wheels. But I'm wondered if it's ok to shim 6mm. Kinda safety concern :)
 

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As long as you torque everything correctly, and check it at least once before every use, I think you'll be fine.

I'd be concerned with things coming loose after a few uses.
 

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where's my table saw?
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this may help

 

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Doesn't Snodgrass in his video basically say don't worry about co-planar? Worry about setting it up the way he says and co-planar isn't part of the equation, or so that's the impression I got. I am, however, not always the brightest of bulbs..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I watched the video dozen times already. And there is a part about coplanar at the end of the movie. Also the manual says that the saw has optimal perfomance when the weels are parallel and coplanar. This is why I thought it's still important.
 

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I have a 555LX. I havnt had any issues with it at all.
 

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I watched the video dozen times already. And there is a part about coplanar at the end of the movie. Also the manual says that the saw has optimal perfomance when the weels are parallel and coplanar. This is why I thought it's still important.
Are you referring to the Snodgrass video? That one he speaks a fair bit on co-planar and it's at the beginning. Not aware of him saying anything at the end about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Are you referring to the Snodgrass video? That one he speaks a fair bit on co-planar and it's at the beginning. Not aware of him saying anything at the end about it.
Starting on 3:52 he explains about proper wheel alignment and how to check it. Co-planar is when wheels are parallel and set to be on same geometric plane. This is my understanding :) But it's a bit too deep details already.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ha, I think I found an answer for my concern on this video -
Guy said that wheels should not be perfectly co-planar and bottom wheel is always off to keep a blade stable on both wheels. Centered blade position is really important on top wheel only. This is how I understood him :)

P.S. I was referring to Grizzly HowTo video.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Just to close the loop. Apparently co-planar has its role. I removed whashers and put bottm wheel to original position. I re-did all adjusments - blade tracking and bearings. The saw did NOT pass the nickel-test. Apparently it has more vibration if wheels are not co-planar. I reinstalled washers back. Now it pass the test. I decided to stick with co-planar wheels.

P.S. looks like the saw was not properly adjusted and tested on manufacture. I had to torque 4 nuts and fix a play on top bearings.
 

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You must have been right about it not being properly built to begin with. Like I said, the only problem I ever had with mine was the wing nut not letting me adjust the blade so it would ride in the center of the top wheel. It has always been rock steady though, even sitting on the wheels they sell for it.
 
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