Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first attempt at a woodworking. Instead of making a simple shelf, I decided on duplicating this workshop hutch like the one Norm did on the NYW. Almost everything is done with the exception of a few trims and the biggest thing, the drawers. I am starting to get frustrated. I don't know where to begin with the drawers, where to cross-cut the panels and the dimensions to make them.

The slides need 1/2 inch per side. The cabinet dimensions are 30 1/4 in high and 36 14/16 wide. I want to build two big drawers and a small one in each side. I started cutting the sides of the top drawer and they are 5 in high. That's where I'm stuck. It is extremely hard to work in a place that is full of stuff. I can hardly walk without stepping on something. I want to finish this so I can start organizing the shop. Any help on how to continue tackling this? I spent about 2 hours today making test dovetail joints so as to not screw up the actual project. Thanks.

I am thinking it would be easier to cross-cut the panels using my Porter Cable 314 trim saw and a guide. Any suggestions?:huh:



IMG_1853.jpg
IMG_1856.jpg
IMG_1857.jpg
IMG_1860.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
flyboylr45

Your doing real good so far. You can be proud of yourself. Don't quit on yourself now. Making drawers isn't hard to do at all you just need to know how to go about it and it's a piece of cake. If you have to, stop working and get a book telling you how to do drawers before you cut anymore wood.
Let us see how you make out when your finished. Good Luck:thumbsup:,:yes: Mitch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,276 Posts
I vote with Mitch. You've done really well so far.Don't get flustered. Sometimes, when I hit a bad patch, I just step back for a while to let my thoughts collect themselves together. It usually works, and then, when I feel I'm ready to get back on it, I do. Also, don't get too hung up on dovetials if you're not sure that you're ready. There are simpler joints that are also very strong.

Good Luck with the project.

Gerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys:thumbsup: . I got a question about dovetails. Does the dado that holds the bottom of the drawer go through the dovetails? I am planning on using thru dovetails. Any suggestions?

What other joints would be as strong and not as complicated? It doesn't have to look pretty, its just for the workshop. I planned on using dovetails to start practicing before I use them on furniture for the house. Thanks.

My dovetail jig is the porter cable 4212. Any other joints that can be done with this jig that you would recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,276 Posts
A simple way to join the sides to the back is to dado the two sides to accept the back, and dado the back and sides to accept the bottom. You can do pretty much the same on the front, except the front will be edge dadoed to accept the sides, and also dadoed to accept the bottom. Not as ellegant as dovetails, but if well glued and secured with screws, it is certainly strong enough for shop use.

Gerry
 

·
johnep
Joined
·
2,140 Posts
frustrated

rare to see a proper joint in UK these days. Most furniture made using blocks or cam bolts.
johnep
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Drawer box joints

Dove tails are nice and expected on high end firniture. For all shop use, kitchen and bedroom furniture, I use a drawer lock joint done with a router and router table. It is quick, strong and attractive to look at. It's construction also allows the drawer bottom dados to go through on all 4 pieces but conceals them when assembled, no stop dados required. I prefer to use ½" baltic birch plywood on the drawer box as it has no voids between the plys like normal plywood. It has the strength of plywood and isn't prone to swelling like solid wood. You can see an example of the joint in use on my website www.crookedlittletree.com and the tool is available from rockler.com, their item #22637. This particular bit puts the joint on the sides rather than on a corner so is more forgiving in it's use. I use this bit so often that it is permanently mounted in a router and the only adjustment required is the depth of the router table fence. Once the boxes are together all you need do is apply the face and slides and you are done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Your woodworking space

Is this garage now dedicated to woodworking? If so, I have a few suggestions for you. That is a great saw you have there by the way.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks!! Yes, this garage is now for woodworking ONLY:thumbsup: Bring on the suggestions. I can't wait to clean this place up and organize my tools. I finished the drawers flinally and did the half blind dovetails. No the problem I have is that the the first drawer I installed fit fine when open, but when I tried to close it it was very hard and it felt tight and it was impossible to close. I left the project there and will try solving it tomorrow. Any suggestions?

EDP= Thanks, I'm having lots of fun with the saw.:yes: Bring on all the suggestions you got. thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
WHat kind of guides are you using? How are the guides attached? Some pictures of the drawer and the guides in the hole might help.

My first thougth is that the guides are closer together in the back than the front which would make them hard to close. Maybe they're not level or square to the front of the cabinet which would also cause trouble.

Just thinking out loud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually that's the problem. The guides are closer together towards the back than in the front. I'll post pictures when I get back from this trip on Monday. I was thinking that I could maybe sand where the guide sits and that would increase the spacing. Just a thought. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Actually that's the problem. The guides are closer together towards the back than in the front. I'll post pictures when I get back from this trip on Monday. I was thinking that I could maybe sand where the guide sits and that would increase the spacing. Just a thought. Thanks
Sanding was the first thing I was thinking of also.
The other thing that came to mind is to insert some very thin shims, but since your problem is that it is too narrow in the back (not too wide in the front), then I guess that will not help you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Drawer problem

You are going to need to verify your opening width from front to back. If you do indeed find that your opening is narrower in the back (seems to be the most likely culprit) you are going to need a few adjustments. First, you will need to make a rabbit cut on the outside of the drawer box to reduce your overall size to accomodate the smaller dimension. I would make a cut on each side to split the variance and reduce the appearance of a jury rig. Then you will need to use flat washers between the sidewalls and the slides. No washer in the back, 1 washer in the middle and two washers in the front. Or, no screws or washers in the middle and 1 washer in the front. Good luck.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was just thinking. Would it be possible to use an electric 3 1/4 in hand planer and just plane away untill it fits? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Drawer dilemna

Keep in mind that it is probably not the drawer that is out of dimension (Is IT?). Planing away at the drawer will only make the situation worse. Before you go chopping away at the wood, carefully identify where the problem is.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was thinking of planing away at the cabinet not the drawer!?:eek: What do you think. I will definetly get the measurements when I get back from this trip. Thanks
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top