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Foley-Belsaw Planer Molder from 220 to 110V??

6K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  cynrich 
#1 ·
I have my dad's Planer which is designed for a 220 outlet, which I can not make happen, not having any more room in my small 60amp house panel. Is there any chance I could change the motor or something and make it work on 110?
Otherwise, would selling it make me enough to buy a benchtop 110v planer for my small hobby shop?
 
#3 ·
You can free up a 220 circuit if you install a couple of tandem circuit breakers on 2 110 legs. You will have to see if your panel will accept the breakers before buying them.

What this does is allow you to double up for 110 in the same space as the regular 110 single pole breaker. The tandem breaker is the same size as a regular 110 breaker but it will accept two separate runs. By installing two of these, it will free up a space for a double pole 220 breaker. If you aren't familiar with electricity you probably should have someone that is do this.

I had one those molder/planers but don't remember if it can be changed to a 110. It will cost you more running it on a 110 than a 220 as that machine does draw some pretty good amps.
 
#8 ·
I'm pretty sure I don't have any room on the panel at all. I went through electrical issues early on the renovation here. I had an electrician come in and he wouldn't touch the meter, so now I can't do anything new until the trailer park replaces them, which they are probably not in any hurry to do.
 
#4 ·
Unless you're keeping it for sentimental reasons or really need the molder capabilities of this planer then I would get a lunchbox planer that runs on 120v. I had the DeWalt 733 for about 20 years and when the motor finally quit I upgraded to the 735 and that's an impressive planer. There's also the 734 and that is a good planer, as well.

David
 
#5 ·
I have my dad's Planer which is designed for a 220 outlet, which I can not make happen, not having any more room in my small 60amp house panel. Is there any chance I could change the motor or something and make it work on 110?
Otherwise, would selling it make me enough to buy a benchtop 110v planer for my small hobby shop?
There should be a plate on the motor that says what voltage it can be wired to. It may be marked 110/220 where it list voltage. If it does say that it can be wired to 110v. Let us know the make and model of the motor. It may not be the original motor and each company has a different schematic on how to make the change.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I have that same planer, but mine's a Craftsman badged model made by Foley Belsaw. It has a 12.5" or 13" width capacity and I run a 3 HP 240 volt motor on it. It is a real workhorse and will plane up to 7" or 8" thick stock. I would do alI could to keep it it, even though I do have two other planers, a 13" Ryobi "lunch box" and a 15" Jet 3 HP. As Big Jim suggested you can replace a single 120 v breaker with a "doubler" and I have done exactly that. That will open up only one slot on the main panel, but you need two open slots. An Electrican will be able to do this wiring at about 1 hour's labor.
The advantage to this older planer are the rubber drive rollers which in good condition will drive better with less down pressure than stell ribbed ones, at least that's my experience with it. It's my "go to" thickness planer even though it sounds like a freight train when it's running with all the chain drives whirring around, I still use it. It has straight blades which I have learned how to remove and sharpen. A newer planer will cost agreat deal more than you can get for this, in my opinion, so it's worth putting a little money in electrical wiring and other odd parts.
A photo of the motor name plate would be helpful in determining the horse power and amperage requirements.
Chances are if it is presently wired for 240 volts, it has a 3 HP motor and that will not run on 120 Volts, so you are stuck running it on 240 volts.
 
#10 ·
..." A newer planer will cost a great deal more than you can get for this, in my opinion, so it's worth putting a little money in electrical wiring and other odd parts.
A photo of the motor nameplate would be helpful in determining the horsepower and amperage requirements.
Chances are if it is presently wired for 240 volts, it has a 3 HP motor and that will not run on 120 Volts, so you are stuck running it on 240 volts.
As I responded before, I can't increase any of my electrical until the landlord replaces my meter, but if that happens, I'll be on it like white on rice! As it is, I can barely run one power tool and my small shop vac, or a fan or the lights at the same time.
The planer at my brother's house now (half an hour away), he was going to have it restored just before the pandemic, it's still sitting there, so I don't have access right now to the nameplate, but I'll check it out when I can get up there. How can I know if I can use a smaller motor on it, one that can run on 110v?
 
#15 ·
I can't make out the brand of the breaker box. Some of them sell a thin breaker that will put two breakers in the slot where you have a single now. Then you may be able to have someone move the load on some of them to give you space for a 220V breaker. Circuit Breaker, Amps 20 A, Circuit Breaker Type Tandem, Number of Poles 1 You would just need a electrician to insure you don't overload the panel.
 
#16 ·
I can't make out the brand of the breaker box. Some of them sell a thin breaker that will put two breakers in the slot where you have a single now. Then you may be able to have someone move the load on some of them to give you space for a 220V breaker. Circuit Breaker, Amps 20 A, Circuit Breaker Type Tandem, Number of Poles 1 You would just need an electrician to ensure you don't overload the panel.
Thanks for that info. The electrician that came to look said he won't add anything to this panel. If I could get the landlord to replace the meter, he would put in a 100 amp box for $200. So I guess I just have to wait
 
#17 · (Edited)
There are at least three brands of breakers in that panel: Bryant is the 60 amp main, Cutler-Hammer, and Eaton. It looks like the Bryant (main) is a type “BAR”. The other two are type “BR”. There is a type “MP-T” breaker labeled as the water heater. The Bryant dryer breaker is type BR. The labels on the other breakers are covered.
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
re: your electrical panel. not all electrical panels will accept tandem circuit breakers. the panel model number needs to be researched for that capability.

imho that belsaw is such a nice unit, and worthy of 220vac. i've been looking for a nice one for years... that one has value!
you may be able to find a drop in replacement (frame number as Bill mentioned), if not, i would leave it alone until you can accomodate it electrically and appreciate it. its a workhorse.
 
#22 ·
I helped you on another motor problem, and will help you again here.

First question. Where is the panel located with respect to where you will be using the planer? Distance between?
2nd question. What is the brand and model number of the circuit breaker panel?
A comment - Just because there isn't enough room in the panel for more breakers, there are other ways to be able to hook up your planer, legally.

With the answers to the questions above, and a clear photo of the name plate on the planer's motor, I can very likely tell you, step by step, what needs to be done to use your planer.

I am an Electrical Engineer and Industrial Licensed Electrician.

Charley
 
#23 ·
I helped you on another motor problem, and will help you again here.

First question. Where is the panel located with respect to where you will be using the planer? Distance between?
2nd question. What is the brand and model number of the circuit breaker panel?
A comment - Just because there isn't enough room in the panel for more breakers, there are other ways to be able to hook up your planer, legally.

With the answers to the questions above, and a clear photo of the name plate on the planer's motor, I can very likely tell you, step by step, what needs to be done to use your planer.

I am an Electrical Engineer and Industrial Licensed Electrician.

Charley
Thanks for helping again Charley, all I can tell you right now is minimal--the panel is in the back end of my mobile home, perpendicular to the outside wall facing the shed, and about 10 feet from the shed where I would have the planer--it could be another ten feet if I put it on the left wall.

This is all the info I could find on the panel: Publication Font Electronic device Cemetery Number


I can't get to the planer right now, it's about 20 miles from here, but I'll try to get there by this weekend It's is a Foley-Belsaw 984 Planer molder--looks just like this one, but a bit rustier. Photo Index - Foley-Belsaw Co. - 984 12" planer/molder with rip saw attachment | VintageMachinery.org

further down on that page is a pic of the motor: Baldor 5HP 3450RPM single phase 230v 23A motor
 
#24 ·
I have had a Belsaw 910 for about 45 years and I would not trade it. I bought it new without a motor. It is a great machine. In my shop it is on a 25' extension cord. The machine is quite loud when planing wood. When the blades become dull it is much louder. Since you have it at another location I would suggest that you try running some boards through it before bringing it home. I have also lived in a mobile home park and many people don't like noise. There are still a lot of parts including the rubber rollers available from Belsaw.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Mine was also bought "new" without a motor, but it was a freaky way I got it. Based on an ad in the local paper, there was a "barrel stave" planer, a two cutter head machine with one head above and one below the table for sale down in the inner city of Detroit. So I called and got directions, but then there were additional directions as to how to get in behind the chain link fence. It was a "bad neighborhood" according to the seller, so I loaded my all black Suburban, brought my Browning .22 and my large black German Shepard and ventured down I-75 to the destination. Sure enough lots of run down houses, this was back in the late '70's or early '80's, so, no surprise. The barrel stave planer was in a one story wood framed warehouse and it was dark inside, but when I saw it it was a monster and way too heavy for my needs. BUT, over in the corner, in the dark, was the Foley Belsaw, no motor. "How much?" I asked. He said $300.00. I said "I'll take it." After getting it and myself out of the "hood", I got it safely home. I put a 3 HP Baldor motor on the triple sheave cutterhead pulley, only needing two belts, and it ran like a freight train making almost as much noise. The rollers are chain driven as is the height adjustment off the table, but it sure does a great job to this very day. I added a large rubber flap to contain the chips on the rear of the dust shield to improve the dust collection, but that was all I've ever done. It runs on a 3 wire rubber SJ conductor about 20 ft to a 20 AMP twist lock recepticle on a 20 AMP 240 volt breaker. I will disturb the neighbors if you use it outside of an enclosed shop or shed. The straight blades are noisier than the spiral or Helix head cutters and when they get dull, they "slap" the surface of the wood making a sharper noise than when they are sharp. In contrast, I have a Ryobi lunch box planer whose cutterhead spins at 3X the Foley Belsaws's and that makes a lot of noise also. So, there may not be a solution to the noise issue .... I donno?
 
#27 ·
I have had a Belsaw 910 for about 45 years and I would not trade it. I bought it new without a motor. It is a great machine. In my shop it is on a 25' extension cord. The machine is quite loud when planing wood. When the blades become dull it is much louder. Since you have it at another location I would suggest that you try running some boards through it before bringing it home. I have also lived in a mobile home park and many people don't like noise. There are still a lot of parts including the rubber rollers available from Belsaw.
I have also owned a 910 from the 80's until a few years ago when I moved and sold it. It was a great machine, however, I used to plane a lot of old oak and other hardwoods and at some point I switched from a 2hp motor to a 5hp. That helped a lot but you could never run a 5hp on 110V. As noted, it was as noisy as could be and I would be wary of using it in close proximity to other homes. I think in the end it may make more sense to get one of those lunchbox type planes although I would be interested in knowing whether they perform as well as the old Foley?
 
#30 ·
No comparison of a Foley and a lunch box The lunch box I consider to be a hobby planer (and yes I own one) compared to the Foley. Cant put molding blades in a lunch box. You want to make some noise set up the Foley with single blade and counter balances OMG Spend the money and buy the triple blade set if u are going to run molding. Never looked into spiral head because you cant do molding with those.
 
#32 ·
OK, it's a Bryant Panel, but your photo doesn't give me any hint about the size and ratings of it, how many circuit breakers and their sizes (electrical size) and if there is a main circuit breaker in it or outside where your mobil home is connected to the meter, etc. I'm trying to find out all of this and need to before I can help you. A few more photos showing these items would be helpful. Also, do you have an electric clothes dryer and/or electric stove in your mobile home?

Charley
 
#33 ·
OK, it's a Bryant Panel, but your photo doesn't give me any hint about the size and ratings of it, how many circuit breakers and their sizes (electrical size) and if there is a main circuit breaker in it or outside where your mobile home is connected to the meter, etc. I'm trying to find out all of this and need to before I can help you. A few more photos showing these items would be helpful. Also, do you have an electric clothes dryer and/or electric stove in your mobile home?

Charley
There was nothing in the way of other labels or information. It's said to be 60amp if I remember correctly, it's 60 of whatever they use to name them. The trailer was built in 1970.

The paper chart has the "20" or "15" of each breaker. The main is right in the upper right, there is a meter, but it has a lock on it, and it's in the back yard of my neighbor's neighbor's trailer with three others--#1-4.

I do have a dryer, but the plug for it is behind it, and not easy to get to and it's another 8 feet away from the shed.. The water heater is 220 as well, but I think it's hardwired, I'll see if I can spot an outlet for it. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful, but there is just no other info I can find.

I think I'm actually not going to try to fit it in here. I'd rather have the floor space for my other tools, and I can buy a bench planer if I really need one and maybe make a flip box to double the toolspace. I do have a number of hand planes, and even an electric one--though I'm not sure it still works. :unsure: I have a huge list of things to look at and fix up or replace. I did just pick up a 4" joInter at the flea market last week--it will work with the motor I have, so at least my edges can be flat!:giggle:
 
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