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so I've done the first coat and I'm not really impressed.

how long does it take to dry before I use another coat and can i mix it with teak oil in the next coat? so far, it is just straight BLO.

Are you planning any type of finish topcoat over the BLO at all? (i.e. poly etc.)
 

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What do you mean by Teak Oil? Most teak oil is just an oil/varnish mixture made with a small amount of varnish mixed with some BLO and/or Tung Oil.

What are you finishing and how will it be used. What are you looking for by using an oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
they are a pair of cherry wall hanging shelves. customer wants them as matte as possible and I just didn't want to deal with poly.

i was thinking of using watco teak oil as I like how it penetrates. so far, the BLO doesn't seem to get in to deep.

if teak oil is basically blo with other stuff then can i go over the first coat of blo with the teak oil?
 

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they are a pair of cherry wall hanging shelves. customer wants them as matte as possible and I just didn't want to deal with poly.

i was thinking of using watco teak oil as I like how it penetrates. so far, the BLO doesn't seem to get in to deep.

if teak oil is basically blo with other stuff then can i go over the first coat of blo with the teak oil?
First let me confess that I am a total novice when it comes to finishing. But in the last couple of weeks or so I have been experimenting with BLO for the first time. I did not like the results I was getting either after 2 to 4 coats. My process was to wipe on, let it set for 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, allow to dry overnight, and lightly sand with 320 between coats. I was experimenting on scraps of wood in advance of a larger project I will be doing shortly.

What I ended up trying on the suggestion of someone on this forum was to gently rub/massage the 2nd and 3rd coats in with 0000 steel wool. I cannot speak to the correctness or incorrectness of this approach. I just did it becasue someone said it worked for them and I was curious to see how it would turn out. I tried it on a clean peice of scrap and it made a huge difference for me at least. It took me three coats to get a very smooth, even matte finish.

Hope that helps
 

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>>>> i was thinking of using watco teak oil as I like how it penetrates.

Yes, the "teak oil" will tend to penetrate deeper than straight BLO because it has a high percentage of mineral spirits which thins the linseed and tung oil in the product. Of course, you could thin the BLO with mineral spirits. However, BLO is a very poor finish. You will get more durability using the "teak oil".
 

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Lest anyone take me last post in jest ... I was once refinishing a family heirloom ... a very old piece. I had the finish stripped, and set the piece on a bench temporarily. Later that day, I detected the stench of old linseed oil and searched to find the source. It seem once the sun moved and the just stripped piece was exposed to it, the linseed oil began rising to the surface and started oozing from the pores. I don't know how many times I washed that thing down with solvents to get rid of that crap, but it just kept coming to the surface.

From that day forward, I have never used BLO in any way on my projects, and I don't even allow it in my shop.
 

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>>>> i was thinking of using watco teak oil as I like how it penetrates.

Yes, the "teak oil" will tend to penetrate deeper than straight BLO because it has a high percentage of mineral spirits which thins the linseed and tung oil in the product. Of course, you could thin the BLO with mineral spirits. However, BLO is a very poor finish. You will get more durability using the "teak oil".
Watco msds, does not list any tung oil in the finish, only linseed oil, 40% VMP naptha, 15% mineral spirits, 5% aromatic hydorcarbons. it is no better than any other diluted linseed oil application. It does list a proprietary "resin" but that would most likely be urethane or alkyd, not an oil.
 
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