[Sleeper]

My Freud D1024X Diablo is starting to burn the wood a little so I guess that means time for a new blade. Plus its been making weird noises. I don’t know when I bought it but it doesn’t seen like that long ago.

Anyway I was comparing prices and I noticed an industrial version that’s not red and I wonder if the extra money is worth it for a DIY guy.

I only rip on the weekends and I used to change blades when cutting OSB or used lumber, but I’ve been getting lazy and not sure if that’s what’s eating up my blade or maybe something wrong with the saw although I can't see anything.

I was thinking of going to HD and buy a blade today because I'm going to be ripping 1/2" strips out of 3/4" Red Oak and I don't want any burn marks.

Anyway I will probably just buy another Freud D1024X for now, but I'm thinking of ordering the better blade for the next time. What do you think?

 

[d_slat]

Have you tried cleaning the blade? If not that`s where I`d start.

 

[Sleeper]

Have you tried cleaning the blade? If not that`s where I`d start.

No and I know I should be doing that. :blush:
Actually I don't now if I have ever cleaned this blade and I did cut up a lot of rigid foam insulation

 

[woodnthings]

clean that one and get a spare

Use the new one for your prized cuts and the older one for less important stuff. I always keep a spare on hand of each blade I have because you never know what may happen.

I have used Blade Cleaner from Shop Smith, Easy Off or other oven cleaners, Simple Green, Brake Cleaner, Simple Green Pro, the purple colored stuff. All seem to work OK. You need a cookie sheet or round pan to soak in it.

BTW I have hundreds of ripping feet on a Freud DX1040 with no issues, and it still cuts great.

You may have bumped your fence out of whack I'd check that also... it should be parallel to the miter slot when locked!

 

[Sleeper]

I have used Blade Cleaner from Shop Smith, Easy Off or other oven cleaners, Simple Green, Brake Cleaner, Simple Green Pro, the purple colored stuff. All seem to work OK. You need a cookie sheet or round pan to soak in it.

Wow "Brake Cleaner"! I've never heard of that, but I got a spray can of that stuff just waiting to be used. :laughing:

I have a lot of things I wanted to do today, but I guess I really need to clean all my blade today especially my miter saw, I'm embarrassed to even show that.

 

[d_slat]

I`ve also used dish soap and hot water before.

 

[Sleeper]

Well, I just cleaned my Freud D1024X and my Dewalt Miter saw blades with brake cleaner and I forgot how powerful that stuff is. It took all the paint off of the Dewalt and I don’t even know what it was anymore. The Freud printed label came off but not the red paint. :huh:

The STP brake cleaner did not do such a good job on the wood pitch however and I had to use a wire brush which was pretty hazardous.

I got splattered all over my face and arms from the brush. I had rubber gloves on, but that didn’t help much with the splatter. If I ever do this again, I will wear full coveralls and full facemask along with the gloves. Oh and maybe a fan or respirator as well.:yes:

Probably the best thing is to not use the stuff again.

 

[sawdustfactory]

I like to use the citrus cleaners, it seems to dissolve the pitch pretty easy. Also, those freud blades can be resharpened if need be.

 

[Sleeper]

I like to use the citrus cleaners, it seems to dissolve the pitch pretty easy. Also, those freud blades can be resharpened if need be.

I don't know anybody around here that does sharpening. I wish I did because I have 6 hand saws beside 10" dia blades that I would love to have sharpened.

Anyway I just ripped eight 6' pieces of oak with the clean blade and it still doesn't look good, but instead of wasting it I'm going to run them all through the planer and bring them down to 3/8" instead of the planed 1/2". I guess Plan B :smile:

 

[knotscott]

Definitely clean it and see if you still think you need a new one. I'd recommend keeping your blades clean in the future....they'll cut better and stay sharp longer when kept clean. The pitch causes excess heat, which burns the wood, but also overheats the carbide, which shortens the edge life.

The D1024X has the same geometry as the Industrial LU87, but has an ATB grind vs a flat top grind (FTG). The LU87 also has thicker carbide for more resharpenings. Most of the better 24T rippers are going to have pretty similar performance.....LU87, DW7124PT, CMT 202.010.24, Irwin Marples, Infinity 010-124, Hitachi 311128, Tenryu Amana Tool MD10-240TB, or Amana Mamba MA10024.

You can send blades out for sharpening....more than one will maximize s/h costs. Dynamic Saw, Ridge Carbide, Forrest, Scott Whiting....all very reputable.

p.s.: Raising the blade a little higher might help reduce burning too.