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Matt
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Hello,

We recently installed engineered wood flooring at home and are still in the process of putting down the thresholds. The threshold is between the wood floor and tile. The tile is a little shorter than the wood, by about 1/8".

There are 3 areas that need a threshold:
- Straight section by front door, only 1 piece required
- Long straight section by kitchen, 2 pieces required
- 5-segment section by fireplace

I'm having a tricky time with the long section. It required 2 pieces of molding because of the distance and I put a 45 degree miter joint between the two. I have been attaching the molding to the concrete subfloor. Because the holes in the concrete aren't perfect, there is a gap between the two pieces of molding at the 45 degree miter. I can press the two pieces back together, with little tension. Is there a good way to join these two pieces together? Would Liquid Nails work?

The next part is by the fireplace tile. It will be a 5-segment threshold. Can anyone recommend how to do this? I have thought about measuring and making on the tile-side where the threshold would be and then cutting based off of this 'inside' dimension. After that, the pieces could be joined together (Liquid Nails?), laid over the tile/wood and holes drilled into the concrete. I'm guessing there is a better way to do this and I'm not sure the liquid nails will work to join the pieces. Any ideas?

I have attached a drawing for illustration. Thank you for your time.
-Matt
 

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Old School
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WELCOME TO THE FORUM

There are many similarities in installing threshold, as in other long runs of trim like crown. For long runs single pieces are best if possible. If joints are necessary, scarf joints usually are used, and if necessary, the joint should be backed up if possible or shimmed to keep the parts in alignment.

For piecing the fireplace, an easy way to find the point of miter is to tape the transition, and draw a line on the tape (technically you'll be bisecting the angle). Set one piece of threshold up against the edge, allowing it to run past the angle. Mark the top and bottom edge for the miter. That will give the exact angle, and it will give the reference point where the transition takes place on the threshold.

For good connective joints, a glued half lap miter, or a glued splined miter would be applicable. A good construction adhesive should hold the pieces in place, shimmed if necessary. Drilling into the concrete is a last option, and can be plugged.










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Really underground garage
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Just some rambling here....may help?

On the FP hearth strip;generally you want to look at this so that your last cut/s are the "safest"(in the sense that its any easy to make cut...pers. safety is always important).So with that in mind,cut the fr pce first,then the short 45's where they join to fr.Leaving them long temporarily.....then work on short pce where it turn down the side.Then sides at 45 joint....ending with what should be "safe",easy to cut 90's.Theres more to it,but that would probably be my sequence.

Regarding "field" joints WRT long pcs,its best if they aren't in high traffic or highly visible places.....for obvious reasons.If its unavoidable and its gonna see high traffic....you'd probably be best served with some kind of mechanical joint reinforcement.Not being there to see,its subjective if that joint will hold-up?BW
 

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spline and glue your pcs together then install. thats for the long straight pc. i like to take both mitered pcs and cut a dado out of the bottom ( usually half the thicknes of the trim ) then glue a good fitting block. the nice thing about the block is it also becomes a clamping surface, also makes drawing your miters together.
around the hearth. cut your 3 pcs LONG. lay the the front pc down in place, measuring distance from the wall on both sides. throw a pc of tape to hold in place. then place your sides where you want them, where they overlap, mark with a pencil or whatever, and cut.
 
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