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Has anyone had a problem with this blade? I have one that is new and when ripping some 1-1/2" maple I get burn marks. My saw is aligned properly and when I put my Freud 50 tooth combo on I get no burn. Any suggestions?
 

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Sawdust Creator
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1.5 inch maple is awfully hard to rip without a proper rip blade. I'd buy a rip blade...
 

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Old Methane Gas Cloud
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3,500 Posts
It's simple . . .

It is almost correct to say that thin kerf blades don't work in table saws. Not really, but now that I have your attention I can probably explain the problem.

When you aligned your splitter / riving knife / blade guard it was aligned with the nut side of the blade. Now you have changed the physical location of the nut side of the blade by installing a thin kerf blade or just a different blade.

The splitter when aligned with a full kerf blade it is 1/32" offset toward the fence (assumes left tilt) and it is forcing the stock into the fence when a thin kerf blade is installed.

When a splitter / riving knife is aligned, it must be aligned with the arbor flange of the table saw. If the splitter / riving knife is aligned with the nut side of the blade, THIS ALIGNMENT IS ONLY VALID FOR THAT PARTICULAR BLADE.

I know that a lot of you don't want to hear this but it is life in the big city.
 

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The same characteristic that gives the Fusion it's highly polished edges on cuts within it's intended range, can also increase the chance of burning. The Fusion not only has very tight side clearances, which can increase burning, it also has a dual side grind that further increases that chance. In a nutshell, 6/4" hard maple is too thick for that blade IMO. A typical 50T combo blade will likely leave more swirl marks, but it's more generous side clearance is less likely to burn.
 
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