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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need opinions. Please.

I'm putting up a floating shelf, hopefully with French cleats screwed into wood studs. The shelf will be installed to hold a Centre speaker and 2 satellite L & R speakers. Total weight will be around 25 lbs max. I'm sure a cleat would hold the weight BUT the shelf needs to be 13 inches deep. Will this act as too much of a lever for the cleat to handle? The shelf will be 62 inches along the wall.

Any suggestions? Ideas? Alternatives?
 

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Need opinions. Please.

I'm putting up a floating shelf, hopefully with French cleats screwed into wood studs. The shelf will be installed to hold a Centre speaker and 2 satellite L & R speakers. Total weight will be around 25 lbs max. I'm sure a cleat would hold the weight BUT the shelf needs to be 13 inches deep. Will this act as too much of a lever for the cleat to handle? The shelf will be 62 inches along the wall.

Any suggestions? Ideas? Alternatives?
You said the shelf is 13" deep and 62" long. How thick is it?




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I did floating shelves for my cats by making a U shaped frame with 2x2 then covered the top and bottom with 1/4 ply basically made a three sided hollow shelf, covered with carpet. Then made another U shape frame with 2x2 that would slide into the open side of the shelf, the legs will need to be 1 1/2 inch shorter then the first frame. 1/4 x 3 inch lag the frame to the wall into the studs then slide the shelf onto it, a few sheet rock screws into the side of the shelf through both frame rails to keep it from sliding off. Holds my cats no problems shelf come out from the wall about 14 inch or so...maybe for a long run like that a few more leg rails and lag into stud every 16 inchs. I can post you a pic if you like...
 

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I built a shelf 18" deep and 34" long for about 70# of stereo components.
The top is 3/4" thick plywood. On top of that is loose 3/4" ply loose shelf, that allows tilting the loose shelf out, with the components, for cable attachment. Shelf and components, weigh around 90#
The back is 3/4" SYP 6" wide. And the shelf at the front is 2 1/2" Thick.

I used 2, 3/8 x 3 1/2" lag bolts, into studs. It's rock solid.
I think a boxed, 4" thick shelf, on a french cleat, that was lagged to the studs would hold a lot of weight.
 

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torsion box shelf screwed to cleat affixed to framing within the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A lot to consider. Thanks for the info.

Cabinetman: I was hoping to get away with 1 1/2 inches thick, but I'm now thinking this won't be thick enough for downward weight distribution. Is this correct?

Pirate: I'm interested. But what exactly do you mean when you say "on top of that is loose 3/4 inch ply". I can't picture it in my head.
 

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A lot to consider. Thanks for the info.
Pirate: I'm interested. But what exactly do you mean when you say "on top of that is loose 3/4 inch ply". I can't picture it in my head.
On top of the shelf, I have a piece of 3/4" ply, edged with SYP. It is the same size as the shelf top. The stereo components sit on it.
It's not attached to the shelf, which allows me turn the loose shelf, with components, in order to get access to the wire connections on the back.
It is on a wall above the tv, which makes connecting wires hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thought of that. But the client doesn't want it permanent.

This is what I ended up doing. I went to Ikea and bought one of their LACK floating shelves and used their system. Sort of the same idea as threaded rod but rather metal tubes welded to a plate the length of the shelf. For $29 I have a way to hang a shelf I can construct with the materials I like. And with the tubing on the Ikea hanger being hollow, I can slide in 9/16 metal rod to add another 3 inches and also reinforcing at the same time. It's rated to hold 44 lbs when mounted into a stud which is double of what I need. And another thing I like about this hanger is the way it is locked in place by the way of a lock screw into the tubing.
 
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