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Discussion Starter #1
Perhaps the one thing, as woodworkers, we all make is.........mistakes--especially this relative beginner.

I have several lengths of 1 X 3 wood (by 3/4" thickness) with a hole drilled near, but off its mark near the center of this (actual, as opposed to nominal) 2.5" width. The hole is drilled with a 1/4" bit, and it's "Fostnered" (i.e. I used a Fostner bit on either side around 3/4" in diameter) on either side of the aforementioned wood piece, about as deep as the height of a bolt head or nut.

The 1/4" hole is straight thru.

Long story short, I'd prefer not to remake the pieces with such errors as they form part of a larger glued up assembly--so I was thinking of using something like Minwax's Wood Hardener to completely seal up the wrong holes, and then redrill them once the repair has completely dried.

The work is invisible so I don't care how it looks...just that the repair is strong. This wood is invisible in the finished product/project.

Of course I'd try this first on a dummy piece of wood---but all this said. Questions:

Q1) Would you recommend another product for this repair, and maybe save the aforementioned product for wood rot over hole fillage?

(Since I'll be redrilling the correct hole nearby, something like wood putty, I fear, isn't the right product. The repair has to dry hard like the wood that use to be there.)

Q2) Would you be inclined to have me, rather than try to repair this, recreate the affected members "from the ground up?"

Q3) Having watched some youtube videos on this, including proper ventilation and correct ratios of product/hardener, have you any other thoughts?

Q4) How might you handle this--aside from not making the mistake in the first place! (LOL)

Again, so you have vision of the hole size, as you pass through the workpiece's thickness with "x-ray vision," invision a 3/4" dia. hole for about 1/4" and inch, a 1/4" diameter hole for about 1/2" an inch, and then, again, a 3/4" dia. hole for the remaining 1/4." Again, this hole is near the center, so there's plenty of existing wood "meat" between the hole and the sides of the workpiece for the amount of strength required here.

Thanks for your time and expertise!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
As I think about my own problem I am beginning to lean towards closing up the holes with two size wood dowels and wood glue.

Given the holes are uniform in size, dowels might be the better way to go--saving the epoxy for oddly shaped holes and gouges.

Should you feel differently, please say so.
 

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If it's not seen, I would be inclined to turn the board around so the hole isn't close to the correct hole. If that isn't possible then glue a dowel in the hole. We don't know the application though, perhaps it would be worth replacing the part if there is a lot of stress there.
 

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Yep, glue in a wood dowel, sand flush, redrill.

Maybe I missed it but did you use a drill press? With a fence?
Measure twice, drill once! :)
 

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I'll be kind here ...you d...

You didn't, did you? Start over. :|
You will have more time and effort in doweling the two sizes of holes on both sides of the board than if you just chalked it up to "new woodworker syndrom" and started from scratch.

Use a fence on your drill press set to the proper distance. Make a few test samples before starting on the finished pieces. :smile3:
 

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here's the problem with the dowels

Mistakes are a good thing. When you can learn to hide your mistakes you can call yourself a master craftsman.
Dowels are end grain, the boards are long grain. To accurately drill a slightly offset hole into different grains will be an issue. Then the end grain will drill at a different rate than the long grain... it just ain't worth the hassle.

Hiding a mistake is one thing, if you can do it easily and without running into other unforeseen issues, and I've made my share of mistakes and fixed them. Some were self inflicted, other were of natural causes where the wood had a mind of it's own and split unexpectedly like in this chisel storage rack. The repair was invisible:

 

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Dowels are end grain, the boards are long grain. To accurately drill a slightly offset hole into different grains will be an issue. Then the end grain will drill at a different rate than the long grain... it just ain't worth the hassle.

Hiding a mistake is one thing, if you can do it easily and without running into other unforeseen issues, and I've made my share of mistakes and fixed them. Some were self inflicted, other were of natural causes where the wood had a mind of it's own and split unexpectedly like in this chisel storage rack. The repair was invisible:

The op said the patch wouldn't show. I think if a dowel was glued in and allowed to dry another hole could be drilled right next to it without an issue. Like I said earlier we don't know what the hole is for and how much stress it would be under so it wouldn't be possible to say for sure a fix was feasible.
 

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I hope he does try the dowels

The op said the patch wouldn't show. I think if a dowel was glued in and allowed to dry another hole could be drilled right next to it without an issue. Like I said earlier we don't know what the hole is for and how much stress it would be under so it wouldn't be possible to say for sure a fix was feasible.
On each board there will be 3 holes in two different sizes to plug:
I have several lengths of 1 X 3 wood (by 3/4" thickness) with a hole drilled near, but off its mark near the center of this (actual, as opposed to nominal) 2.5" width. The hole is drilled with a 1/4" bit, and it's "Fostnered" (i.e. I used a Fostner bit on either side around 3/4" in diameter) on either side of the aforementioned wood piece, about as deep as the height of a bolt head or nut.

The 1/4" hole is straight thru.

So, there are 3 chances on each board for the bit to wander or have an issue. Good luck with all that. :frown2:





 

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I just had to fill two holes today. Different reason, hanging a door and the old holes didn't match up to the hinge I was using. Filled the hole with glue then filled it with toothpicks and broke them off flush. Works great ever time if it's something you'll never see.
 

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As I think about my own problem I am beginning to lean towards closing up the holes with two size wood dowels and wood glue.

Given the holes are uniform in size, dowels might be the better way to go--saving the epoxy for oddly shaped holes and gouges.

Should you feel differently, please say so.
I see no reason to use two sizes of dowels.
I would drill through with the larger hole and fill with a wood dowel.
 
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Mistakes are a good thing. When you can learn to hide your mistakes you can call yourself a master craftsman.
I love this saying so, so much, just because of how true it is. It takes a lot more raw skill to hide a mistake, or even better turn a defect into a feature, than it does to 'not make a mistake'. I say that in quotes because theres never a project that doesnt have a mistake.

Of course, that last mindset is why i intentionally include a mistake in everything i make. If i know where the one mistake is, i dont make any more!
 

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Did we ever find out if the boards were 1"by 3" or 1' by 3'. Expensive wood or cheap wood.

Big difference in repairing or starting over.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thank you to everyone who offered their ideas. Toolman50: I'd like to offer you particular thanks for offering the simple but yet ingenious insight of simply drilling the affected holes straight through with a 3/4" bit, and then filling them once, with 3/4" glued in dowel material.

While I don't wish to bore people with the details, I will try to fill in the holes (at least with my explanations) below.

I saw this table on the internet, and without attempting to violate anyone's creative revenue, sought to recreate it. For me, much of the love of woodworking lies in mechanical projects that incorporate math. I don't sell my work (as if!!) and I am sure my product so deviates from this, which I attempted to recreate without blueprints, that no patents (if they even exist) were violated.


Okay, with that video seen by you, I concluded that the mechanics of my version--otherwise hidden from the table consumer's (i.e. my) view, would involve 8 lengths of (actual size) 3/4" thick, by 2.5" wide good quality wood, arranged in a star. Please see the picture. This would be time consuming to recreate--hence my desire to fix my mistakes, rather than rebuild from the ground up.

As is clear from my picture, many of the aforementioned holes, which lie at the end of each of the eight lengths, aren't centered as a result of "Stupid deliberance" on my part, to get them to line up with misaligned pegs that protrude from the Saturn like ring, (also shown) that rotates around the project's perimeter.

Should I have had the patience to do everything right the first time? Guilty!

For the terminally curious, at the end of the 8 lengths, the aforementioned holes connects with an arm (I've left only 1 arm still attached in the photo) with a length of 3/4" wide material removed from its center, that rides on these pegs, to allow the table's expanding leaves to emerge as the Saturn ring is rotated.

At the time I was inexperienced, lacking tools like a drill press where accurate hole placement and depth could be controlled and repeated, and most of all I was inpatient. I wanted to finish this project--which I will term a discovery build--and revisit it (what I am doing now) to fix my problems at some point in the future (i.e. now).

Of course the misplaced pegs and holes created unequally sized table leaves as the errors telescoped their way out from the center. Done correctly the leaves are 8 equally sized slices of a ring.

Today I own a large woodworking compass, and the knowledge from videos like this to find 8 equidistant places along a circle's perimeter.


..so, I will fill the holes in question, which are right now 3/4" wide in diameter for 1/4"depth, 3/8" wide for 1/4" depth, and 3/4" wide for 1/4"depth, redrill, reposition the pegs, recreate the arms and table leaves, and make this project right. This seemingly weird drilling pattern I just described was necessary so no nuts would protrude from the 3/4" thickness of each of the eight 3/4" X 2.5" points of the star.

Again, thanks....
 

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where's my table saw?
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try drilling in the end of a dowel

If you don't own a drill press and a means to secure the board on the table, you will have issues drilling a slightly off center hole. Birch dowels are end grain and won't drill easily. The issue is also what drill to use. A Forstner drill can not have a predrilled center hole. It needs the point on the end to start it in the proper location. If you drill the 3/4" hole first on one side how do you locate the 3/4" hole on the other side accurately without a small pilot hole OR the jig on the drill press?
If you just flip the board end for end and fill the holes with anything for appearances sake, then you will be better off. JMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
woodnthings: thanks....FWIW I HAVE acquired a drill press since this was originally created with a hand drill, and, of course, intend on using it this time around.

Sure--the inferior woodworker might blame his tools, but the worker of pretty much any skill level stands to do better with the right tools, jigs, prep, thought, planning, etc.

Again---stupid I admit---I made the conscience choice at the time to drill the holes off center to match the off center pegs. Conventional wisdom would have had me redo the pegs...or metaphorically first aligning the vehicle's chasis (pegs) after the "accident" before attempting to fix the car by "bending the new car doors to get them to line up."
 

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Arbee,
Thanks for the attached video. A great project and (Nice model).
I have seen other expanding tables but none like in the picture.
This is a very advanced project requiring exact fit to work properly.
A finished table like this might sell for several thousand dollars depending on size and type of wood.
If you are attempting your project without a purchased plan, you are braver than I am.
Please keep us posted on your progress.
I think you should attach the video to another post labeled expanding table so we can find it.
We won't remember to look under fixing misdrilled holes several months from now.
Good luck to you.
 
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