Are your deck boards nailed or screwed down? I tore down a deck I built and the screwed down deck boards were rather easy to remove. Boy did I have a lot of stainless steel screws when I was done!
Fixing Deck
First wood deck I ever had . 15 yrs on a PT wood deck with only a scant few replacement boards.
Every 2 yrs get fresh SW paint.
More than a few boards are bad and some railing and stair steps.
So how far should I go .
Rebuild the whole thing or replace all flooring or just the bad sections and elsewhere.
Been tapping around with a #2 mallet ..most of it seems ok.
Every 2 yrs get fresh SW paint.
More than a few boards are bad and some railing and stair steps.
So how far should I go .
Rebuild the whole thing or replace all flooring or just the bad sections and elsewhere.
Been tapping around with a #2 mallet ..most of it seems ok.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Pressure treated often looks bad but the age is only 1/4" deep or less. It's like if you could remove the boards and send them through a planer it would be new wood again. I've got a wood bridge I built 30 years ago and if you went by the appearance it would be unsafe to walk on but I often drive a 3/4 ton van over it. If it's just surface cracks you might get some expandable caulk and work it into the cracks with a broadknife. Then let it sit for a short time and wipe off the excess with a wet rag. Then it would be ready to paint. If some of it has structural issues then replace that wood.First wood deck I ever had . 15 yrs on a PT wood deck with only a scant few replacement boards.
Every 2 yrs get fresh SW paint.
More than a few boards are bad and some railing and stair steps.
So how far should I go .
Rebuild the whole thing or replace all flooring or just the bad sections and elsewhere.
Been tapping around with a #2 mallet ..most of it seems ok.
ScrewedAre your deck boards nailed or screwed down? I tore down a deck I built and the screwed down deck boards were rather easy to remove. Boy did I have a lot of stainless steel screws when I was done!
The ones that are close to an exposed end grain you could go through and will be replaced..Pressure treated often looks bad but the age is only 1/4" deep or less. It's like if you could remove the boards and send them through a planer it would be new wood again. I've got a wood bridge I built 30 years ago and if you went by the appearance it would be unsafe to walk on but I often drive a 3/4 ton van over it. If it's just surface cracks you might get some expandable caulk and work it into the cracks with a broadknife. Then let it sit for a short time and wipe off the excess with a wet rag. Then it would be ready to paint. If some of it has structural issues then replace that wood.
Plenty of others just look like tiny long cracks.
Expandable caulk I'll try it.
Another 3 weeks before warm weather and I'll get to it , thanks.
The most obvious solution would be to spackle and sand the cracks but with wood movement cracks would develop between the wood and spackle and the spackle would start coming out. The expandable caulk should stay there since it will move with the wood.The ones that are close to an exposed end grain you could go through and will be replaced..
Plenty of others just look like tiny long cracks.
Expandable caulk I'll try it.
Another 3 weeks before warm weather and I'll get to it , thanks.
An important step especially if the deck is close to the ground is to unscrew some of the decking and inspect the joists. I recently got rid of a deck on my house that had a few bad boards on top of it. Upon pulling them up I discovered the joists were rotting from the top down. Would have lasted if the builder had put the waterproofing tape on top of them before laying on the decking.
When ai re did mine I salvaged everything that wasn’t cracked or bowed and used it for my spindles, etc. nothing really went to waste. This round I used deck screws and pressure wash yearly. I dug 12x12x36” concrete holes and now support the deck on anchors. I took a belt sander and smoothed the whole deck. Each year I spend a few hours tightening everything. Even the top 1x3’s are screwed down..
Planer blades weren’t happy, but not much waste..
Planer blades weren’t happy, but not much waste..
I can walk under a lot of it . It wraps around part of the back of the house going from a sidewalk at ground level to full exposure(more like a balcony deck)...leading to a full set of stairs.
6X6 columns with 2X10 joists.
I'll be looking them over good. Never thought about tape ..have to see if I have it.
6X6 columns with 2X10 joists.
I'll be looking them over good. Never thought about tape ..have to see if I have it.
I can't believe you would even suggest using Spackle since it's not waterproof:The most obvious solution would be to spackle and sand the cracks but with wood movement cracks would develop between the wood and spackle and the spackle would start coming out. The expandable caulk should stay there since it will move with the wood.
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waterprooftalk.com
Bondo won't work either, it's water resistant but not 100% waterproof:
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wheelsnerd.com
They make exterior sparkle.. can’t remember which one we used, but we ipused it on damage painted asbestos siding.
There is spackle which is waterproof. Anyway like I said in the post the wood would crack open more and the spackle would fall out. It's why I recommended stretchable caulk.I can't believe you would even suggest using Spackle since it's not waterproof:
The only crack filler I've used on decks is a mix if sawdust for color and two part epoxy,Loading…
waterprooftalk.com
Bondo won't work either, it's water resistant but not 100% waterproof:
I use Duraglas when making auto body repairs especially on the rockers where it's subjected to abrasion and moisture.Loading…
wheelsnerd.com
How much are you willing to put into it? If the decking is pretty shot and your framing is good I would slap a new deck and railing on it. As long as you have 16" or less centers I would use a composite like Trex. There are so many cool options out there for product and mounting. under mount, clip mount where you never see a scree etc. If not, replace what you tot to replace. Depends on your drive and your current pocketbook.First wood deck I ever had . 15 yrs on a PT wood deck with only a scant few replacement boards.
Every 2 yrs get fresh SW paint.
More than a few boards are bad and some railing and stair steps.
So how far should I go .
Rebuild the whole thing or replace all flooring or just the bad sections and elsewhere.
Been tapping around with a #2 mallet ..most of it seems ok.
I can walk under a lot of it . It wraps around part of the back of the house going from a sidewalk at ground level to full exposure(more like a balcony deck)...leading to a full set of stairs.
6X6 columns with 2X10 joists.
I'll be looking them over good. Never thought about tape ..have to see if I have it.
Search Results for deck joist tape at The Home Depot
Search Results for deck joist tape at The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com
You may need to pressure wash it and set a good look at what you have.
I'll price out repairing or replacing once I go over it good and see what's what.How much are you willing to put into it? If the decking is pretty shot and your framing is good I would slap a new deck and railing on it. As long as you have 16" or less centers I would use a composite like Trex. There are so many cool options out there for product and mounting. under mount, clip mount where you never see a scree etc. If not, replace what you tot to replace. Depends on your drive and your current pocketbook.
What I payed for 2x10’s the other spray, repairing sounds good to me..
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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